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Just clean them of any flash from casting, smooth out any bumps and imperfections using a hobby file and some 400 grit sandpaper. Wash liberally with soap and water and thoroughly dry. You can use a hair dryer to help ensure that it is dry. Gently use a tac cloth to remove any dust and particles hangers on. Work/paint in a clean dust free area where you can leave the piece sit. Place the part on a scrap of wood while painting so you can move it without touching the part if necessary.

 

I use Krylon or Rust-Oleum primers in spray cans typically grey color primer, available at most stores. For the 1835E black I use Krylon gloss black paint also available at most stores such as K-Mart. Lightly prime the inside or bottom first and allow to dry for several hours. Do the other side with primer and leave sit over night. When ready for final paint do the underside or inside first, light to medium coat, leave sit for an hour and give another coat. Allow to dry over night, resist the temptation to handle! Next day turn the piece over and do the other side same way and allow 24 hours to dry. Some like to bake the paint on, I never do as if you leave it sit for a few days the paint hardens plenty enough on its own and your not stinking up the house.

 

Gandy

 

 

    Since 1835s are satin black i would highly rec. using rustoleum or krylon satin black. Otherwise you will have shiny black parts on a dull black loco!You can always add gloss, but it is hard to take it away.

 

    If the headlight trim ring fits loosely dont worry, the added thickness of the paint will snug it up.

 

   If you are not using an MTH steam chest be sure to use nuts and bolts to secure the cross head guides. The other ones are soft cast and will crush while trying to peen the rivets on a press. The MTH is tapped for 4/40 screws which is nice. But it is much more expensive.

 

   Good luck and it will be worth the effort!

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