Marty the problem with the black box is the rocker on/off switch right? The other buttons and toggle switch are ok right. Just asking as in the old thread about this. Fred stated he wired a external toggle switch to turn the unit off/ on. I was thinking if I leave the rocker switch on the black box set to the on position I could turn it off/on with an inline switch placed in the cord of the wallwart. I am going to try to order the one john found.
Lionelzwl2012 posted:Marty the problem with the black box is the rocker on/off switch right? The other buttons and toggle switch are ok right. Just asking as in the old thread about this. Fred stated he wired a external toggle switch to turn the unit off/ on. I was thinking if I leave the rocker switch on the black box set to the on position I could turn it off/on with an inline switch placed in the cord of the wallwart. I am going to try to order the one john found.
It depends on the cause of the switch failures. Failure form over current. (Switch underrated) . ( Due to over current) Or some sort of mechinal failure from manufacturing or use. I highly suspect the first.
It comes down to whatever the seller wants for it. I picked up my second at York for $100.00 and was very happy to get it. The first one was $45.00 and I do not think the seller knew what he had. I got the wall power and all the parts with that.
I just want one to dissemble. To remove the power switch and find a correct replacement.
Shawn, lots going on inside that box.
Understood! Not really a big deal. I haven't had this bridge out of the box in years. I have a spare controller....time for a operation. I use to design switching power supply's. The scope hasn't been out in years. All my other projects are finished. This should keep me busy for a bit.
if I recall, I believe the controls were installed from the outside (panel mount) and the board soldered to all of the control terminals.
Check the old thread.
A spare box went south for reverse engineering and that never happened.
Lou N posted:Marty Fitzhenry posted:Marty, I would figure the same as you. The LED would look cool. I got to know more about this brige than I ever wanted to. I went crazy looking for a box. My bridges work and they are staying down.
Hi Marty,
Many years ago my neighbor had his bridge fail. I was able to get schematics from Mike Braga (a really long time ago!) to see what could be done. That circuit was an example of how not to do electrical engineering, believe me. I was able to make up a sound board for the warning horn and bell. Finally got it to run. I could see if Ron (neighbor) still has the drawings.
Lou N
Marty,
Check my latest post. I posted the schematic wiring diagrams. My neighbor still had the drawings. Hope this helps.
Lou N
I'm resurrecting this thread as I intend to finally install mine on the layout.
First, Lou, thank you for posting that pdf! The latter half with the admonition about additional insulated tracks is invaluable! I've had mine out of the box and run it stand alone many times, although not recently, and never with track connected to it. Knock on wood as I write this, but it has worked well.
So my questions: Has anyone installed this bridge on their layout and used GarGraves Track? If so, what did you do about the sensor pieces? I can see operating the bridge without them, but then there is no safety factor if the bridge is up. Given the location I plan for the bridge, the sensors may not be necessary, as 1) it won't be on a main line, and 2) it will likely stay in the down position for most of the time.
Chris
LVHR
