more work to do

Yep. You've got your work cut out for you. I have the demonstrator and the Bush '41 SD70ACe's to switch over to fixed pilots, so I, too have my work cut out for me.

Joe your fleet is looking good. I have not tried to do that but can imagine it's a job but I think you will be up to it. Good luck.

 One down.....

https://ogrforum.com/t...m2-demo-scheme-np-3r

Joe, here you go- this is one of my SD70ACe units that I converted from 3-rail to the fixed pilots, full handrails, Kadee set up. I'm working on a "how to" as I type with photos of one of my Dash 8-40C's. I say go for it, as they look awesome when done like this-

 

 

Jeff looks very nice.

 Jeff, that does look great!

I don't know if you cast your pilots? I figure it needs a three piece mold to capture the detail and be able to come out?

 I used "quick" set silicone and it looks like it will take me three days just to make the mold!!! I sure wish MTH had some of these by now.

Joe, that sure is a lot of engines you have there!

 

Rick

Yeah. Instead of building the new layout, I'm grabbing any deal around. I'm going to need a second engine yard or some shelves. I've got 'em in boxes, on the main, on the sidings, on the plywood,.........

Joe,

Keep up the great spirit. Things look like they are moving along very nicely. Jeff, too.

Thanks to all for the comments. I actually used the 3-rail pilot, used a bench grinder to "hollow out" the inner portion to allow the trucks to swing inside, and used 4mm Plastruct strips,in various widths (.060 and .080) for the filler Strips. It works perfectly. I made a jig to use to drill the holes to line up with the holes in the cab for the 2-rail versions. I used a #4 x 1/2" screws to secure the pilot to the shell. the handrails are .025 brass wire from The Tichy Group. 

 It looks good on that diesel Jeff. I had one where the step count was off and also the way the steps should taper in. I fixed the three rail pilot that way anyways as it looks good enough, running in the middle of the consist.

 I've now noticed that there must be more fixed pilot versions than I thought. There are GE and EMD ones. There are 5 or six step models. Then, MTH seems to have changed the design a bit and moved the plow mounts and even the way the whole fixed pilot attaches.

  This one was easy, as I just swapped out shells. Of course the handrails had to be swapped too. Ooops. wrong pic?

Joe, I've done all3 of my CN SD70M-2's, and here's the non-powered unit. I also added some spacer beams in between the frame and the truck sideframe top to virtually eliminate the gap altogether. I used a grinder to remove the tab in the middle/top of the sideframe which makes it parellel for the beams to be added.

 

Here you go:

 

 

 

 

Joe are you making progress on this project?

I've cast the molds for the fixed pilot. It now takes 24 hours to dry the new mold pieces. Then, I'll have to try my hand at my first cast plastic piece.

 I've looked into higher quality silicone for better molds. If these come out decent, I'll probably upgrade to better casting materials.

 For anyone who thinks toy trains cost too much, they should try making one. Urrrgggg!! I quit!!

 I wish MTH had more two rail parts to offer

 

Joe, 

What about 3d printing?  

 http://www.shapeways.com

 

-mark

 

 Yes, I had considered it. Most of them want you do supply a cad 3d drawing.

Have you used these guys? The site looks like it might be from Europe?

Joe hang in there. You will do a GREAT JOB on the engines.

Joe,

i have not.  The reviews from what I've read, with the HO & N scale community seems favorable.   Perhaps you could order a few extras and try to off-set any incurred costs by selling them.  Just a thought.

 

-Mark

 Well I must have got a second wind. (Thanks Bill)

I'm  going try a new order of mold material and different casting resin that I just placed. Hopefully the new silicone won't rip as easily and the plastic with more casting time will allow the air to escape. I'm new to casting so it may take more patience than I have. I'll add some holes for sprues to allow air escape routes and retry this casting stuff. It would be cool to try some sort of metal some day too. It's at least good practice on learning how to make a mold that works on tiny stuff like the pilots and steps on these engines.

Joe,

 

I am in the same boat as you.  Please let us know how it works out.  I have 14 locos to do, but just can't seem to find the time.  If you get good results, I would be willing to buy whatever you might be able to make.  On a side note, a kid that works for me is going to school nights for mech. Engineering, and has the ability to make cad drawings for the pilots.  I was thinking of having him draw them up and send them to shapeways.  However, they would take a while to draw up, and from what he was telling me they would have to be printed on a high resolution setting, possibly making them quite expensive.

