I have a many engines from the early 2000's that are TMCC that I run temorarily with a Postwar ZW and a Cab 1 in command mode, but a few take off when I ease into the throttle at top speed. My Lionel UP Dash 9's (18286) in particular do this. Any ideas? I did engine resets with the Aux1 code, but I cannot run them at low speeds.
Any Ideas?
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Since that unit doesn't have cruise control, it's usually a failure of a board that does that. Since you've programmed them, do you see the light blink when you set the TMCC ID? Are you SURE they're switched back into RUN mode? Can you blow the horn under command control? Do they take off right away or after cracking the throttle?
John, its 18286 UP Dash 9's. They are in run mode. I can use all the features. Its just takes off like a jack rabbit when I ease into the throttle. As for the AC motored switcher, I dont know whats causing that one.
Motor sensor/flywheel?
Over voltage - PW ZW can output more than 18v AC?
WAG - bad battery for railsounds?
It was the Flywheel magnet, it was broke. Ordered a new motor.
Would have been a good opportunity to add ERR Cruise. I had one of my magnets let loose and I installed the ERR myself. (And I'm no expert!) It looked much simpler than replacing the motor!
ZWPOWER13 posted:It was the Flywheel magnet, it was broke. Ordered a new motor.
There is a rebuild magnet part/kit. You can salvage the motor. Our sorely missed (deceased) forum friend, BoxCar Bill was good at this stuff. Somewhere, I have the kit and fix saved.
The magnets were fragile for some reason and caused weird issues when they cracked.
Glad you discovered the problem. The early Legacy engines have a good feel to them.
Actually, replacing the motor is very easy Jeff. Unplug the 3-wire plug, unsolder the two motor feeds, drop in the new motor, put it back together.
Carl, getting the flywheel off with out the proper puller is not easy, and it's very easy to wreck the motor trying. For the small difference in price, I just buy the motor.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Actually, replacing the motor is very easy Jeff. Unplug the 3-wire plug, unsolder the two motor feeds, drop in the new motor, put it back together.
Carl, getting the flywheel off with out the proper puller is not easy, and it's very easy to wreck the motor trying. For the small difference in price, I just buy the motor.
Thanks, John, I forgot about the pulling part. I recall the thread on the Challenger in England. He had to have a machinist friend pull it. yep, new motor it is.
I am still looking for a nice wheel puller that won't break the bank that I can pull these with, but so far no luck.
ZWPOWER13 posted:It was the Flywheel magnet, it was broke. Ordered a new motor.
how did you know it was a broken magnet , can you see it , my UP 7616 is doing the same thing taking off fast but when i hit the brakes it slows but no squeaking brakes , thanks Dave
If you look at the motor flywheel, the gray ring around it is the Odyssey magnet ring. If that's missing, it will take off as soon as you crack the throttle. If it's just loose, it can take off, or run erratically. If it's just loose, push it back up against the rim at the top of the flywheel and secure it with CA adhesive. If it's broken, you need to either get a new motor assembly or buy the flywheel and magnet repair parts and pull the old flywheel and install the new one with the magnet ring.
It would depend on the motor that determines if its better to replace the motor or get an ERR Cruise M. For most diesels with Mabuchis I would just replace the motor. On steam engines with a Pittman I would get a Cruise M. I still have a few flywheel replacements and magnets but after these get used up I will just begin replacing motors.
Not all diesels are that easy to get the motor out either. The Odyssey F3s require removing a boards and light shield in order to get to the screws on top of the truck. Then hope they are not loctitited in.
Many possible solutions.
Pete
Sometimes it's not possible to get the whole motor assembly, I've run across that several times. In that case, I keep a couple of the rebuild kits around to do it the hard way. Since I picked up the Timko wheel puller, the replacement job is pretty easy, that slides the flywheels right off.
gunrunnerjohn posted:If you look at the motor flywheel, the gray ring around it is the Odyssey magnet ring. If that's missing, it will take off as soon as you crack the throttle. If it's just loose, it can take off, or run erratically. If it's just loose, push it back up against the rim at the top of the flywheel and secure it with CA adhesive. If it's broken, you need to either get a new motor assembly or buy the flywheel and magnet repair parts and pull the old flywheel and install the new one with the magnet ring.
yes its broke in half its number is 6-28524 chessie 7616 & i really like it , does anyone have the magnet that would be great and the flywheel let me know or can a err cruise commander work ?
Dave k posted:gunrunnerjohn posted:If you look at the motor flywheel, the gray ring around it is the Odyssey magnet ring. If that's missing, it will take off as soon as you crack the throttle. If it's just loose, it can take off, or run erratically. If it's just loose, push it back up against the rim at the top of the flywheel and secure it with CA adhesive. If it's broken, you need to either get a new motor assembly or buy the flywheel and magnet repair parts and pull the old flywheel and install the new one with the magnet ring.
yes its broke in half its number is 6-28524 chessie 7616 & i really like it , does anyone have the magnet that would be great and the flywheel let me know or can a err cruise commander work ?
If this is Odyessy then it would be much easier to use an ERR Cruise M which allows you to keep the R2LC and just replace the motor driver board, DCDS.
A magnet and replacement flywheel is less money but you would also have to get or borrow a flywheel puller. Now you are getting close to the cost of the Cruise M especially when adding in shipping costs.
Pete
Thanks Pete,Where’s the best place to get one of theses boards & Since mine is DC I’m assuming I’ll need err cruise command board
Dave k posted:Thanks Pete,Where’s the best place to get one of theses boards & Since mine is DC I’m assuming I’ll need err cruise command board
Dave, get them from the source. electricrr.com
They offer a number of cruise products. Send them an email with info about your engine and they will let you know what the best option is for you.
