Kadee Couplers on MTH premier streamlined passenger cars

DougC posted:

I am considering mounting Kadee Couplers on a set of recent MTH  premier streamlined passenger cars.  It looks like the ones I have already have holes in the floor to mount them.  Has anybody done this?  Which Kadee coupler did you use and what modifications did you have to make to the existing MTH wheelset?  I really don't want to have to cut the exsting coupler off.  Can it be saved?

Thanks,

Doug

Have you visited the 3RS (3 Rail SCALE) Forum and reviewed some of the instructional "stickies" at the top of the forum?

There is a video produced by Eric's Trains on converting MTH Premier freight cars to KD's on one of these forums 3rail scale or 027.  Kinda old, and involved.  If I recall correctly he did not cut the old coupler off, only took it apart and saved the old iron for another day.  Built a shim, Etc. Used 806's.           Maybe a little help?

Tommy

Maybe, in some idyllic day, all manufacturers will make it easy as pie to choose to do away with claws and use Kadees. But we're not there yet.

If you want to use scale couplers, ask yourself why the reluctance to do whatever it takes to get rid of the claws?

You think you will ever "go back" to claws? How many of us have ever done so?

Worried about re-sale value? What hard evidence is there re-sale value is adversely affected, other than hear say and fearful "well, it might be?" I guess it "might," but it just "might" actually INCREASE resale value too.

It's a personal decision, but I have no hesitation in getting rid of the claws entirely. Often that means the best and easiest way is to Dremel them off. I personally have no intenstion of "going back" and I am not overly concerned with re-sale value either.

My MTH premier pass. cars are Kadee'd. "Going back" would be a costly business . . . but why in heck would I do that??

I agree with Terry on most points and a qualified agreement on one other point.

If you have already decided you prefer the scale Kadee couplers, you should get into practice of installing them. Since the beginning of Kadee, scale hobbyists have made it part of their regimen -- especially in HO scale during the horrid time of X2F horn-hook couplers.

I think it was Jack Wheelihan (hot water) who said he has got the conversion process down to 10 minutes per car. He may have shims already standing by for conversions, but regardless the process becomes routine.

As to why manufacturers haven't uniformly created mounting holes and cast-in top frames for Kadee couplers, I'm guessing it because they are reluctant to retool older pieces. But that doesn't explain newer models.

As for cutting off the traditional couplers, I think Terry is right. If you decided you prefer scale couplers, it shouldn't matter to you.

However, on the issue of resale, if that is your concern, I would set aside the argument entirely. I like the traditional couplers, as do most others, so I wouldn't consider buying converted cars. That could affect market value as a whole. But, frankly, it's time to stop thinking about resale value anyway, especially for non-Lionel cars.

My claws get cut off and go in the trash. Im not going back to claws, nor am I worried about re-selling my stuff. I buy and build it for me. If I sell it, the buyer knows going in that they are Kadee only.

Having a conversion car is a simple solution, although the 805 coupler with couple with most 3 rail claws. 

Thanks for all of the input.  I took one MTH car apart and can see I will have to dremel the coupler off.  I am going to start with an older set that I don't have huge investment in.  Might even increase the value.  I saw a thread on one of the forums that a guy used the long shank coupler.  Apparently the spacing remains about the same as with the OEM couplers.  I might try to mount the couplers back from the edge of the car to try to close the spacing a little.

I have used the Kadee 746 long shank on the new Lionel 21" passenger cars.  They worked fine as I needed to increase the spacing a little to get them to go around my O-60 curves without rubbing.  Lionel has made the couplers removable on the 21" cars and even predrilled and threaded the holes for mounting the Kadee pad. 

Yes, I did use long shanks on my MTH cars. OTRW I was getting near derailments on O-72 curves due to the diaphrams rubbing.  . . .

Except for the obs. car . . . it got a standard shank.

You can make the gap as big or small as you want. Use standard or long shank couplers, and mount the coupler close to the end or further back. Thats the best part about the customizing... you build it the way you want it, nothing else matters.