Mianne benchwork corners

Joe,

For my large size layout, I chose to use the largest pieces I could and cut them to size. I did not want to have 45 degree cuts nor butted pieces of plywood on the corners themselves. The butted joints were just before the corner. Lots of times I was then able to use a "factory edge" for the butt for a good joint. I also chose to use a doweling jig to drill holes in the edge of abutting pieces and insert dowels in one set of holes to give support to the joint. Much like adding leaves to a table. The joint could also be supported with scrap plywood fastened underneath the joint. This may not have been the most economical method due to a higher degree of waste material. Also, when I put on my sub table top, Celotex Soundboard, I made sure that the joints for both it and the plywood were staggered.

I did mine with pieces of plywood that would fit in my Highlander, so fairly large size. Like Cape Cod Northern, I did not do 45% corners. I cut them to length on either side so I didn't have to worry about getting angles correct. In some cases, I did have to use smaller pieces as I went around the room. Terry

Thanks for the pics. Most likely I would have cut angles for the inside corners but I like the curve better. That looks like a lot of side overhang. I was thinking an inch at most. I bought the 30" stuff and was going to cut 3 from each sheet of 1/2" plywood.

While I don't use the Mianne benchwork, I did use the curved corner between two 90 degree shelves.  And I went back AFTER the two shelves were installed.  I simply used scrap plywood with a 90 degree corner and then used poster board to make a template for the "curve" and drew that on the scrap plywood, cut it and mounted using pieces of 1x4 screwed to the fascia so that the top of the "insert" fit level to the shelves.

Part of the "cost" to switch the shelves from HO to 3 rail O-72 track diameter.  And it worked just as I planned.