Pete
Electric Railroad co.
Sounds like a job for the Cruise M board. I used this on a Lionel Dreyfuss Hudson, it really improves the engines performance with the extra speed steps.
Nick
John, I have the Timko puller and its worth the $40
Norton posted:Dave k posted:Thanks Pete,Where’s the best place to get one of theses boards & Since mine is DC I’m assuming I’ll need err cruise command board
Dave, get them from the source. electricrr.com
They offer a number of cruise products. Send them an email with info about your engine and they will let you know what the best option is for you.
Pete
thanks pete
This thread is great and helped me find my problem .. I have a Lionel RS-11 (6-28521) with TMCC that exhibited erratic speed when initially starting from a cold startup . but after a few minutes of run time .. it was smooth sailing .. today .. anything off idle was full speed and no speed control at all .. Pulling the cover, the magnet ring around the flywheel has dropped down and loose .. does not appear cracked .. any advice or direction on the best way to pull or put it back in place.. looking for the right install dimensions or position on the flywheel, before I damage anything .. I am hoping the pickup sensor is not damaged .. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The speed control when working is phenomenal .. can run at a crawl .
Thanks in advance
Slather a little CA adhesive on the flywheel and inside the magnet, and then use some little clamps (paper clamps work well) to hold it in place for an hour or two. That should do the trick. I use the thick "gel" type, Loctite 416.
Thanks for the help, unfortunately I did notice a full crack in the ring and when I touched it to try and cement it in place, it fell apart in 3 pieces .. guessing that is why it dropped off the flywheel. I am lucky enough to gently pull the flywheel off the motor armature. I looked up on the Lionel.com website and the magnet ring is available as well as the complete motor/flywheel/magnet assembly. So I will order just the magnet and hopefully be back up and running.
Secondary question .. I have two TMCC diesels that have broken centering springs on the couplers (cheap plastic springs .. terrible design). The Lionel engines are a Dash-9 (6-18231) and a SD-60 (6-18221). Both engines have defective / broken springs front & rear .. I have a pic below on the right .
I cannot find the part number anywhere nor a supplier.. any suggestions as to finding out the right part number and source, or better year and alternative adaptation that has a better life.
Any help or direction is greatly appreciated
If the parts are available l from Lionel, I will add them to my order for the magnet ring
Sorry 6-18221 is a SD-50 not SD-60
Pictures didn't come through.
@Larry Martin posted:Sorry 6-18221 is a SD-50 not SD-60
I found this truck breakdown for 18221 in supplement 31.
Sorry .. 2nd try
Greg ,, thanks for the info .. next problem is finding a source for the parts that ship to Canada.. I have bought from Lionel directly in the past and they ship here .. other parts places rare to ship here .. hit and miss..
The part looks like it is not available thru Lionel .. although I will call them today
Kind of a sub-par design being a plastic spring especially when it is in use around every curve .. I will let you know if I find a source and secondly if they ship to Canada
I do wish Lionel would improve on having parts that are in high demand and no longer available. I am sure there are many examples of parts that are out of stock because of various design flaws or parts that are often broke during normal use. These design flaws include gears (fail under normal use, i.e. the Niagara), incorrect lens color, defected parts from their vendor including poor quality metal castings (i.e. scale GG1s). The list goes on. The normal parts that get damaged are front pilots, rear platforms, front railing platforms (scale Allegheny), the front bell for the new big boy engines. I would at least like to have a "somewhat reasonable" solution rather than no option (purchasing an entire shell for a $10 part may not be reasonable).
On a positive note, one thing I really like seeing are options that are as "good as" or "better" than original. And there are examples of those as well (i.e. the front support bracket made of steel rather than cast under the boiler (above the chassis) of a Legacy AC-9, improved gears for the Niagara, aftermarket GG1 truck frames, etc.
There are times I have to resort to making my own parts, or trying to find a donor, or a re-designed part. And donors can also be a "that's too bad it had to be scraped for parts" type of thing. I do know Lionel will take items and use them to fill the parts needs. I get that. I have my own "scrap" yard of original and sometimes high value items.
Regarding this repair issue -
Could installing a light torsion spring in the original plastic housing/part work? There are several suppliers.
Dave
There's always a way to rig a spring, just use some fine piano wire and rig something. I had to do that when I was adding electrocouplers to my Williams 44-Ton locomotive. The original was a little coil spring that I could never make work, finally I gave up and made my own.
Nice work John.
I have in the past and not against making up or jury-rigging something to work .. have to have the right tension on the spring you make to ensure it does not derail the leading or trailing car if the modified coupler does not have the right amount of flex .. I was trying to keep it original .. as I need to fix 4 couplers front and rear on two diesels
I will try John's suggestion and play around with one over the next few days .. it will be more robust than the plastic one .. thanks John
So, I used my Dremel with a very small bit and put a hole (on each side) into the centering spring base where the 2 plastic springs were that broke off. I then found a spiral spring that felt like it had the right amount of spring back, cut out a length, straightened it out rolled one end back 180-degrees on itself about an 1/8 of an inch and used pliers to crush it flat.. I glued the rolled back end into the base with liquid (not gel) Super Glue .. let it dry then covered the exposed portion with 1mm yellow shrink tube (if the spring comes out, I will be able to quickly find it on the track).
I put in on the engine and adjusted the length to suit and the bent it to the right tension and position .. it works great .. time will tell for durability .. I have done the front and rear couplers on 2 diesels
I may still try to find the original plastic part
Thanks
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