LIONEL LION CHIEF RTR SET QUESTION

Rather than using the wallwart to try to power multiple locomotives, use something like a Z1000 brick or similar.  100 watts should be sufficient to power all three of them at once.  Several power drops around the loop the size of a room are advised, I'd consider one on each wall.  You could just run the wire under the Fastrack base to hide it on the floor.

For some reason (hey you EE's out there) long lengths of track are less suseptible to power drops when constant, high voltage is applied.

When first building my trackplan with O tubular I connected tens upon tens of sections.  Impatiently I connected one CTC Lockon with an LW and set the voltage to high.  I ran a TMCC engine all around with nary a hiccup.

Low and behold I placed a conventional engine (dual motored Postwar G) on the same track and discovered several places where the engine would slow, almost to a crawl.  Obviously I needed more drops and/or track troubleshooting.

I can't remember if the command engine had cruise, but even if it did, could that compensate for the voltage drops?

Maybe amp draw has a lot to do with it?

Paralleling three little transformers like that is not a desirable situation, I'd much rather see a single transformer with multiple power drops.  I don't know the characteristics of the transformers, and the internal circuit protection could be compromised by the parallel connection.

John, I'd chalk your experience up to command and cruise control, it'll compensate for a lot of voltage and load variation.  Also clearly the actually current draw is a major factor in voltage drops, simple Ohm's Law at work here.

I believeThe LionChief 72 watt 4 amp power supply is shipping sometime this month. If one were to plug this into Miller Engineering Power Distribution Board #4805, would they have enough power through the ten posts for feeders to the track?

This thread is a perfect example of how complicated model trains are.  Here we are talking about Lionel's most basic starter set and the experts in the hobby are stumbling over a fairly basic question.  Not being critical at any of the posters, but making a statement about the hobby in general.  No wonder people are intimidated by it.  I also think that Lionel needs to clearly address these things because you know the first time a kid gets a second set or has his friend come over with one, they are going to want to hook them together.

Very good point, tow dog.  Given my grandson's love of the plug and play, I was simply speculating on 'what if'.  I am no electrical engineer or any other kind.  I have no idea what would happen if 3 terminal sections are hooked up.  Perhaps Mr Reagan can answer this question.

Maybe I can inject my experience with slot cars. I was in slot cars up until two years ago, and I was able to use 3 wall warts with my track, 18 volts for each one. Depending on the size of your layout, I would tried the one that comes with the set, and if you need more power, you could use up to two of the 72 watt power supplies. I also used a voltage meter to see if I had 18 volts through my track. I might be wrong on this, but it seems it should work the same way like my slot car system. I'm not a electrician, but Lionel should weigh in on this.

I wouldn't worry about that Towdog after all the largest printed lettering on the Lionel wall wart clearly states "Caution Electrically Operated Product"

I can confirm that a single CW-80 will run three LC+ locos simultaneously, plus power multiple buildings and a 4-car lighted passenger set, without getting warm.   -Ken

I would have been very surprised if Lionel endorsed wiring the power packs in parallel, they suggested what I suggest, a single larger transformer.  Of course, for just command operation with one or more LC or LC+ locomotives, I'd just use the PowerHouse 180 brick, it's less than half the price of the GW-180, and that's what the GW-180 uses to supply power anyway.

The LC 4A supply would be a decent choice, as you say, it's still not really available.

The PW-ZW can deliver in excess of 10 amps to a single output, so you're mistaken on that point.  You can actually draw the full power capability of the PW-ZW from any of the single outputs, though it's not a recommended method of using them.