Lionel 6-38095 TMCC

These are well built locomotives and I believe Lionel got the red stripe correct which was an issue on the 2nd legacy release.

They are powered with the highly regarded "Pittman "motor and also have a more robust ,imo "simplified" gearbox than the Legacy versions.

If the price is right. The smoke unit could always be fixed. I own a few  mid 2000's TMCC Era steamers and they smoke well enough for me without any issues.

There was one of these on the FS forum recently. Unless that's the one your referring to.

@John Capp posted:

I am looking at purchasing the Lionel J-Class N&W 6-38095. I have heard the TMCC may be better than the Legacy but the TMCC may have smoke issues.

Opinions?

The only smoke issue I know of is it doesn't puff with the chuff (that's only 2 per revolution).  Easily fixed with GRJ's supper chuffer and chuff generator.  Available through Forum Sponsor Henning's Trains.  Giant dog not included.

@RickO posted:

These are well built locomotives and I believe Lionel got the red stripe correct which was an issue on the 2nd legacy release.

They are powered with the highly regarded "Pittman "motor and also have a more robust ,imo "simplified" gearbox than the Legacy versions.

If the price is right. The smoke unit could always be fixed. I own a few  mid 2000's TMCC Era steamers and they smoke well enough for me without any issues.

There was one of these on the FS forum recently. Unless that's the one your referring to.

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the reponse.

Is your first sentence referring to the Legacy only? Does the TMCC have the stripe issue (I am not that much of a purist)? Are you saying you prefer the TMCC or both are great locos? This TMCC is supposedly NOS.

Thanks again

John

@John Capp posted:

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the reponse.

Is your first sentence referring to the Legacy only? Does the TMCC have the stripe issue (I am not that much of a purist)? Are you saying you prefer the TMCC or both are great locos? This TMCC is supposedly NOS.

Thanks again

John

The first Legacy release was correct.  The latest Legacy release, many my self included felt the stripe was too red. It definitely didn't match the previous releases or the previously released passenger cars...not even close.

@John Capp posted:

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the reponse.

Is your first sentence referring to the Legacy only? Does the TMCC have the stripe issue (I am not that much of a purist)? Are you saying you prefer the TMCC or both are great locos? This TMCC is supposedly NOS.

Thanks again

John

They're both great but if we're going be " picky".

The TMCC version has only 2 chuffs and puffs per revolution while the Legacy version has the more accurate 4 per rev.

If it bothers you, the Superchuffer Marty mentioned will fix that.

The red color is accurate. There is no whistle steam (of course).

Lionels first run of Legacy J's had the correct colored stripe. It also didn't line up between the loco and tender. This was resolved adding washers under the cab. It did not have whistle steam either

The more recent one. The red looked more bright and less accurate. The stripe was straight however ,and the engine has whistle steam.

Maybe it's just my good luck, but I have never been disappointed in a nos TMCC locomotive. Additionally, IMO many of the Legacy sounds have become more common/ generic across the line.

Ultimately, it's up to you. Otherwise you could check out some videos of each searching youtube.

I personally have become more fond of TMCC steamers after some disappointing Legacy pre-orders. As good as Legacy sound is. The old TMCC steamers are no slouches and many of the sounds are more unique.

@RickO posted:

They're both great but if we're going be " picky".

The TMCC version has only 2 chuffs and puffs per revolution while the Legacy version has the more accurate 4 per rev.

If it bothers you, the Superchuffer Marty mentioned will fix that.

The red color is accurate. There is no whistle steam (of course).

Lionels first run of Legacy J's had the correct colored stripe. It also didn't line up between the loco and tender. This was resolved adding washers under the cab. It did not have whistle steam either

The more recent one. The red looked more bright and less accurate. The stripe was straight however ,and the engine has whistle steam.

Maybe it's just my good luck, but I have never been disappointed in a nos TMCC locomotive. Additionally, IMO many of the Legacy sounds have become more common/ generic across the line.

Ultimately, it's up to you. Otherwise you could check out some videos of each searching youtube.

I personally have become more fond of TMCC steamers after some disappointing Legacy pre-orders. As good as Legacy sound is. The old TMCC steamers are no slouches and many of the sounds are more unique.

I think you sold me on the TMCC. Love that J-Class

Here is a video I did on my TMCC J.  Hope this helps.

@RickO posted:

These are well built locomotives and I believe Lionel got the red stripe correct which was an issue on the 2nd legacy release.

