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I'm in the process of rebuilding a sizeable fleet of motive power, and I've got the motors, but I'm in a Quandary as to how to couple the motors to the shafts.

 

The original U joints were basket cases. A few of my dad's friends suggested using hose drives. I'm personally torn on what the correct option should be as I've had both success and failure to varying degrees. I'm kind of partial to a US Hobbies/KTM style coupler, but I'm at a loss at this point. Any help you could provide would be very much welcome.

 

Thanks much in advance,

 

Rob.

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Diamond Scale had universal joints, Plastic,  that worked well with their turntable drive.

US-1-21Single        Universal Fits 1/8" Shaft & 3/16" Shaft14.00
US-1-24Single Universal Fits 3/16"        Shaft & 1/4" Shaft14.00
US-1-25Single        Universal Fits 1/4" Shaft & 1/4" Shaft14.00



There is also a page of universal couplings in the Precision Scale catalog. Page 330 in the paper catalog  No. 3.1.   On line it shows as 297.

Last edited by Mike CT
Originally Posted by Mike CT:

Diamond Scale had universal joints, Plastic,  that worked well with their turntable drive.

US-1-21Single        Universal Fits 1/8" Shaft & 3/16" Shaft14.00
US-1-24Single Universal Fits 3/16"        Shaft & 1/4" Shaft14.00
US-1-25Single        Universal Fits 1/4" Shaft & 1/4" Shaft14.00



There is also a page of universal couplings in the Precision Scale catalog. Page 330 in the paper catalog  No. 3.1.   On line it shows as 297.

It appears the source for these U Joints is Stock Drive Parts (SDP). That is where I got mine. 

 

https://ogrforum.com/t...l-nyc-niagara-owners

 

Pete

Yeah, me too.  I use them between tender and locomotive for tender drive, where a hose is too much trouble.  Bulletproof - but make sure the shaft has a flat spot where you press the plastic part on.

 

Motor in the locomotive - if you use U joints, best to put a "traction master" on that gearbox, so there is no radial force on the U joint.

When the worm tries to rotate the axle, the axle in turn tries to rotate the gearbox.  This can be stopped in two ways - one, add a bar between the gearbox and the frame (source of noise), or two, make the worm shaft long enough that radial force is minimal, then absorb that force with a good rubber hose.  Solution 2 is quieter.

 

The Toyota hose is lots better than standard windshield wiper hose (and lots more expensive).

 

I call the bar a "traction master" after the hotrod product that would keep the rear leaf springs from assuming an "S" shape when drag racing.  Don't know if they actually improved traction - doubt it.

bob2 traction masters actually did improve the launch of a leaf sprung vehicles. my 69 427 camaro 4speed with 5:13 gears was impossible to launch without severe wheel hop. the addition of a set of lakewood traction bars made an amazing difference much to the chagrin of ford and mopar guys. the bar between the frame and gearbox was on many max gray locomotives and with the growling of an open frame motor it didn't add much to the soound level.

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