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Always wanted to construct a tunnel and rock cut which I finally did! In the photo below you are looking at the back of one side of the hill with the tunnel/rock cut.

i cut the holes in the bottom of the “hill” to give access to the track running thru the tunnel. After picking up another locomotive and train cars ( you know how that works) I added a section to the end of the layout and ran some siding tracks (IMG_5131that connect to main track)including one that terminates under the hill.

i am looking for ideas to cover the back of the hill - was thinking of rock face but not sure how to accomplish that easily - I used plaster molds to do rock cut - but I would need a lot of plaster molds to do the rock face

I’m also considering a signal tower in left hand side - there is enough room to accommodate one there

any ideas/ suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Tom  Sheridan

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@tsheridan posted:

i cut the holes in the bottom of the “hill” to give access to the track running thru the tunnel. After picking up another locomotive and train cars ( you know how that works) I added a section to the end of the layout and ran some siding tracks (that connect to main track )including one that terminates under the hill.

i am looking for ideas to cover the back of the hill - was thinking of rock face but not sure how to accomplish that easily - I used plaster molds to do rock cut - but I would need a lot of plaster molds to do the rock face

May I assume you just want something to cover the plywood at the end of the hill, something that would resemble a cut rock face? If so, I'd suggest a sheet of foam (probably a half-inch to an inch thick) cut to cover the plywood. Before you attach it, you can lay it flat and create the rock face. One method would be to manually cut and texture the foam to resemble a rock face (there are a number of videos on-line suggesting techniques), but I'm inclined to using a simple and inexpensive alternative:

- First, loosely contour the outside face of the foam board to roughly resemble the shape of a rock face cut (rounded edges, some shallow grooves, etc.).

- Cut off a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil (something like a foot or foot and a half square) and loosely ball it up, and then open it up and spread it out flat, leaving the folds and wrinkles in place.

- Mix up a loose slurry of plaster of paris, enough to pour a thin layer over the unfolded foil and thin enough to spread out and cover the foil. Pour the mix onto the center of the foil and spiral out to completely cover the center and out to near the edge of the foil, in a roughly rectangular shape.

- After the plaster of paris has begun to set up (it will get a bit warm, and become somewhat stiff), lift the foil from underneath and 'plop' the layer of plaster of paris in place over a section of the foam board. Gently press the back of the foil to press the plaster into the foam board face, then peel off the foil, leaving the plaster of paris to harden in place.

- Repeat as desired to add additional sections of plaster of paris 'rock', enough to cover the rock face, either using the same piece of foil or another. You can add in sections of molded rock, or you can add in sections of 'rock' created by letting a plaster of paris pour harden in the aluminum foil and then breaking it into pieces.

- When you are satisfied with the rock face, you can use any of the many rock face painting techniques to finish the rock face. I typically use a base coat, followed by dabs of other rock colors, followed by black washes to highlight the crevices, and white dry brushing to highlight the 'sunlit' surfaces.

- After the rock face is completed, you can attach it directly to the plywood, using construction adhesive (make sure the adhesive is foam board compatible).

I used this 'plop' technique in part to decorate a tunnel I added over existing tracks, where I faced a similar situation of not having much room for transitions (note: some of the pictured 'rocks' were from molds):

rock wallsigns7

I also used the technique on a drop-over tunnel I created for my brother-in-law's seasonal layout

tunnel [2)

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Have you considered a combo of a double sided backdrop there? It would divide the layout and give some sense of distance from either side.  Suggestion below. You could make the hill in front of the access hole removable. The gray could be a tunnel portal or you could hide the portal with a road on a grade and a bridge.  Just my 2c.

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Does it have to be a rock face or would a cut stone wall work for you? This method would also work for your tunnel portal. I used 1 inch pink foam for this wall. There is no greenery on it yet as I am still under construction. Very easy to cut to shape AND you could cut out the tunnel openings as well with a Woodland Scenics foam cutter, like an x-acto knife but longer blade. Much nicer than using a hot wire but that would work as well. Then I used an x-acto knife and metal ruler to cut the "brickwork", a dental type tool for opening up and rounding off the brick (stone) cuts. Then ball up aluminum foil and roll it over it to further make it look like stone. Painted with acrylic burnt sienna and then black which I make by adding cobalt blue to the burnt sienna. I took it off the layout for a close up shot in sunlight, some of that texture you see is actually from the screened window.

I am having internet issues with downloading and sending files ever since Hurricane Helene. I will add them asap. You can find videos of what I did online.

Mikki

Last edited by Mikki

Let's try again. It worked by taking them in real time. The close up  is NOT in the sun as I said before. You could also add some sanded grout over it rubbing into the lines as mortar and brushing off the surface, some would be left behind giving it an even more aged or dirty dusty look.

MIKKI

1728659822300779770092684089858517286599570422759252079885479845

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Last edited by Mikki
@Mikki posted:

Let's try again. It worked by taking them in real time. The close up  is NOT in the sun as I said before. You could also add some sanded grout over it rubbing into the lines as mortar and brushing off the surface, some would be left behind giving it an even more aged or dirty dusty look.

MIKKI

1728659822300779770092684089858517286599570422759252079885479845

Mikki...that's a great looking stone wall area...I used something similiar as "support" (cover over foam) under a bridge...I'll try to post a pic later...

@tsheridan posted:

That is really sharp looking- can’t believe u did that by hand

will certainly incorporate- possibly lower part of wall



thank you!

It is a bit time consuming and not everyone has the patience BUT you do not have to be on your layout or at your workbench to do it. Set up a tv table in front of your TV! This summer, I made this PRR stone arch bridge while sitting out on the deck. Since I used thicker foam, I had to use a hot wire for the arches but the stonework was same method. If you are in the right mood, it can be relaxing. Don't worry about perfection; it's not wiring after all!  Ignore the first photo (IF there are 3), pulled up the wrong one and can't get rid of it. I am starting those bridge piers now but will probably take them to Florida with me to work on next month, everything I need fits into a small box



bridge stone arch bridge minestone arch bridge mine full view

Mikki

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