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Hello all, recently for my birthday, I got a Lionel 252 (Peacock) with a 607 and 608 coach (need to get a second 607 later) and a 2035 2-6-4. How many of you own a 252 and like them. I have always wanted one, so when I found one, I had to buy it. It has great paint and runs like a top (no hot rollers on this little guy). It seems to me that this loco can pull a lot. Is this true? Show some pictures of your 252s (250 and 252e welcome) please. i've owned this engine for a few weeks and was this a great choice?
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quote:
Originally posted by Lionel2056:
Hello all, recently for my birthday, I got a Lionel 252 (Peacock) with a 607 and 608 coach (need to get a second 607 later) and a 2035 2-6-4. How many of you own a 252 and like them. I have always wanted one, so when I found one, I had to buy it. It has great paint and runs like a top (no hot rollers on this little guy). It seems to me that this loco can pull a lot. Is this true? Show some pictures of your 252s (250 and 252e welcome) please. i've owned this engine for a few weeks and was this a great choice?


2056, these are nice little starter locos. They'll pull 5-6 cars plus or minus, and well lubricated cars on a flat surface may yield a longer train.

It is a good choice. The 250 series came in lots of colors like... Shell/Frame Colors

Olive/Black
Yellow orange/Terra cotta
Yellow orange/Maroon
Terra Cotta/Black
Terra Cotta/Maroon
Wine/Black (Macys)
Peacock/Black
Dark Green/Black

Out of those, the Wine color is the hardest to find followed by Terra cotta over black.
When I got mine it smelled like it was freshly lubricated and it runs so fast it will flip over on O-42 curves. The coaches even have their oil labels. Mine has spoke wheels, so is that a 1926-1927 production model? It has nickel trim and I believe it is all original, and it has the best looking paint job. It has a wide e-unit slot and the pantograph is at the front.
I love these locos and have several. Generally, they run very well and very fast. As stated, since they're light, the pulling power is limited, but they do what they're designed to do - pull four to six lighter cars.

I noticed in the photo of the 252 shown it appears to be missing the reversing mechanism. To me that's not a big deal, especially at that price, so enjoy and just make sure you keep it well lubed up! Smile
I've had one for about two years now, and it is one of my "Showing People the Layout Engines", a title which I reserve for engines that always run without fuss, and never give me trouble while running. The only time this one ever gave me any sort of trouble was when it developed a short in the wiring (but my guests were impressed by the sparks and the smoke). I rewired the whole engine, and now it just kinda floats around the layout again without issue.
quote:
Originally posted by Nachtjager:
I noticed in the photo of the 252 shown it appears to be missing the reversing mechanism. To me that's not a big deal, especially at that price, so enjoy and just make sure you keep it well lubed up! Smile


Hello Nachtjager -

It's a manual reverse, the switch is up top just behind the head light.

Lione2056 -

Mine originally came with the disk type wheels. I think it is a later version, type 6 motor made 1928-1929, according to Greenberg's.

James
Wow, that was a serious brain fart - sorry 'bout that! I've been working on a contrary 253 loco's disc reversing unit for the last week so I had the disc switches on my brain! Eek

And you're right, only the early versions came with the spoked wheels; honestly, I think they look much better with the disc wheels - they go with the body's smoother lines better I think. Thanks and take care! Smile
George -

Thanks for the photo's, that's really cool to get a look inside one of these. So, even though the E unit has its own on-off switch, Lionel used the original reverse switch and lever to control the action, probably to avoid re-engineering a switch lever for the E to fit through the slot on the top. I love finding out stuff like this!

James
George thanks for the top shot. It confirms the 1935 vintage.

Chuck and Samplingman are right. The disc switch (normally used for manual reverse) in this case is a combination of e-unit cut out switch allowing single direction use by stopping current to the e-unit coil, and a e-unit cycling switch... old fashioned style.

This practice of e-unit isolation came about due to complaints about Lionel's split yoke (called pendulum by most) unit flopping around at ever little spark or voltage change.

That is a nice loco, one that I have not paid attention to. I will be adding it to my list of desires for Lionel O gauge.
quote:
Originally posted by Chuck Sartor:
The switch that looks like a manual reverse controller is a on/off switch for the E unit. It should have only 2 wires instead of the usual 4 or 5 wires.
Fallow the yellow wire, it leads to the E unit coil.


