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I did a search on the forum and found a topic on derailing issues with these switches.  I have several of these nib and really like the classic look of them, but would rather use the Ross switches if these are troublesome. 

Does anyone here have a recommendation about which switches to use?

 

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From  my experience the derailing issue with the MTH 042 turnouts depends upon what trains you are running. Large gear locos hop the check rail. And some Classic era Lionel have problems with the frog. Some locos will run fine.

If you can live with a manual turnout, then try the American Flyer ones. Their design has longer moving points and so no frog or check rails.

The Ross STDG turnouts are the best. But only come in 072 and #6 size (or is it #4 I forget, but larger diameter than 072).

 

 

Last edited by MrNabisco

I'm preparing to lay track and I have this predicament.   I currently have 6 of the mth/lionel 042 switches, and 4 of the Ross 072 switches, and before I remove them from their boxes I'm trying to decide which to go with.  I prefer the look of the mth/lionel switches,  but would rather use the Ross. Switches if they are less prone to cause problems.

Any and all opinions are appreciated. 

 

I have a loop with 2 MTH 42 switches to connect sidings. The trains only run through the closed route and never a problem.

The outer loop has 3 72 MTH switches and trains run through both closed and open with no problems.

My middle loop has Ross 72 switches to run The Brute and Super 381. The super 381 would hit the switch cover on MTH switches . It also will not fit through a 380 bridge or Hellgate bridge. It also hit the cover on a MTH lockon. Thus the special loop for these engines.

Frank,

   There is absolutely no problem with the FasTrack Switches they accommodate all different kinds of trains, they are pretty much bullet proof running,  on the other hand I got rid of all my MTH RealTrax switches, problematic especially for Tin Plate.  Also the new Lionel low voltage FasTrack Command Control switches, operate right form the TMCC Cab1 or Legacy Cab2 remote controls, as many as 99 on track power.  I have 3 or 4 pair on each level.

PCRR/DaveDSCN1463

 

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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

Frank, in asking whether to use MTH 42's or Ross 72's, you're comparing apples to oranges.  The more pertinent question might be, do you need (or want) 72"D switches or 42"D switches on your layout?

If 42's are called for, MTH is your only choice in standard gauge.  For the 72's, you have options.  I have 56 switches on my standard gauge layout, and about half of them, mostly on the main lines, are the Ross 72's.  I still have some MTH 72's on areas less travelled like yards; and I have several MTH 42's in the tighter areas where I need 42 curves and switches.  

All of these switches, by the way, work very well, I can't remember when I last had a switch-caused derailment, and I enjoy having the variety. Each type meets a different need.

david

F&G,

   You are correct sir, no STD gauge FT Switches, Lionel does make new STD Gauge Tin Plate Track, just like the FT O Gauge,  he will need to go Ross for switches, which if he runs Tin Plate could mean some problems for constant running.  If you run STD Gauge you might want to run very few switches.  A big circle Under a Massive Christmas Tree is always classic in STD Gauge anyway.

PCRR/Dave

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

Ross makes a #4 turnout for Standard gauge. These are better for crossovers and sidings because they eliminate the S-curve caused by radius turnouts.

Issue with Ross is that they are DC powered. This makes them difficult for non-derailing. They are spring loaded so the train can plow through and not derail.

Personally I look to run routes and control one switch with another. This is another reason my outer loop is MTH and middle loop Ross.

Last edited by F&G RY

MTH switches are sexy looking but their high profile creates clearance problems for many  SG locomotives.  Unfortunately, these clearance issues can cause derailments and can only be corrected by modifications to the locomotive.  In addition, I have found that some trolleys/handcars cannot pass through MTH switches without loosing power when their single electrical pickup passes over the plastic frogs/rails used in MTH switches.  Ross switches have none of these problems. 

Ross switches also come with LGB switch motors which require DC power to activate.  One of the simplest ways to provide the precise power required is to use a Piko switch control box which is specifically designed to operate the LGB switch motors and will convert AC input power into the exact DC output power required by the LGB switch motor. 

Bob Nelson

 

Piko Switch Control Box 

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As previously stated, not all Standard Gauge equipment under the sun is designed for the traditional STD-42" tinplate turnouts.  However the  400E steam locomotive, State cars and smaller equipment all work fine on them as they always have.

My new private "around the room" layout I'm building is Standard 72" curves with three or four passing sidings long enough to fit a complete train set on it.  Because the track will be above eye level and mostly out of arms reach, I am using Ross STD-72" turnouts.

If I had a traditional table-top layout, I would probably use the LCT (MTH) turnouts primarily for the appearance of them, operation second.

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