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Just got one of these the other day. Not able to install it on my layout but was advised to put it together and check the operation. So, I'm in the  process of putting it together to check it out since one of the critical parts, a PCB controlling the motor and LED, is not longer available.

 

Does anyone have one? How do you like it?

 

Will need to connect it with my Ross track using the converter pins but I don't have any of the converter type insulation pins recommended in the instructions. Are they really necessary?

 

Has anyone operated it with the IC Controls AMC or ASC?

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I set up the bridge yesterday to check out the operation. Works great. Only thing is that the level of the track is a lot higher than my Ross track.

 

Does anyone make a ramp to raise it up or is that something I would have to do myself.

 

Those of you that have one what did you do?

Originally Posted by Trainman9:

Those of you that have one what did you do?

I use Midwest cork roadbed under my Ross track.  That matched the connection height to my 213 quite well. 

 

That Lift Bridge is a scene-stealer, all right. It's adjacent to the Bascule Bridge across the same 'river' (table gap)  I'm hoping to add ITT Products sound modules to both to increase the drama.

 

The only 'problem' I had with the 213 was its compatibility with some of my cars.  It's somewhat limiting to car height; had to sell those cars that didn't clear. 

 

More disappointing was that the rail height on the lift section is somewhat shallow; A couple of my cars apparently had overly deep flanges which tended to rattle-bounce across the ties and their molded features.  I filed those features down a tad to gain the extra few thousandths necessary for a quieter traverse of those cars.  Some full-function 1:48 track workers would have made that job a lot easier!!! 

 

I run strictly conventional, so I can't help you with your other questions.  Sorry.

 

KD

I agree it's a scene-stealer but mine eventually got relegated to display case duty. The clearance at each end of the bridge is not enough for certain cars, which is a real disadvantage.

 

There's a big difference in this respect between the metal 213 and the earlier plastic 12782 lift bridge, which is bigger overall (and I think still ranks as Lionel's biggest ever accessory) especially in the centre section clearance.

 

However, few things in my collection give me greater satisfaction just to look at and occasionally see running. It was definitely worthwhile getting one.

I don't think I'm going to have any issues with engines and cars being able to go through the bridge. I tried a Legacy K4, PRR U28 and the 18 aluminum Congressional cars and they all fit. My Williams Scale GG1 will also go through as long as the pantographs are not in the up position.

 

I sent an E-mail to Lionel asking them how to wire up the bridge to the ASC.

 

I know they had instructions for the Lionel SC1 and 2 to operate the bascule bridge so I should be able to make the connections to operate the lift bridge. It should be a simple matter, at least I hope it is.

 

It's not always the obvious cars that won't fit.

 

A K-Line by Lionel Pennsy caboose (I don't have the number, but it's the one from the 3 pack of rolling stock meant to go with the little A-5 when re-issued as K-L by Lionel) had an issue with the top "t" piece of the smoke stack not clearing.  you can remove the top "t" piece, as it's a smoking caboose, it will then clear.

 

-Dave

I think I may have figured it out.

 

I opened up the controller that came with the bridge. It is labeled "Automatic Switch Controller". It appears as if the center connection inside the controller is "common".

 

There are two heavy copper strips with each of the other wires connected them. My guess is when you make contact via the lever that you complete the circuit and make the bridge go either up or down depending which way you press the lever.

 

There are three terminals on the front of the bridge where the controller gets connected and two on the back to supply power. The center wire of the controller is connected to the middle terminal (I suspect this is the common) and the other two wires are connected one to the right terminal and the other to the left terminal.

 

I would power the bridge independently with my K-Line accessory transformer.

 

So, I could simply wire it up just like the controller that came with the bridge. I currently control power to my yard tracks by using the ASC ACC 9-12. I could use two of the remaining terminals as ACC 13-14 connecting the COMM to the center terminal on the front of the bridge and the wire from #12 to the right terminal and #13 to the left terminal. By addressing the respective ACC and then pressing the AUX1 button on the CAB1L to raise or lower the bridge.

 

Does this make sense?

OK, checked it out.

 

My ASC is programmed for ACC 9 through 16. There are two commons on the ASC one for the first four terminals and one for the remaining four terminals.

 

ACC9-12 turn power onto my four yard tracks and the COMM for the first four terminals is connected to one of my TPC's.

 

I used ACC terminals 13 and 14 along with the other COMM to connect to the lift bridge. A wire was connected from the COMM terminal on the ASC to the center terminal on the bridge. ACC 13-14 were connected to the right and left terminals.

 

Addressing  ACC 13 and holding down the AUX1 button raises the bridge and addressing ACC 14 and holding down the AUX1 button lowers the bridge. AUX2 could be used but you need to press it again to stop the operation.

 

Either way it works.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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