 

paul

Joe glad you are back in the ball game. I think you are probably at that trial and error stage and it probably does take a little bit to get up on ther learning curve. Hang with it because I am sure in the end the results will be very nice indeed.

 

My Christmas present to myself came this afternoon. I ordered 8 of the GGD 21" light aluminum coach passenger cars in the CN Green & Black livery to run with the 21" 4-4-2 and 10-6 sleepers. I had ordered them back in the early spring. That was cutting it close for Christmas. Now I know what "Just in time" delivery means.

 Thank you.

I don't mean to steer away from Jeff's method. I did make shims for a bunch of mine already. Some came out perfect or at least good enough. I have always wanted a spare set of pilots that I could just bolt on instead of all that extra work drilling and fitting each model. That CSX pictured above had better detailing and I had thought would be on all future fixed pilot models. I just can't get my hands on them.

 Keep in mind, the handrails still are separate.

Joe I have no doubt that you pilots will turn out just fine and that you will work through all the details to make sure they look GREAT.

 I don't know what I was thinking? I now tried my hand at decaling. It is not for me!

This job is for guys with "the touch" and some better patience.

Joe is that a Southern RR Coal Gondola? The blue color seems different. Ithought they used Green and White. I do like the cow catcher shown in the letter R. Remember Joe that none of the pro modlers were born pro's. They had to pratice at it to get to where they are. Just keep hanging Tuff my friend.

trouble being color blind!

Somerset RR cars. Someone suggested that the cars were a dark blue when they were released. It's so hard to tell from pictures because of the dingy color they get from what they're exposed to.

http://www.rrpicturearchives.n...ture.aspx?id=2911925

I can't get it to imbed?

If I can get good quality parts and don't have a copyright problem, I would consider selling some. I have considered making a modern details company. I haven't got it off the ground

My first part will be something (building accessory) I've already made that guys said they wanted.

 What was I thinking? This isn't going easily yet.

I'm trying 80D now from Alumilite and made the mistake of listening to their demold time. It is not 1-2 hours for me right now. It's more like 8 hours min.

Hi Joe Happy Nrw Year. Had not seen you posting for the last few days. Hope all is good with you.

 Almost perfect!

I redid the mold for the third time, because I kept getting air trapped in the little areas of the steps and kept losing them.

 Now I just got two rough spots that I can fill in or drill air release holes for the next pour. At least the steps look better.

 Ran out of rubber on the mold pour and had to add a layer. Ran out of hardener on that and the coupler pocket looks rough. Urrrggg.

Hey Joe....whenever you get everything how you want it...do you wanna sell a set of those?  I need a set... 

 Boy I tell you. I've got a ton invested in time and money and they still aren't right. The main problem I bet was because I had no casting experience. Trapped air is the worse enemy. Even with pouring the molds. I had thought it would be capturing the details and getting a straight piece. It may just end up good enough for me.

 I'm just not comfortable selling one yet unless they're right. I'll let you know. When right, I need a couple of sets myself. This one only fits the EMD SD70ACe I bet. So I need even more for different engines that I'll have rework the molds first. I'm glad it's a hobby and I'm not in business!!! When I get to $500 I probably went too far???

Enginear Joe have you thought about vacuuming the air bubbles out? i know they put the wax pours in a little vacuum chamber to get all the air bubbles out for lost wax casting. you could get a big plastic bowl and cut a hole in it, then run a shop vac in it. or something along that lines to rig up a vacuum chamber without buying the expensive ones haha. its just a thought, it might or might not work for this.

Joe, you know MTH probably has bins filled with these things in china.  One would think they could import a few for those of us that need to convert.

 Yes I did. I actually got a plastic vacuum chamber and was about to test it if I couldn't solve my issues.

 Mold design has to be perfect to get away with casting at room temp without vacuum I believe. When the mold is being filled, there has to be an easy way to get trapped air out and fast.

 I just did a test with the higher strength material that has a thicker visc. I couldn't get it into the mold very fast and I could feel the mold heating up. I have to wait until morning to see. I bet the air got trapped again even with the new mold design. I'm learning but it's taking some time. I can't picture trying to do this inside a vacuum. I believe the air is introduced mainly while mixing and filling.

 I really think that to achieve perfect results, injection is needed with premixed, heated product. I think my results will be fair at best.

I keep my casting resin in the fridge before I use it. If you do the same with the mold you can extend the hardening time noticeably. If you get a small autoclave you can add pressure to the mold after the resin is in it. This gets rid of bubbles.