Mounting and micro switch for Miller Engineering signs and Ameritowne buildings??

I have 2 Miller signs on Ameritowne buildings. I mounted the circuit board to the bottom of the roof, right at the back wall, using double sided tape. Before mounting the circuit board, I made holes in the back of the building for the on-off switch and the sign mode selector button. They can both be accessed without moving the buildings. For the sign, I cut a slot in the roof to allow the sign connector to be pushed up to the sign connector flush with the roof. 

The switch/button holes are just below the roof line. They are not that noticeable to me, but would probably bother some folks. I never bothered to try and conceal them with with anything, but I imagine they could be covered/disguised with some add on building details, sign, pipes, conduits, down spouts, positioning of the building, etc. and still remain accessible. 

Wiring them permanently using a Miller power supply (or equivalent, voltage is critical) would eliminate the batteries (and need for frequent battery changes).

I have 12 Miller signs, several of which are mounted on buildings. Using the Miller provided power supplies (batteries eliminated) and mounting the circuit boards either on interior building walls or roofs with double sided tape made installation pretty straight forward. Cutting a slot in the wall or building roof for connecting the sign to the sign connector was easy enough using a rotary tool. Once installed and a suitable sign pattern chosen, the signs are always on when the layout is powered up.

Good luck with your installation. These signs are contagious. Any chance I get, I thank Chris Miller for making these great signs available to us.

I have done virtually the same thing as Stangtrain, to fit signs on the roof of buildings.  Before setting the building on the layout, I turn the sign on and set the best sequence for that particular sign.  I then cut the battery off and connect the leads to a buck converter with a rectifier that I have adjusted to 4-4.3VDC.  Using double sided tape I attach the Miller board and the buck converter to the inside of the building.  The two input wires from the buck converter go to any nearby accessory buss.  In this way I don't have to mess with batteries or turn the sign off and on - just power up the accessories and they come on.

I love all Miller signs even though they haven't made John Deere yet.  I learned early on to cut the battery cords and join the signs to run off a PW ZW accessory tap.

Yes! Go with the Buck converter (they're cheap from Amazon) and set the voltage to whatever you want. No more batteries and use any DC power supply over 4 volts to power it. You set the slide switch and forget it since there's no reason to shut it off to conserve battery.

I use all kinds of sources and one readily available on is left over 5 to 12 volt AC adaptors left over from defunct phones and computers. Only recently have I actually bought a purpose-specific  LED power supply pack with higher output for larger arrays.