Have a 75 foot layout. Bought some new 10 inch straight track, some used 30 inch track and some used 036" curves and had a loop that came with a train set. Decided for smooth and constant voltage to solder all tracks together with 60/40 rosin core electrical solder and 16 gauge speaker wire. All new 10 inch track soldered together with no problem. 10 inch track that came from a train set and curves would not take solder. All used 30 inch track took solder and a few curved sections did as well. I am stumped as why some Fastrack soldered with no problem and others would not. Any ideas?
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Are you soldering to the rails or the connection tabs under the track? Did you use flux before trying to solder?
Tabs. Will try flux, The rosin core worked on half track (tabs) then did not work on other tracks (tabs).
I am thinking that the Fastrack must vary from batch to batch. I got mine pretty much all at the same time, about seven years ago now. I never could get the plating on mine to tin, even with flux. I had to grind it off with a dremel. Sandpaper didn't do it. Once the plating was completely gone, I could tin the bare steel.
When I solder to tabs, I use a thin screwdriver to lift one side of the tab place the wire on the other tab, and bend the lifted tab over the other tab, pinching the wire between. This provides a mechanical connection as well as an electrical connection... soldering works best when you provide a mechanical and electrical connection.
Thanks I bent tabs up pinched and found a 50/50 solder added more flux and job is done. It's a shame that Lionel has some Fastrack that solders with no problem at all and other Fastrack that is very difficult to solder on tabs under track.
Thanks to all that responded to my problem.
Have you tried using the .110 inch crimp connectors on the underside of some of the FasTrack? I think they're called "quick disconnect" type connectors.
I've used them to go from track to track with all of the wires hidden beneath the roadbed. The 10 inch straights are easier to do this way than the curves.
Just an idea.
-- Leo
Consolidated Leo posted:Have you tried using the .110 inch crimp connectors on the underside of some of the FasTrack? I think they're called "quick disconnect" type connectors.
I've used them to go from track to track with all of the wires hidden beneath the roadbed. The 10 inch straights are easier to do this way than the curves.
Just an idea.
-- Leo
Was going to be my next step. thank you