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I recently used Microscale Microset on a repainted car.  It seemed not to have any effect on the decal.  I was wondering if it tends to evaporate.  It was a full bottle, but was bought at a yard sale, so who knows how old it is.  I should add that the decal manufacturer recommended using Walthers brand of decal softener.

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Do yourself a favor and dump the Microset. Use Pledge with Future shine instead! Works great in a matter of minutes and you can obtain it from any supermarket/big box store. One Bottle of Pledge with Future shine [approx $7.00] will last you a lifetime! 

 

As compared to that rediculus Microset that cost $5.00 and lasts not as long- not to mention it doesn't work as fast or up to your expectations anyway! Anyone that does Models and is a pro uses Pledge with Futureshine.IT's easy to use. make sure surface with decal is free of dust, dry and clean. BRUSH on the pledge with futureshine. wait 24 hrs and you are good to go! That decal will stay on there- fingers and all! Got a drip of pledge that you want to get rid of? use a q tip and soak up the drop. Any unwanted residual can be cleaned up with ammonia and a q-tip after the futureshine dries!

Here are some cars I decaled using Pledge with Future shine:

8K-tnk1

8K-tnk2

8K-tnk3

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Last edited by prrhorseshoecurve

What I needed this to do was snuggle the decal down over, coincidentally, tank car bands as in your Cargill car. 


Now that's a DIFFERENT Question. For the decal to "snug down" you need MICROSOL. MICROSOL Snugs the decals down MICROSET Sets the Decals in place.

Get it?: MICROSOL [SOLVENT]  MICROSET [SETTLE]

However Microset doesn't HOLD the DECAL in place as good as Pledge with Future shine does. If you accidentally place your finger on a decal drying with MICROSET, chances are good the decal will lift as you pull your finger away. Pledge with Future shine is a clear acrylic that holds the decals in place and dries in the hour. I stated to wait 24 hrs so the pledge REALLY dries and you don't get your finger prints in any "wet residual" pledge.


Now another reason to wait 24 hrs between applications...

For those using MicroSOL then Pledge, you NEED to WAIT 24 HRS between the two applications. IF not, when the Pledge is applied, the Pledge becomes milky when mixed in with MICROSOL. But have no fear and let the decal dry if this does happen as it will dry CLEAR in the end.

Last edited by prrhorseshoecurve

Lessee...   Microscale Set is in the Blue label bottle.  Microscale Sol is in the Red label bottle. 

 

OK...'Set' is weaker in strength than 'Sol'.  Set is what MS recommends to initially position the decal.  It will, however, begin to soften the film, but unless you're working with a 5" piece of spaghetti...a long stripe... you should have enough time to position the decal.  Alternatively...and I'll admit to using this preferentially...I'll just position the decal with a drop of distilled water...or tap water which you have determined leaves no residue when left to dry by itself.  You get the point, I'm sure.

 

Now, after the decal is in position and the water or 'Set' is evaporated, apply a single brush swipe of Sol over the decal...AND DON'T TOUCH IT OR RESWIPE IT!  Fresh Sol is very fast acting...on Microscale's decals and many other brands.

 

HOWEVER...  I have also found some decals which tend to 'ho-hum' Sol.  Old Walthers decals, in particular.  In which case I keep a bottle of Walthers Solvaset handy.  It is different than MS Sol, but it really works well on the 'tougher' decals.  I suppose you could use Solvaset on all of them in place of MS Sol, but I don't...on first swipe, anyway.  You may have to use a second application of Sol or Solvaset if you can see any residual silvering under the decal after it dries.  Pin-prick the silvered area to assist the sol/solvaset in wicking beneath the decal film to get it to soften, snuggle down.

 

BTW, I'm sure you know by now that after you apply Sol or Solvaset the decal will take on a shriveled effect.  DON'T PANIC!!!  AND DON'T TOUCH IT!!  It's doing its 'thing'!  When it completely dries it will miraculously show NO signs of shrivel whatsoever.

 

Now, PRRHorshoecurve's suggestion of using FUTURE is excellent...if the decal is being applied to a smooth surface.  It is, indeed, the pro's (automobile, airplane, ships, etc. models) choice for decaling.  So, consider how the decal will lie, then make the appropriate choice.

 

Going back to your original question, though...'Does Microscale Set lose its chutzpah after a while?', my experience isYES!  Same with Sol and Solvaset.  Whether the price per bottle seems steep or not really depends on how much decaling one does.  If you only do a few decals a year...or less...it can seem exhorbitant.  I would NEVER buy a bottle...whole or partial...at a garage sale.  In fact I wouldn't buy the stuff at a flea market unless it was a dealer selling it.  Think about it...you have no idea what clear liquid is in the bottle unless you try it first, know the previous owner, buy from someone who has a reputation to protect or will be able to take the manufacturer to task, etc.  Same for clear smoke fluids.    But, that's just one person's (moi) opinion, of course.

 

Be sure to seal the decal when you're done.  Gloss, semi-gloss, flat,...whatever.  It will unify the whole appearance of the model.  THEN, if you're so inclined, weather the dickens out of it!! 

 

...or not.

 

KD

 

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