They are powered with the highly regarded "Pittman "motor and also have a more robust ,imo "simplified" gearbox than the Legacy versions.

If the price is right. The smoke unit could always be fixed. I own a few  mid 2000's TMCC Era steamers and they smoke well enough for me without any issues.

There was one of these on the FS forum recently. Unless that's the one your referring to.

Rick hit this on the head,…..some of the finest stuff Lionel ( and MTH ) produced is from that era,….turn of the century Korean made locomotives are generally in the bulletproof category…..upgrades can come at any time,

Pat

https://ogrforum.com/...4#158815187586676694

Very cool video.

@harmonyards posted:

Rick hit this on the head,…..some of the finest stuff Lionel ( and MTH ) produced is from that era,….turn of the century Korean made locomotives are generally in the bulletproof category…..upgrades can come at any time,

Pat

Thank you for the encouragement. I think I am diving in.

Alright. Closed the deal. Paid a good bit but it is NOS and I wanted the 611 as oppossed to the 606 for instance for petty reasons entirely.

Can't wait.

@John Capp posted:

Alright. Closed the deal.  

Congratulations!

I wanted the 611 as oppossed to the 606 for instance for petty reasons entirely.

It happens, but did remember you count all of the rivets?

Can't wait.

@John Capp posted:

Alright. Closed the deal. Paid a good bit but it is NOS and I wanted the 611 as oppossed to the 606 for instance for petty reasons entirely.

Can't wait.

If it’s truly NOS, that means it’s been sitting for god knows how long,…..the locomotive might be bulletproof, but the lubricants are not……I would recommend popping the shell off and lube and inspect EVERYTHING that moves!!…pull the gear box cover off and inspect the condition of the grease,….chances are you’re good, but better safe than sorry,….put a healthy drop of motor oil on the worm shaft bearings, and the motor shaft bearings …..pull axle grease plugs, and lubricate, ……I like a shot of oil, followed by a small squirt of grease …..if you paid a good bit for it, then take an hour and protect your investment……..

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

If it’s truly NOS, that means it’s been sitting for god knows how long,…..the locomotive might be bulletproof, but the lubricants are not……I would recommend popping the shell off and lube and inspect EVERYTHING that moves!!…pull the gear box cover off and inspect the condition of the grease,….chances are you’re good, but better safe than sorry,….put a healthy drop of motor oil on the worm shaft bearings, and the motor shaft bearings …..pull axle grease plugs, and lubricate, ……I like a shot of oil, followed by a small squirt of grease …..if you paid a good bit for it, then take an hour and protect your investment……..

Pat

Pat,

Great advise. Regular motor oil on worm shaft?

I have the "probably overpriced" kit with the needles because why nitpick when I am buying kids toys for Long Island Lawyer prices. Love the hobby and this forum.

Thanks in advance.

John

@John Capp posted:

Pat,

Great advise. Regular motor oil on worm shaft?

I have the "probably overpriced" kit with the needles because why nitpick when I am buying kids toys for Long Island Lawyer prices. Love the hobby and this forum.

Thanks in advance.

John

On the worm shaft bearings, yes, a drop of oil goes along way on them….add grease to worm gear itself,….it’ll be pretty self explanatory when you look around in there…motor oil, Labelle oil, or whatever flavor of oil & grease you prefer,…..somethings better than nothing,…..a dried gouging bearing or bushing will ruin your day, even on the most indestructible models….😉

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

On the worm shaft bearings, yes, a drop of oil goes along way on them….add grease to worm gear itself,….it’ll be pretty self explanatory when you look around in there…motor oil, Labelle oil, or whatever flavor of oil & grease you prefer,…..somethings better than nothing,…..a dried gouging bearing or bushing will ruin your day, even on the most indestructible models….😉

Pat

Pat,

It has arrived. She's a beauty.

There are directions to parts that should be greased / oiled. Are you suggesting for this job I should take the shell off to get to the worm gear/bearings? There appear to be screws that I remove when needing to grease.

Thanks again.

John

I also recently bought a 6-38095 "New in Box".  When it arrived it was clear to me it had been run a bit.  It needs new traction tires, no biggie.  I decided to open it up and inspect (and top off) the grease in the gearbox.  Maybe I missed something easy, but this required me to disconnect a few wiring plugs and remove the circuit boards, because the gearbox cover is underneath and 2 of its screws hold the circuit board mounting bracket in place.

I took lots of pictures as I was disassembling it, to ensure getting it back together correctly.  I'm glad I did.  It made putting it back together much easier.

