Kitbashing - Joining die cast

J-B Weld.

I am not certain this would or would not work for you since I don't have photos, etc., to go by.  I use Loctite Epoxy Repair Putty stick on diecast repairs - I do a lot of bashing of diecast/'Streets cars and of locos, having converted several small Moguls and such.  It has worked well where I can position a gob of it and make a place to them insert screws to screw it in place.

x2

 

If it's metal to metal, J-B is the best choice.

I agree about j b weld. I have used it on metal parts and it works great. I read about j b weld on this forum. Lots of great information from it.

Glenn

I just repaired a pilot on a Reading T1 with JB-Weld, it's the right choice IMO for diecast repairs.  It's plenty strong, and you can also file, sand, and paint it after the repair.

 

I'm restoring a Hudson 700E and I used JB-Weld on the boiler and chassis and it's 

working great no problems so far.

 

Tin 

I use any good 2 part epoxy.....and JB Weld is a good epoxy.

I have done this more than once, on die-cast and brass steamers, and I will repeat

the above: J-B Weld (or equivalent - I've used house brands) PLUS:

 

I cut flat brass (typically) joiners to embed in the epoxy for added strength - I find this

a requirement, actually.

 

First I join the boiler sections with a bit of epoxy and let cure

overnight. Next morning I check for proper alignment (if there's a goof, I can separate it easily). If not, I attach the brass joining strips/plates with epoxy underneath and let

cure overnight, again. Next morning, I double-check alignment, then slather the brass with more epoxy on top. The joiners tend to be 1.5 to 2 inches long.