Mother board /main board

Yes. Welcome to the club. I think you can replace the motor driver board (commonly goes up in smoke on that vintage of K Line?) with the ERR Cruise M. The forum member Gunrunnerjohn probably can tell you the what and the why of it. I have a NYC tank engine that had the same issue and I am contemplating fixing it, but John has a couple of them that he needs to fix and I’m waiting to see how/what he does with them. I think I need the Cruise M and John’s Super Chuffer board to restore the chuff in my case on a steamer. You might PM him.

Yeah just found out from train doctor.its call a driver motor mdk-090 and it not cheap unless someone on the forum has one for sale. If please let me know.

Anybody know how to turn it into a dummy with smoke and electro coupler.?

I don't know what goes with these boards, but a majority of them smoke in that exact spot! I'd love to know what design screw-up made that happen.

@bkm posted:

Anybody know how to turn it into a dummy with smoke and electro coupler.?

Remove the K-Line motor driver, remove the motors and put the motor mounts back on to hold the trucks on.  It's now a dummy with smoke, lights, and couplers.  If this is the only board in the unit, the couplers, lights, and smoke are controlled outside that board.

Only board in it

John, could this be ca. 1990 or so? If so, could be more bad caps. Whatever went did an excellent job of letting the magic smoke out!

Chris

LVHR

Hard to say, it's somewhere in that timeframe.  It's right next to a 10uf 16V cap, I wonder if it's under specified.  There's a cluster of transistors right around there, and that cap, so I'm guessing maybe the cap voltage rating is being exceeded and it's blowing.

Seem that I have another problem now with a different engine. Clean and liberal atlas sd60 with tmcc and now when you power it up and turn up the throttle it takes off full speed and sometimes it just stop after it takes off full speed and other time you have to kill the power. Any idea

Top suspect with Atlas with TAS EOB is the tach sensor.  If it is intermittent, many times it's a broken wire right at the tach sensor board mounted on the motor.  They used lousy quality wire and not super-flex.

Thank I'll check it out.all did was turn it upside down to clean to clean wheels and lubes it.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Hard to say, it's somewhere in that timeframe.  It's right next to a 10uf 16V cap, I wonder if it's under specified.  There's a cluster of transistors right around there, and that cap, so I'm guessing maybe the cap voltage rating is being exceeded and it's blowing.

My 10uF/16vdc cap it totally missing. I don't find it anywhere in the engine...there was some black crumb that I couldn't identify...maybe that was it. I do have that board MDK 090 in a K Line Hudson Cruise modification kit. Looks identical except it is new and shiny. The board is VER4.0 and my burnt one is VER3.0. bkm's is VER1.0. I guess they didn't learn much between VER1.0 and VER3.0. Not sure about VER4.0 at this point, but if I fix it, I want to use the ERR Cruise M anyway. The motor in the kit has a better flywheel (not sloping off at a 45 deg angle) for attaching a strip of white/black bars tho, but don't know if the gear is the same etc. for the tank engine.

Had the same issue with the Lackawanna livery, almost burnt a hole in top of the shell and smelled so bad the wife threatened to leave, just kidding but it did smell bad. If I remember right both powered units had it's own tach drive type speed control and I always wondered if that had something to do with the meltdown as they were always throwing traction tires as if the two powered units were fighting each other. Installed the Err cruise commander.

@cjack posted:

I guess they didn't learn much between VER1.0 and VER3.0. Not sure about VER4.0 at this point, but if I fix it,

I have pulled several Ver. 4 boards with the same issue, AAMOF, one just a couple weeks ago.  Same issue, and the cap, while sort of still being there, was in bad shape with one leg missing and burn marks all up the side.  I have a Ver. 4 board in my K-Line tank engine that's gone bad, and I bought it NIB at York a couple years ago, it didn't run an hour before it died.

They didn't learn anything for the latest version.

Should make a good dummy

Sure sounds like those 16v caps are under-rated. I wonder if you could use a DCDE board to replace it, in lieu of a CC-M? Grj, have you tried that?

Rod

Well, either board will require you to bring over the PWM drives from the R2LC, the K-Line cruise doesn't use those.  Also, the DCDE frequently has serial data issues when dropped into a place that it wasn't used, if so, you'll need a serial data buffer.

Finally, depending on the exact model, sometimes K-Line used the cruise module to provide the diesel ramp up duty cycle, the steam chuff, as well as some lighting outputs.  They don't always match up with the module you're adding.  Specifically, the K-Line engines with sound will lose the diesel ramp up with the DCDE, you need to use the diesel CC-M module that has the duty cycle output, the DCDE has the serial data repeater on that pin.

Hello john got atlas open up not sure what I'm looking for.dont see any wires broken. I'll add a picture and hopefully you tell me where to look.there is a board mounting on rear motor

I found it.broken black wire to tach board. All fixed

Common problem, glad you found it.   Sometimes they look like they're in place, you have give each one a little tug to see.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Well, either board will require you to bring over the PWM drives from the R2LC, the K-Line cruise doesn't use those.  Also, the DCDE frequently has serial data issues when dropped into a place that it wasn't used, if so, you'll need a serial data buffer.

Finally, depending on the exact model, sometimes K-Line used the cruise module to provide the diesel ramp up duty cycle, the steam chuff, as well as some lighting outputs.  They don't always match up with the module you're adding.  Specifically, the K-Line engines with sound will lose the diesel ramp up with the DCDE, you need to use the diesel CC-M module that has the duty cycle output, the DCDE has the serial data repeater on that pin.

Ok thanks for that info John. A bit more to it than I figured. Particularly the diesel ramp up sound issue. Looks like the CC-M is the easier choice for sure.

Rod