While I was in there, I removed the cherry switch and found the chuff cam is split (but fortunately still affixed on the axle).  It works for now, but for how long???

Any suggestions on a replacement?

@SteveH posted:

I also recently bought a 6-38095 "New in Box".  When it arrived it was clear to me it had been run a bit.  It needs new traction tires, no biggie.  I decided to open it up and inspect (and top off) the grease in the gearbox.  Maybe I missed something easy, but this required me to disconnect a few wiring plugs and remove the circuit boards, because the gearbox cover is underneath and 2 of its screws hold the circuit board mounting bracket in place.

I took lots of pictures as I was disassembling it, to ensure getting it back together correctly.  I'm glad I did.  It made putting it back together much easier.

While I was in there, I removed the cherry switch and found the chuff cam is split (but fortunately still affixed on the axle).  It works for now, but for how long???

Any suggestions on a replacement?

Steve, that cam ain’t long for this world, you have only couple of options at the very moment…..the first obvious choice is John’s Super Chuffer & the Chuff Generator, his stuff is readily available, and can be installed thus eliminating the need for a cam altogether, plus that option opens you up immediately for 4 chuffs,…and allows the upgrade to fan smoke in time as well,….plus lighting mods, etc,……the second option readily available is a replacement cam from the big L, ….that will require pulling the axle set to press on a new cam,….but then you’re back in the same soup, with the same lame 2 chuffs per revolution……another thing that’s popping up on the forum, is a 3D printed version of a 4 lobe cam that’s split in two, and can be cemented on the axle, negating the need for wheel pulling……but as far as I know, nobody at the moment is offering these for sale on the secondary market just yet……hope that info helps….

Pat

I think Pat covered it.   Here's the links to the Chuff-Generator and the Super-Chuffer II for your reference.

@John Capp posted:

Pat,

It has arrived. She's a beauty.

There are directions to parts that should be greased / oiled. Are you suggesting for this job I should take the shell off to get to the worm gear/bearings? There appear to be screws that I remove when needing to grease.

Thanks again.

John

John, if you’re comfortable servicing your own locomotives, then yes, I’d recommend pulling the shell off, and having a look around,…pull the grease cover, do the maintenance in there, plus, while the shell is off, traction tire swaps will be slightly easier, …..good opportunity to do fastener checks, and have a look at wiring etc, for potential future issues…..also, as I’ve mentioned before, if it moves LUBE it ….put a descent dose of lube on the motor shaft bearings …..while it’s sitting there staring back at you…..😉

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

John, if you’re comfortable servicing your own locomotives, then yes, I’d recommend pulling the shell off, and having a look around,…pull the grease cover, do the maintenance in there, plus, while the shell is off, traction tire swaps will be slightly easier, …..good opportunity to do fastener checks, and have a look at wiring etc, for potential future issues…..also, as I’ve mentioned before, if it moves LUBE it ….put a descent dose of lube on the motor shaft bearings …..while it’s sitting there staring back at you…..😉

Pat

John W. and Pat, thank you for the replies about the Super Chuffer II and Generator.  I have some questions about the installation after reading the installation instructions, but don't want to hijack this thread.  I mentioned the cam lobe, so that John Capp might look for that too.

Pat, when you mentioned lubing the motor shaft bearings, do you mean to apply a bit of oil to the outside of the motor shaft where it rides in what appears to be bronze bushings?  Or does this lubrication require pulling the motor end bells?  Use something like Labelle 107?

@SteveH posted:

John W. and Pat, thank you for the replies about the Super Chuffer II and Generator.  I have some questions about the installation after reading the installation instructions, but don't want to hijack this thread.  I mentioned the cam lobe, so that John Capp might look for that too.

Pat, when you mentioned lubing the motor shaft bearings, do you mean to apply a bit of oil to the outside of the motor shaft where it rides in what appears to be bronze bushings?  Or does this lubrication require pulling the motor end bells?  Use something like Labelle 107?

They’re oilite bearings, so in theory they should absorb the oil,…..What I’d recommend y’all do is put a drop on the shaft right at the bearing, and just lightly wiggle the shaft in and out to work the oil in. If there’s no end play, then don’t sweat it…..put a drop or two on it, and let her eat…..if you want to be technical about it, inside the Pittman there’s an absorbent pad surrounding the bearing to keep it emulsified, but that would require pulling the motor apart to get to it….I think I did a write up a while ago on how to do it, but heck if I remember when…….

Pat