Lionel 222 Switches

Tin Guy, It might be to power it from a separate source than track power.

Yep! one without the wire works, and the one with the wire doesn't, and I'm not

used to the track powered type, got used to the American Flyer switches that

I can use a separate transformer with.

Tin

That wire is most likely disconnected from somewhere. Power up the switch from center rail and outside rail and connect one at a time a jumper to the black wire then throw the switch. Some combo should make the switch work. Might as well drop in a light bulb.

F&G & Rob

   That's the one! When I hook the black wire to the center rail everything

turns on and it try's to switch, it must be really dirty inside plus the wire

is cracking from age and must be replaced. You think this ones been

hot wired for separate power source if it is I'll do both like that, also

I guess the only way to get into these to clean and rewire them is to

pop out the rivets and go from there??

Tin

A little TLC and a rivet gun and everything will be fine.

Your right, just took the cover apart, and didn't have to remove the rivets

there for holding on the insulation board and that's it this is going to be fun,

I guess if I want to use a separate transformer I have to use insulating pins

and wires to use it by itself.

Tin

Hi all,

  Would the 223 switches work better with the 318 engine I have, this engine

has the large gears and it does a dance when it goes the 222 switches, would the 223 be better or the same??

Tin

Should be the same. Only difference is the non-derailing feature.

To wire to acc. voltage the hot lead needs to be dis-connected from the center rail and attached to the acc. source. Hook together the commons and good to go.

Hi,

   The non-derailing feature is?

Tin

If the train is entering the switch from the curved portion and the switch is set at straight the switch will automatically throw to curved. The opposite is also true.

They can be made non-derailing but that is another topic.

That's pretty neat! Okay I cleaned my switches can I use later automatic switch

controllers I have one and it does work but both lights stay on or it could be

the broken insulation on the wires shorting, but will try and rewire it. Do you

guy's have any ideas on this.

Tin

I redid the switches cleaned them all out, should I add some lube to

the moving parts or leave them alone?

Tin

Tin,  I lube them, but with synthetic oils only.  They dont evaporate...

I don't think that most do this.... oil can attract dust and dirt.

Tie a piece of wire to the center pin and with the other end touch the other posts. This will make the switch throw. There are original controllers and lighted ones.

If you put insulated outside rails on the curved and straight ends of the switch and wire each to one of those outside pins you will have a non-derailing switch. This feature can be made to control other switches to make routes.

Thanks for the help guy's, I'll leave them for now, but a schematic would be a great

help. 

Tin

It should have 3 wires. They are mixed up. Change them around until they work correctly.

Well you can only do two combinations, Center wire to center post and outer

wires to either outer post and it works, the only thing is that both color lights

stay on.

Tin

I went down stairs and connected a controller to a MTH switch. With the center wire to the center post everything worked perfect. I put the center wire to one side and was able to get both bulbs lit when I turned the switch in the other direction just one bulb lit.

When you have both bulbs lit and turn the switch does one bulb go out?

Yes, when I switch one bulb goes out for a second then when I release the

lever the bulb goes back on again. Maybe there's a way to wire it differently

to get the one bulb to stay on a a time.

Tin