Lost Two Transformers Today

One image didn't take Bob.

  You have plenty of wire gauge, maybe too big if you run dcs. Might loose the signal strength some, if not great; big = cooler/safer (fused right).  Great for conventional though, and not the root cause of your issue.

   However, adding a fuse/breaker between track and transformer might have prevented this (just maybe).  (choose lower than transformer max amp, and just barely over the draw of your biggest juice hog with a big load of heavy lighted passenger cars) ... Search out threads on TVS too because you do run modern stuff obviously. (transient voltage suppressor, "eats spikes")

Unplug the cords, wait a minute or two, and try again. With a conventional loco or other "plain load"(vs new age electronics) first.  I think I recall some CWs have to be unplugged to reset fully. I think some also have an internal fuse that goes at times. (new isn't really my game)  You'll need a (deep well?) tamper-proof screwdriver too.  

Either way, the transformer breakers should have cut out before they cooked. That loco would have to be pretty uniquely screwed up to cause issues within a power supply imo.

The pop was the CW for sure? Not ahe loco?  How loud? It wasn't the breaker clicking?  (very loud, I'd guess was a capacitor, i.e. might be bad news and....)

 ...And  I'm wondering if you have a wall AC issue. (local supply volt spikes, bad outlet, etc.)  or just plain had an unlucky day .... like two flat tires in a day, it happens to some folk (twice for me). (heck, a relative hit the big lotto jackpot twice, go play while lady luck is paying attention to you; she's a flip-flopper, lol)

In fact, since it is likely easier right away, pull the loco shell and verify that a capacitor in there didn't pop.   You can also likely smell 'burn' wherever a cap popped, try the loco and edges/vent on the CW before you turn screws.  Clean any mess asap with electrical cleaner, dont leave the crap on a board waiting for you to fix it. Clean then take your time (crc brand is good) 

Do you have a multi- meter?  Disconnect transformers and look for shorts on track 1st. (by ohm; look at low readings too. It  may be a light short vs a full short, still allowing enough power by to run stuff. I.e. if the short has high resistance, electricity will choose the train's path vs short's mostly as it prefers the easiest most direct path it can manage (like water flow). If power gets mostly used up in the loco etc, nothing is left for the short to use. Rarer than a direct short, but happens.

Now look at the voltage outputs.  (you might need to put a bulb on the circuit, then measure.  Some won't output power if it isn't "asked for" and the meter won't count as a load there.

Thanks Adriatic, I am going to have some help checking out my wiring and such. Plus checking out my loco. I dont remember the aroma of ozone at any point but before i hook up anything I will make sure that things are checked out. I have used my meter to check voltage, resistance and everything was ok but my table is pn wheels and perhaps moving it around jared something out of whack. Thanks. Bob’s Dad

ps I am light years away from DCS

There is an internal fuse on some cw80s, not sure if all have it but a pita to open up and replace. You need a special screw driver.your cw80 might be repairable. Don't z500s have breakers too?

I had something like this happen once and it was a twisted pick up roller that bridged from the center rail to ground sporadically.

I sounds like something went in the Cw-80 for sure. The Z-500 (Z bricks) need to be unplugged and then the reset button will reset the breaker after plugging it again.

Easy check on the layout. With nothing on the rails and the transformer leads not connected, there should be no continuity (Ohms test) between the center rail and either outside rail. 

That will tell you if the table is good. The only possible trouble spots are the internal boards on the switches that could suddenly fail. 

The CW-80 is definitely not compatible with DCS engines. But, not to the extent of blowing out a transformer or an engine.

 Edit: I forgot: My point is that this is pointing to something on the house circuit side.

The smell of a popped capacitor is usually unmistakably nasty, not just ozone.

Bob's Dad,

Any progress troubleshooting?

I found a thread about getting the CW 80 open to check the fuse.

from anther thread - " Also, the screws on the bottom of the CW-80 are of the "tamper proof" triangle design.  You can file a junk screwdriver to fit, find a flat blade that is just the right size, or buy a TA27 screwdriver. "

pry off the handle

Hi guys, I want to thank younse for all the good ideas and advice. So far I have a clear track so I checked continuity and that went well, as far as the house curcit goes I got a device that checks for grounding (I used it my homecare days) and I get a green light. I had my service entry changed from 100 to 200 so that involved a new box and somebody who knows more than me about Been Franklin's discovery wire it up. For the future, my son is bringing over a transformer, I just run AC for the time being, so we will check voltages,I have my switches wired to be on accessory power, and for the hell of it I am going to invest in a good surge protector.                                                 As for my lock, MTH was very   nice to deal with, I explained to the best of my addled brain function and they gave me an R/A number and it will be on its way tomorrow?

I thank one and all of you guys for the I help and advise thus far, I just hope to get through this experience as I am looking to move on to working with the pink board stuff.

Ed

 Bob's Dad

Ed,

Ok, that all sounds good. One clue that you mentioned is wiring the switches for accessory power.

Are you using an accessory terminal on the track power transformer or a separate transformer? If separate transformers are used phasing could come into question.

Recheck the wiring to the switches for power. 

Forgetting to remove the track power jumper could cause some power increases. Also, the order of the terminal screws must be noted carefully.

I am only suggesting checking this now while you are in troubleshooting mode to not leave any areas left to question.

Carl, things happened this weekend and I got nothing done on my table except a friend stopped by and after talking he checked my wires and not good. There is continuty every where. the two buss lines, inside to middle rail as well. The switch lines, I had them hooked up to the acc. on the transformer, they have it. Any two wires I touch the meter beeps. Thinking maybe taking out the switches, not screwed down, the run a jumper and see. Thanks for your advice thus far.

ed

Ed,

Good time to stop and think it through. Where is there a connection for the continuity without the transformer leads connected?

The lighted bumpers may be causing it for the track. Okay when power is on, not when testing. Pull those off and check the track leads. 

The switch issue is another story. Confirm the order of the wires are correct. Then, remove the hot controller wire and the hot track power wire on each switch. Then, connect one at a time, hot ACC and test and then the hot controller wire.

I am trying to remember if there should be continuity due to the internal switch wiring.

Don't forget that the track power jumpers need to be removed.

Thank you Carl, I am going to give it a shot and let you know what I find. Thanks. 

I completely forgot about the bumpers.

ed