Chuck,

You are absolutely right. There are only two wires running to the manual reverse controller. You learn something new everyday. I have had this loco for 6 months now, but I haven't tried to run it or even put power to the motor. I know the 252's with the "E" rubber stamped on the door are scarce so I had to have it. Now I have to spruce up the motor and run some juice through it.
Robert....

Sorry to report that the 252 shown is not correct. When lionel installed e-units in 248s,252s and 253s (drum type e-units) they always had a complicated stamped and plated bracket to attach the unit to the motor chassis. They would not have just added it to the frame as you show in the photos. Also, note that the disc switch is not there, in fact, the e-unit is in the wrong position as the manual switch goes where the three square holes are (the "front") and the the e-unit would be hanging by a bracket on the other end.

Furthermore, your motor is an earlier version with the triangle gear cover placing it between 1930 and 1934. The later version has two uncovered fiber double reduction gears.

Therfore I suggest that someone added an e-unit (it is a prewar e-unit however) at some time in the 252's history.

You can see some of these details in george's posts.
Rob
After seeing the pictures that George posted I kind of came to the conclusion that my 252 was a mutant even though I have had it since childhood. I think my dad bought all the prewar trains that I have during the war or right after from a friend he worked with during the war in Kansas City.

I remember going to this persons house when my dad bought the AF 429 with the Lionel rear truck on the tender. This person had quite a collection of trains. I remember this huge mountain that the train ran up on and then disappeared and reappeared elsewhere.

Back then I imagine a lot of folks changed things as best they could. I won't however try to make it original as this is the way I had it and played with it. You just can't change those types of memories. Wink
Robert
One more question: The 252 came with one headlight and a whistle? Because I have a headlight, but an empty hole on the other side. The TCA book on prewar shows only a headlight in the photo of a 252 for some reason- nothing on the other side.

My headlight casting is also crumbling. Does someone sell a replacement casting and whistle? George Tebolt?

Thanks, all.
I inherited my father's 252 and three passenger cars. It was pretty far gone -- it hadn't run since the first time I saw it, back in the early Fifties. The pantograph and whistle were missing, as was the headlight. And when I inherited it two years ago, the wheels had succumbed to the dreaded Zinc Rot and were crumbling away. One coupler was missing on the locomotive and one car, and one car had no couplers at all.

I got in touch with Jeff Kane at The Train Tender, and ordered the parts I needed, including reproduction wheels. Getting the old wheels off was no problem -- they crumbled away in my hands. Putting the new ones on was mostly a matter of making sure they were perfectly parallel as I squeezed them onto the axles in a vise. The gears on the back of the new wheels were a bit loose so I used a center punch to dimple the wheels and hold their gears tightly.

I discovered that the reason it had never run was that one of the brushes was missing from its proper place, and had jammed inside the motor housing. I shook it loose and put it aside. Then I thoroughly cleaned all the moving parts and replaced several wires whose insulation was hard and cracking. I replaced the brush, applied power, and away it went, for the first time in my lifetime.

I chose not to try repainting it. It really wasn't that badly dinged up to begin with, and I wanted to keep it as original as possible. So I settled for a good exterior cleaning and an application of some top-grade automotive wax. I installed the new couplers on cars and locomotive, attached the trim and headlight, and wired it up properly. It runs like a champ, now. Here's what it looks like:



Unfortunately, my father didn't live long enough to see it run anew. But I'd like to think that he drops in from time to time, and likes what he sees.
quote:
Originally posted by Will:
I recently inherited my Dad's 252. It's the full set (freight) with the boxes. The wheels are crumbling however.

Samplingman, did you replace the drivers your self? How hard is that on this engine?


Hello Will -

I got all of the parts I needed from George Tebolt, but there are others out there that deal with pre-war. I had to use a wheel puller on the bad wheels, but they came off easy enough. One tricky part was pressing the old gear onto the new wheels and then peening the soft wheel material to keep it in place. The most difficult part for me, however, was pressing the wheels onto the axel evenly; one axel end would always seem to poke through the wheel hole on the other side. It took a bit of practice but eventually I got it right. Good luck!



James

John G,

 

I like the photo of your restored 252. I have an olive 252 that is in running order(probably needs new wheels, and the light is not working), 2 - 529 cars and 1-530 car that I run once every few years using a B transformer, and a #88 Rheostat. I also have a working #71 RR crossing signal. Any idea of what it would cost to have these restored (I live in southern New Jersey), and would it be worth it (not sure of their value). They were my fathers trains.    Don

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