Building a modular track layout using MTH RealTrax. I am finding that I will need to seperate (cut) the tracks where the modules will connect together. What would be the recommend maxium gap between the track rails coming together? (hoping to avoid any derailments or issues) These could be considered expansion gaps I would guess.
Thanks for suggestions.
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I am assuming each module will have independent track power........
I don't have a number, but "close as possible" because you don't want to have bumps and jolts. I'm sorry for the "Thank you, Captain Obvious" answer and that I can't give you an actual number.....
I am also assuming that the layout is indoors in a climate-controlled environment that minimizes the changes in the wood due to humidity, heat and cold, etc
Will the modules be clamped together? Will they be fixed in place by say a dowel or two traversing both module frames? I'm no expert but I have put up enough modular set ups to know that most of issues with smooth running occur where modules are joined.
I'll take some pictures of our modular set up today and post them later.I believe that our yard is set up this way.
Peter
I've done this a couple of different ways, but it has been with traditional Lionel track or GarGraves. On my home layout, which is modular and in the unassembled stage, the track goes right to the edge of the modules. I adjust the legs to get them close, put the modules together, then use clamps to keep them in position. Each module is wired. Alternatively, I have operated on modules that use six-inch bridge tracks. This protects the edges during transport. It's a bit more work to put them together, but probably a superior method if you plan on moving the modules often. Just my experience which is admittedly not as recent as many on this forum.
If I want power breaks, I use the sectioned track they make with 3 wires, or bend/break the center contact. That is NOT what you are after, you want a separation. To do that, I bend/cut of the copper contact "ears" on each piece, then I take and hacksaw off the tabs on each end of the adjoining tracks...thus making them a butt ended section.
You will find that wheels will roll over a 1/32 gap or so with no problem. I would NOT put an open gap (unless you can make it small) coming off of a turn, there might be a tendency for the front wheels/truck of a steamer to click the edge and jump off the track.
I am guessing your breaks would be on straight sections, you should be good doing the above.
Greg
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