Layout entry point - hinged/removable sections

I guess the question is how wide are you? Less than 18" is pretty narrow for basically walking sideways for what looks like to be 6' or so. Even if you can fit it is really easy to snag clothes on scenery or whack things with your arms regardless of how careful you are. I had a 16" access aisle once and that's what I did a lot.

Since you will need to go in and out sideways, if you do a hinged section it should be hinged up as down will take a few inches in width. Even better, would be a gate that swings out into the rest of your room.  A lift out could work, but you will literally have to twist to put the section back in and if its of any weight or awkward size (basically keep it small) and that is always a risk for a lower back injury. If you absolutely need to keep the narrow entrance, you can always sit on a castered chair and scoot yourself in and out.

Peter

Whatever you decide, I'd strongly encourage a wider access.  Having to squeeze in now will get old later.  Also, as much as you don't want to believe it, you will probably get bigger and it could become very difficult for you to squeeze through.  There are also visitors to consider and it could embarass someone who is too big to fit comfortably through the opening.

Gates are good but I really like a lift out section.  It only needs to be as wide as the right of way for both tracks.  It keeps the weight and bulk down and should be pretty easy to handle.  This approach also allows you to get fancy and substitute a staging yard module for the bridge if you want.

I also wanted to comment on the train room pictures.  Isn't it amazing how fast a flat surface becomes a storage shelf?   Nice benchwork, by the way.

I use a drop section on my little round-the-room 9x16 attic layout which is still in a raw stage. The drop section has been recycled and used for the second time from my large dismantled layouts. The span length is 26" and width[depth] 20". Clearance is only 22" since I have added bridge rails in an effort to sort of disguise it as a thru plate girder bridge[20" is about the minimun walk-thru space I suggest].

It is hinged on a piano hinge and secures on the "strike side" by adjustable keepers, to maintain even rail tops, which receive the spring-loaded catches or "strikes"[components like on your household doors except adjustable to align rail tops]. The piano hinge holds the section very rigid which enables stable rail alignment side to side and for rail tops. Parts to build it, as Jim Barrett illustrates, are easily available.

My "Dropgate" is installed on an end curve, just inside the room entrance, supporting a dual 072/084 mainline. Hopefully I can get a photo up.

I suggest viewing Jim Barrett's "Backshop DVD #11", available from OGR,which illustrates how to build and install both "Dropgates"and Lift Bridges. [an o-gauge aquaintance in Arizona built his layout in a back yard construction trailer and installed both a drop section [lower level tracks] and lift bridge[upper level]. The 7' trailer ceiling was the "stop" for the lift on his bridge. His entrance door opened outward of course,]. A lift bridge is a very viable alternative if used in the straight section.

Your photo does not show how much room you have on the "front" side of your entrance, you may have enough.....but you have plenty inside for this:

Why not put the removable section on legs like the rest of the layout, with casters on the legs? You can then roll it in or out depending upon you space.

It should be no problem to secure it to the layout when in place, unhook it and roll it when entering or leaving, and wires can be looped so you have room to move.

You could make it as wide as you wanted to, though you would have to watch for loose scenery items that may fall if moved much. I am sure you could figure out how to solve any problems using this method. I may use it this fall when I put up my Christmas garden, now that I have seen your plan. I like the "around the room" layout, just never put one in the shop over the holiday.

Greg

This same question was brought up over on the other forum concerning a lift out/ up section.
For a lift up to be anything less than aggravation it needs flanged bearings and a metal cross shaft not nuts and bolts . Nuts and bolts won't give you the precision you need so it'll line up every time. Line up is usually a V over V done by using angle iron
One piece on the stop for your lift up ,one piece on the lift up itself.
When they come together the two V's will lay the same way every time.

The frame should be heavy enough that you moving it won't knock it out of place and held together with screws and glue.
If the lift out is fairly wide/long a counter weight should be used for ease of use and to insure you don't knock it out of alignment trying to heft it.

A heavy duty momentary switch should be incorporated into the design so that when the lift up is in the up position it kills 10 feet of track on both sides of the lift up.
This is so when your wife comes into the room to talk to about something , the new topic won't be your thousand dollar engine laying in the floor.

The lift up can have power up and down if you desire . You can use something called a linear actuator (Google It) It's basically a motorized piston that extends out a certain amount and come in various sizes with load ratings up to ten thousand pounds.
A simple double pole double throw center off momentary switch will give you up and down operation.

I know this sounds like overkill to some but if you'll take the time to do it right now,
It'll pay off down the road.

David

Here is the Entrance to my Bellevue and Schenectady RR, 2 LLC Lift bridges on 3/4 inch oak supported upright by 2 storm door closers, blocks of track are insulated on each side when open they are off.

Would the closers be used to help lift it up?

As shown, they would help lower it. Don't closers do just that....close the door and pull in when extended?

Greg

I built a heavy-duty gate which is very easy to use. The other types were not user-friendly for me.

I have two entry points on my layout.

First is 30" wide and uses a "bascule" type of bridge.

Second is for a door to an outside patio and uses two simple 44" lift-out bridges.

 If you plan on having visitors inside your layout, I don't recommend an opening less than 30"...

Very impressive!

All of the spans that either lift up, drop down or are removable from the main permanent layout leaves me asking a few questions:

How does the track on the movable section connect to the permanent track? Is there no physical connection between the tracks? Do they simply perfectly align and yet have a miniscule "gap" between the adjacent rails?

Yes, there is a small gap. I wired mine on the hinged side. Mine opens like a gate.