Skip to main content

When you lube the engine don't forget to lube the 3 axles.  If you're not familiar with this engine, the process is easy enough.  Turn the engine upside down.  I use a Styrofoam egg carton which cradles it;  holds it perfectly.  There are 3 tiny screws/ one on each axle located in the middle.  The center axle has a screw.  The front and rear axles have screws holding the center rail rollers.  Not to fear!  Removing the screw on these axles will remove the roller.  NOTHING will fall apart inside the engine.  Lionel Corp suggested putting grease in each hole.  They made a special narrow  tip lube tube that will fit into the hole.   After 55 years, the grease dries up.  I have found that one or 2 drops of 10W non detergent oil dropped in the hole - ONE drop at a time - works!  I use a tooth pick to speed the process.  What you're doing is mixing the new oil with the old grease.  Then you replace the screws.  You'll need a tiny screw driver for this.  Then it's time to run the engine to allow the new lubrication to infiltrate the axles.   Hope this helps. 

I had the 1968 version with the Pennys tender of all things.  Loved that engine but as a kid it always bugged me that it ran slower than the 736 berk or my NYC F3 AA unit.  With block controls I could never run the 773 with another train as they would catch up and cause a big wreck   

If I remember correctly Madison Hardware had a mod for this engine to increase it's speed but I'm recalling this from my youth so I don't know what was involved and it was from one of their advertisements I used to see all the time in Model Railroader.

Last edited by superwarp1

I took advantage of that ad from Madison.  I had purchased a '64 version 773 at York in the early 80's.  It had a lot of run time, the drivers had scant grooves in them from running.  I sent it off to Madison for the motor upgrade and to make a long story short, what I received back was not entirely what I sent.  I got back six new drivers, new E unit, and the Gold Seal motor.  I believe they sent me an entirely new chassis along with the more powerful Gold Seal motor.  I was very pleased, to say the least.

@fisherdoc posted:

Runs beautiful! Much better than this new stuff! Identical to the 1964 version as far as I can tell!

Much better than this new stuff!

Everyone is entitled to their own opinions, but may I ask how you drew this conclusion? …..and what “ new stuff” are you referring to?….I’d like to know so I can avoid “ new stuff” that doesn’t run as well as the 1950 model of the 773,…thanks!..

Pat

Well I can tell you the Lionel 773 of 1950 and 1964 are outstanding engines. Both of mine are great runners and yes a bit slow but it is scale speed. I have a "modern" Lionel 6-18056 and this engine runs so slow its ridiculous. I mentioned this on a Lionel facebook group and one guy told me that's why he sold his it was a poor runner almost useless - as mine is.

On the other hand I have the Lionel 773 from 1999 and it runs great! So i guess one needs to do some homework which isn't always easy. As a personal preference I like the older Lionel it is just made better and I just like it better.

@fisherdoc posted:

Well I can tell you the Lionel 773 of 1950 and 1964 are outstanding engines. Both of mine are great runners and yes a bit slow but it is scale speed. I have a "modern" Lionel 6-18056 and this engine runs so slow its ridiculous. I mentioned this on a Lionel facebook group and one guy told me that's why he sold his it was a poor runner almost useless - as mine is.

On the other hand I have the Lionel 773 from 1999 and it runs great! So i guess one needs to do some homework which isn't always easy. As a personal preference I like the older Lionel it is just made better and I just like it better.

And that’s good to know,…..I can give you a little hint on the “later” Hudsons…..18056 etc,…they are good runners as well, however, they are notorious for the grease drying up beyond belief, hence why some run so poorly if they haven’t been serviced,……this is true of just about all the 1990’s releases of Large Pulmor ( and maybe others) equipped locomotives,….I’ve seen 18009, 18064 Mohawks, 18005 700E and many others have this common ailment if they’ve never been serviced,….the grease can get so hard and dried up, you’ll literally have to scrape it out with a screw driver,……a good cleaning and lube, and they’ll run just as good as they’re ancestors with a little break in time,……remember, you’re getting a 1950 or 64 model 773 with god knows how many hours of run time before you got it,…..Lionel’s Pulmor scale Hudsons, both full & semi scale have always run best with some descent break in time…….it’s even mentioned in the PW service manual to “ break in “ a 773 if tightness in the gear box is observed,…..enjoy your Hudsons!..

Pat  

@harmonyards - so Pat, to counteract the grease getting so hard and dried up in locos equipped with large Pullmor motors (eg. 18009, 18064), would you endorse Rev Len's recommendation put forth above?  Namely, after removing the 3 tiny axle screws underneath, to address the same dried up grease issue - "I have found that one or 2 drops of 10 W non-detergent oil dropped in the hole - ONE drop at a time - works!"

@PH1975 posted:

@harmonyards - so Pat, to counteract the grease getting so hard and dried up in locos equipped with large Pullmor motors (eg. 18009, 18064), would you endorse Rev Len's recommendation put forth above?  Namely, after removing the 3 tiny axle screws underneath, to address the same dried up grease issue - "I have found that one or 2 drops of 10 W non-detergent oil dropped in the hole - ONE drop at a time - works!"

Not with what I’ve seen,….the grease can get so dry, so hard, that the mechanism won’t even budge,….plus, the dried up grease invades the ball bearing sets for the worm shaft. Any time one of these comes across my plate, I physically tear down the gear box, remove every last stitch of old dried grease, clean the worm shaft and bearings. I usually wind up shimming these gear boxes anyways to optimize their performance, then I button them up with synthetic grease,….

everyone has their own methods that work, but I want to put my eyeballs on the individual components to know they’re clean, and well lubed,…

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Not with what I’ve seen,….the grease can get so dry, so hard, that the mechanism won’t even budge,….plus, the dried up grease invades the ball bearing sets for the worm shaft. Any time one of these comes across my plate, I physically tear down the gear box, remove every last stitch of old dried grease, clean the worm shaft and bearings. I usually wind up shimming these gear boxes anyways to optimize their performance, then I button them up with synthetic grease,….

everyone has their own methods that work, but I want to put my eyeballs on the individual components to know they’re clean, and well lubed,…

Pat

This is the best way. Clean ALL the old grease out and replace. These are very simple mechanisms to take apart and it'll save you a headache in the long run.

Last edited by Lou1985

Last I tried today, original link not working. I believe I have the complete tune up procedure. When you open, and look at the procedure's first page, don't be fooled by the Page 1 of 2 at the top right. The pdf actually has 16 pages. The tune up procedure was broken up into 6 sections, and I combined into one pdf.

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×