Lionel Crossing Gate Connection Problem

The 145c contractors are tricky.  It's possible that something in the contractor is bent, causing your problem.  I gave up on them years ago, opting, instead for insulated rails.  

I thought that myself.  I've contacted the vendor and asked for a replacement since as we know these parts have been knocking around for decades.  Is it possible to buy a new contactor from Lionel but I'm sure they went out of production a long time ago

Dan Padova posted:

The 145c contractors are tricky.  It's possible that something in the contractor is bent, causing your problem.  I gave up on them years ago, opting, instead for insulated rails.  

Agree on insulated track sections.

On my PW-style layout I use a handful of insulated tracks to trigger signals, lights and accessories. Those contact plate devices are such a pain.

If I use an insulated piece of track, do I just use a lockon to power the gate?

No, I wouldn't.

The specific wiring depends on the accessory in question but usually you run hot and common from your power source to the accessory. Another wire goes from the insulated side of the track rail to the accessory and when the train runs over the track it "closes the circuit" like a switch and activates the accessory.

To get started I would search insulated track sections here and I'm sure you'll find a variety of threads on the topic. There may also be some good "how-to" You Tube videos out there that will supply good information.

Thanks for the information

I'm with you guys, these are indeed finicky to adjust. Speaking of which, I did not read anywhere above where you tried to adjust the spring tension knob, did you? When screwed down all the way, I believe the connection won't be made at all, or at least requires a small boy standing on the track with a sledgehammer.

Also, forgive me for asking - does your 145C have three connectors (Fahnestock clips) or two?

George

Yes I wiggled jiggled sprayed contact cleaner and Labelle 107 in it then tried to sand the contacts.  I screwed the thumb wheel all the way down then back

  Next I put a small screwdriver into the gaps to try to bend the contacts.. but nothing worked

Well if y9ou can see an air gap between the contacts and your crossing gate is still operating, it's got nothing to do with the contacts per se. Look elsewhere for a bent piece of metal that is touching where it shouldn't - I believe you have some part of that switch bent out of its normal shape. try slipping a business card between the frame and the contact arm, especially moving it into the tightest places, see where that gets you.

Or go to bed and start with a fresh brain in the morning - that works for me!!!!

johnstrains posted:

No, I wouldn't.

The specific wiring depends on the accessory in question but usually you run hot and common from your power source to the accessory. Another wire goes from the insulated side of the track rail to the accessory and when the train runs over the track it "closes the circuit" like a switch and activates the accessory.

To get started I would search insulated track sections here and I'm sure you'll find a variety of threads on the topic. There may also be some good "how-to" You Tube videos out there that will supply good information.

John, I'm not sure I agree with you.  If you run a hot and neutral to the accessory, it will operate continuously.  

But if you run a hot wire to the accessory, then run a wire from the second binding post of the accessory to the insulated rail, the accessory will operate when a train passes over the insulated rail.

Now, to confuse things further, some accessories have lighting that we want to remain on all the time.  In some cases, the wiring from the lights can be connected directly to the power source, The binding post, on the accessory that sends power to the operating mechanism would then be wired to the insulated rail.  

Dan Padova posted:

johnstrains posted:

No, I wouldn't.

The specific wiring depends on the accessory in question but usually you run hot and common from your power source to the accessory. Another wire goes from the insulated side of the track rail to the accessory and when the train runs over the track it "closes the circuit" like a switch and activates the accessory.

To get started I would search insulated track sections here and I'm sure you'll find a variety of threads on the topic. There may also be some good "how-to" You Tube videos out there that will supply good information.

John, I'm not sure I agree with you.  If you run a hot and neutral to the accessory, it will operate continuously.  

But if you run a hot wire to the accessory, then run a wire from the second binding post of the accessory to the insulated rail, the accessory will operate when a train passes over the insulated rail.

Now, to confuse things further, some accessories have lighting that we want to remain on all the time.  In some cases, the wiring from the lights can be connected directly to the power source, The binding post, on the accessory that sends power to the operating mechanism would then be wired to the insulated rail.  

Dan,

Well, it depends on the accessory in question which is why I purposely didn't try to give the poster above a universal solution and suggested some research.

As you allude...

Example 1: The 445 Switch Tower does use a hot and common, plus a third wire to the insulated track section. The constant voltage to the tower is to keep the light illuminated.  The same wiring scheme for the Auto Gateman.

Example 2: For a two post 154 flashing signal (I have one of these and some are two posts and others three) simply one wire from hot and the other one to the insulated rail.

I think we're in the same ballpark but it really depends on the accessory. 

Trainz, the vendor, is sending me a new one and (hopefully) this will do the trick.  I will let everyone know what happens.   Thank you all again for taking time to try to help me with this problem

I installed the new 145 contactor last night and the crossing gate now works as expected so some internal problem must have caused the original one to short out.  Many thanks and also a shout out to Trainz.  Very good customer service.