Lubricate track pins with conductive grease?

P.S. -I saw the old thread on this from way back in 2013, but I wonder if there are any updates, new information or new products.    That old thread suggested silver grease from Chemtronics I think.

Mannyrock

You could try an inexpensive dielectric grease sold at most auto parts stores under the Permatex brand name,....although not truly a conductive grease, it will prevent corrosion......it might aid in assembly......it’s very inexpensive, I put a tiny dot on every joint of Atlas O track rail joiners.

Pat

I always just used work gloves to protect my hands. I don’t like anything on the pins. Too me dry is your best bet. You’ll be surprised as to how much cleaning fluid will migrate in the pin areas and collect grime etc.

I put conductive grease on replacement bulbs in my car. I thought for corrosive reasons.

I don't know if this would be useful on track pins. It sounds reasonable.

I have posted information about this in the past in the S gauge forum. I have been using a conductive grease on track pins for over 20 years. Gilbert track and track pin design and metallurgy is different than Lionel track so benefits may be different. The product used is available in several brand names and sold in hardware and big box stores. It is designed for protecting copper to aluminum connections and splices. It is a conductive moisture resistant grease, not a lubricant. It will stay where it is applied.

Myself and other S gaugers use it, very sparingly, on track pins, lockons and the sliding brass contacts inside the track switches.

Tom,

    Would you please share with us the exact name of the conductive product you use?    There seem to be lots of different stats and specs for all of the products online, including "thermal" limits.    I just looked at a tube of the Chemtronics silver conductive grease, and it says "70 degrees to 475 degrees."      Geez, with this stuff, what happens when you try to run your engines in a basement that is always around 60 degree?

Thanks,

Mannyrock

Years ago a got a bottle of Kopr-Shield from an uncle who worked at Thomas & Betts. It's a copper paste.  I swear it looks like you could brush this stuff on a piece of wood and make it conductive (although I have never tested that theory).  The down side is it's like Never-Seez if you're not careful you'll look down and this stuff will be all over your hands, your shirt, your layout...everywhere. It's sneaky. I would try using it sparingly with a toothpick inside the rail tubes.

Manny rock, good info here from several people. Maybe it gets down to if you are making a permanent layout or constantly changing things around. We learn from experimenting.

@Mannyrock posted:

(Trying to open up the holes in the ends of the track is somewhat of a nightmare.   Prying open the bottom seam in the end of the rail distorts the top of the rails, and forcing an sharp pick into the holes to open them up often causes the top of the rails to split at the ends.  ESPECIALLY Chinese made Lionel track.)

If you do go with using conductive grease try using an a syringe  with an industrial needle (flat tip not sharp) to inject it into the rail tubes.

jerry

Below is a picture of what I use. GB is one of several brands selling similar products. I also have an MG Chemicals silver conductive grease. I would not use that on track pins. First it is a lubricant, not a protective grease that blocks air and moisture. Second, it is extremely expensive. Third, it will find its way onto the track where the Ox-Gard will not.

Thanks Rod,

   I have been building my layout from scratch, finding different brands of track here and there.  I've had real problems in dealing with all of the pieces of NEW Lionel Chinese made track.  The metal used is thinner, and far less ductile, than the New York made track.

    Trying to pull pins out of those new sections is almost impossible without destroying the ends of the rails, even if I try to open up the rails from underneath.  (For some reason, the rail ends where the pins are located are "super-crimped" and it is virtually impossible to pull them straight out, or  loosen them by opening up the bottom of the rail.  Move the pins back and forth or up and down to loosen them, and the ends of the rails split.

  Also, when I try to connect the Chinese track together, by pushing the pins of one section into the end holes of the next, those pins won't go in without very very extreme pressure.  I would mention that I have pretty darned strong arms and hands from15 years of carpentry, and it is almost impossible for me to push them straight together.  So, I have to "open up" the end holes with a slender pick, and then guess what, the ends of the rails split .   

   I am going to buy one of TinMan's pin-puller jigs, to help with this problem  (And, to also help pull pins on old New York Lionel track), but then I also really want to start lubricating the pin ends before I start forcing  sections together again.

  I have been told that the conductive grease is not for lubrication, but is for corrosion prevention and conductivity in tight parts.    But, as long as it is grease, and is slippery, I think that is the only lubrication I need.

  Mannyrock

Thanks Jerry and Tom.