Lion Chief Loss of Power when crossing FASTTRACK GIRDER BRIDGE model number 81248.

Not familiar with the bridge or the power supply, but I would start by taking a voltmeter and testing for voltage on the track immediately before, after and on the bridge and that should get you started.

I think you can also take the bridge out of the layout, put the lighted caboose on it and, using jumpers, apply power to the track on the bridge and see if the lights come on.

Also, I'd flip the Fastrack sections around 180 degrees both before and after the bridge and re-connect, making sure all the connections are tight. It might just be a loose connection in the track.

Is it the same issue if the engines are facing either direction when running through the bridge? Is this the small 10" bridge or the large 30" truss bridge? The truss bridge has a lift out section that may have lost contact. If it's the small bridge, how is it supported and is there any flexing when the engines run across it?

George

It doesn't matter which way the engines are heading I have the same issue with one of my old 1970 engines using a old big amp Transformer. The bridge is the small one in testing it out I put the bridge on a flat service next to a power terminal track.

David

My volt meter took a dump got to get a new one.

Had 2 of them a few years ago and both had the same problem you described.  As you noticed, the two outside rails are insulated from one another.    Tried all the "pin bending" and "rail squeezing" that often improves continuity on Fastrack.  With the bridges out of the layout my meter showed open circuits on either the center rail or both outside rails.   Ended up throwing them out.

Majorconn,

Can you post a photo of the bottom of the bridge track section following on JFC454's reply?

Another thought not related: You have a 72 WATT  LionChief power supply which is 4 amps @18 volts DC. This should be sufficient for one good sized loop of track. So, you will test for DC voltage.

I think you are pushing it if you are powering 3 loops.

There must be something with the bridge track that is causing the no power condition.

Thanks for the feed back. I  tried running one of my old engines from the 70s with a 125w ac transformer had same results engine stopped half way across the bridge, My 3 loops are individually powered by 50w DC, 72w DC and 125w AC. I Wrote Lionel about the problem lets see what they say.

David

Majorconn posted:

Thanks for the feed back. I  tried running one of my old engines from the 70s with a 125w ac transformer had same results engine stopped half way across the bridge, My 3 loops are individually powered by 50w DC, 72w DC and 125w AC. I Wrote Lionel about the problem lets see what they say.

 

David

David,

I looked at the bridge at my hobby shop today. The rails are one piece in the deck and are direct end to end. There should be no loss of power. I did notice that the outside rails are not tied together like a FasTrack 10" straight.

Some simple voltage testing with power on or continuity testing with power off should identify where the connection issue located. Harbor Freight has deals on an expensive meter a lot.

Follow up on Bridge. The note I sent to Lionel tech support.

I took the bridge to my Local Hobby shop and had the technician check it out.  Attached bridge to two short Fasttrack  sections and checked  the rails with a meter and found no continuity on the power rail also checked out side rails and found loss of continuity. The tech used a pair of pliers to re crimp the rails to the pins after several attempts we were able to get continuity how ever after connecting and disconnecting the 5 inch Fasttrack sections we lost continuity. It appears the aluminum rails on the bridge will not hold a crimp which leads us to believe the problem is a manufacturing / design problem the aluminum rails are not as robust as the rails on stand alone fast track. I brought the bridge home and installed it in my layout and re-crimped the track to the pins. The first go around the train crossed the bridge but it slowed down at the end of the bridge and the lights flickered in all the coaches. I will return the bridge for a refund a very poor product.

David

Dave bend your center pin on the track instead of crimping the rail. I use to do that crimp the rail it would not hold up!!!  

chessie1971 posted:

Dave bend your center pin on the track instead of crimping the rail. I use to do that crimp the rail it would not hold up!!!  

Yes, demonstrated in the video from Mike Reagan I posted above.

Majorconn posted:

Follow up on Bridge. The note I sent to Lionel tech support.

 

I took the bridge to my Local Hobby shop and had the technician check it out.  Attached bridge to two short Fasttrack  sections and checked  the rails with a meter and found no continuity on the power rail also checked out side rails and found loss of continuity. The tech used a pair of pliers to re crimp the rails to the pins after several attempts we were able to get continuity how ever after connecting and disconnecting the 5 inch Fasttrack sections we lost continuity. It appears the aluminum rails on the bridge will not hold a crimp which leads us to believe the problem is a manufacturing / design problem the aluminum rails are not as robust as the rails on stand alone fast track. I brought the bridge home and installed it in my layout and re-crimped the track to the pins. The first go around the train crossed the bridge but it slowed down at the end of the bridge and the lights flickered in all the coaches. I will return the bridge for a refund a very poor product.

David

    

David,

Thanks for update. Not an insurmountable problem, but, it should work out of the box as intended. Things happen like the crimp machine settings being a little off these days when using contractors to build products.

RickO posted:

chessie1971 posted:

Dave bend your center pin on the track instead of crimping the rail. I use to do that crimp the rail it would not hold up!!!  

Yes, demonstrated in the video from Mike Reagan I posted above.

I seen that Rick and thought i would tell him also LOL

I seem to remember a thread not too long ago about the Polar Express Bridge. A lot of them were doing that also.

I would just solder the rails connecting to the bridge and be done with it.

Tried bending the pin that dosn't work on the bridge track the pins are very lose due to the track material.

The tracks on the bridge are aluminium can't solder. The pins are not making contact the hobby shop tec agrees with me poor design and sloppy manufacturing.

Well there is always the trick i used to use AA batteries in an old calculator, that had a custom power pack. Use an aluminum foil shim to fill the joint, you will need feeder wires at both ends, but worth a try. What is probably happening is the aluminum is being corroded by the steel, or copper/bronze rail, not a good idea from an electrical standpoint, re-crimping fixed it by removing the corrosion and contact resumes, rather foolish mistake if it is aluminum, steel has to be used with steel rails or wheels to avoid cathodic corrosion.