Would anyone be interested in purchasing LED self adhesive light strips (12 lights) with the stepping resistor installed and 32 GA. lead wires? 
If so then we may start carrying them on our site. We are thinking $5.00 per strip which includes shipping in CONUS.
Dave, LBR
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Dave,
It sounds like one heck of a good idea. I must say that the price does seem fair to me. Have you decided on what colors and the length of the strips? I better go back to my corner now.
Stepping resistor? What about DC to power them?
Gee I thought they were Diodes!
hello Dave.............
if you can make the 12 LED light strips and they are 14, 17 and 20 inches long, peel and stick type tape to stick under the roof of the lionel, early MTH and K-line 15, 18 and 21 inch aluminum passenger cars. Make it a SIMPLE 2 wire hook up (one wire to the roller pick ups and one wire to the ground (frame or trucks). The LED lights should have a life of 1000 hours. Charge about 8 dollars per strip. Then you will sell a lot of them. I am interesting in doing that for my eight 15 inch aluminum cars.
Tiffany
What voltage would these operate ? AC or DC input?
I'm for that, I need to illuminate 2 aquarium cars of all things. Let us know when they are available. Thank You !
Are we talking about these that you get in 5 meter rolls? What is added to yours to provide for AC operation from track voltage?
Our strip lights are here at our "O STUFF" page
http://www.lbrenterprisesllc.com/-O--Stuff.html
on our web site. The strip is $7.00 USD ea. which includes shipping in CONUS. The strip is 14 inches long.
Dave, LBR
For an added few cents +1 vote from me for the rectifier. Sitting still they would be fine on AC... when in motion, the cars would drive me nuts.
hello Dave..............
I just sent a e-mail to you this morning about testing the led strip and "Santa Fe" decals. Thank you for the offer.
Tiffany
Dave, you will be competing with reels of 300 LEDs sold on eBay and Amazon for less than $3.
As to the competing: we really don't care who or what we are competing against. It isn't always about the money. 
As far as only one part of the process: Not so. All you have to do is solder two leads. Red to the center pick up and green to the other. Pretty simple. Right 
Dave, LBR
I converted all my passenger cars to LED light strips using Gunrunnerjohn's schematic diagram. He was extremely helpful, even where to buy the parts. So far I have converted 9 passenger cars, several cabeese, etc. Absolutely no flicker.
George (G3)
The bridge rectifier would be a good addition to double the frequency to 120hz, that will eliminate the visible flicker that some folks sense with half-wave operation. To kill the flicker, it also requires a decent sized capacitor.
Very helpful reply, grj. If I understand correctly, flicker can be: (a) the type of flicker some, but not all, folks can "see" when only 1/2 of AC current (?) is used; and (b) the type of flicker caused by dirty wheels, rails, etc. which is avoided with by use of a capacitor.
Correct, 60hz flicker is objectionable to some, though I confess I can't see it. The dirty track or switch crossing flicker I believe everyone can see. 
Both are resolved by sufficient bulk capacitance as long as you have DC to the strips.
I just ordered 2 strips to try out.
Hello Dave LBR and guys.....
Ijust received the package(LED strip) today from mail. It is well protected on piece of cardboard. I tested using my Z4000 setting at 12 volts then at 15(15 volts is needed to run the whole train)(Williams F-3 ABA and 8 Aluminum cars). I used my Lionel 15 inch Full Vista Dome car as a test car and mount it on the frame floor using blue tape then slided the frame back into the body. I turn on my Z4000 at 12 then at 15 but it is not as bright as it shows (brightness is less than the camera shows). The wires are red and green but needs to be gentle when handing it. The strip has the peel off tape on the back but it is wise to use the piece of plastic strip of same leigth and width to put the LED strip on the Plastic then use double side tape to mount it on the metal frame for safe measures of shorting it out. It would help if Dave can put plastic strip on bottom of the LED strip and use insulating wires instead to reduce the risk of wire touching the metal frame thus shorting it out as that would make it easier to handle it and installing in the passenger car. i think Dave is off a good start and would make small improvements to make it better and will have to charge little more, i am guessing a dollar more its not much and results is better made. i need more brightness in my cars, maybe using dual strips ? See the photos guys.
Nice report and photos, Tiffany.
An observation about the wire supplied. It's magnet wire, I believe, which uses clear insulation; you can't see the insulation, hence, the belief that the wire is not insulated--it is. I have one of Dave's strips, also, and have deliberately held both wires together while energized and there is no short.
Also, I have a car essentially identical to the one you have, as well as a standard dome, and I plan to attach the strip lighting to the ceilings of the domes. In other words, the dome interiors will be lit directly, instead of from below to avoid the loss of light caused by the translucent "floors" of the interiors.
Thanks, again, for the report and photos.
hello Dave...........
I believe this will help............
Tiffany
I got my strips today. I didn't have time to install them before I went to work but I took a piece of shrink tube and put a piece over the resistor. To make the install a little neater I took a length of 1/16 heat shrink and put both wires in it leaving an inch or two of wire to connect them. I'll put them in a couple of cars to see how they look.
Sounds like a reasonably priced item to me. I used these types of lights and they work fine in buildings. I have not tried them in passenger cars yet, but it sounds like a good idea.
I'm thinking of getting rid of the 4 watt lamps in my ceramic buildings and incorporating some of these.
I'm at work now I'll check out the link at home tonight.
I ordered a few to test, and here is my first application. I put the strip on the ceiling of the TCA full dome. I have bulb-type leds in the sockets. Now, I admit I am very fumble fingered. I like Chris's idea of putting a piece of shrink tubing on. I wish I had. In reinstalling I accidentally cut the two wires, about 1 in from the strip. It was a real bugger to get them re-soldered.
Now, though, I see I have to plan another project to improve the interior.
Photos with and without flash, and dome window close-up.
BANDOB,
Thank you for posting the photos we really appreciate it when customers do this. It really shows how great the light produced is. We may start putting the shrink on our strips. What are the thoughts about this. We would like to know before hand.
Dave, LBR
Dave,
I feel that insulated leads with heat shrink protecting the strip connections would be a very good idea.
Dave, I think the wires got cut when I was sliding the pieces of the car back together. Some protection is a good idea, but cost will always be an issue. I have many more cars to convert. LOL
Now that I know what to look for, I'll be more careful.
Thanks for the description and photos, Bill.
BANDOB,
Please check it our. We are discounting our light strips by10% just for the folks here at the OGR forum. When you order for the next 24 hrs. only we will discount your light strip order by 10%. Use code"OGR10" in the special instructions portion of the pay pal invoice and we will automatically refund 10% of the light strip order.
http://www.lbrenterprisesllc.com/-O--Stuff.html
A good opportunity to save even more on lighting up your passenger cars and buildings.
Dave, LBR
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