MTH # 30-1726-1 Clinchfield Challenger Interior cab light lostl0

Boiler board only has a 30-pin connecter.  Interior light should go to pin 27.  You could move it to another pin, if that output was turned on by the chain file, but it will not turn off when moving (like PS2 does).

Master Electronic Engineer    here Jon.

Thank you for the reply sir.                                                       On the left bank of the connecter : 1st wire white ( 29 )  ,2nd wire yellow (27)   , 3rd wire black (25) and then three (23) (21) (19) open cavities.          Would one of those pin openings satisfy the yellow wire move possibly ?

No problem with cab interior being lit always in an unprototypical manner.

Thank you.

19 and 21 likely don’t have any output.  You could try 23.  

@Jon G posted:

19 and 21 likely don’t have any output.  You could try 23.  

Can't wait to try it Jon. Thank you

You nailed it Jon

Thank you very much sir.    A Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours .      God Speed in all your endeavors.

Jon G. ,if I need any more assistance for another mth engine are you OK being called upon or are you pretty busy with all your other activities? 🤔

@Jon G posted:

19 and 21 likely don’t have any output.  You could try 23.  

Perfect operation on the interior cab light Jon......on conventional.........I believe that #23 pin is probably for number boards ....this Railking steamer doesn't have them and the DCS / Remote brain won't accept the command to turn #23 on.

I'll have to figure out how to get this sorted out. 🤔

I might have handled the situation slightly different, especially if I had a fleet of PS3 engines.

As an example, take the extremely common 2-8-0 starter engines. They are great engines- but given the starter nature, are not equipped with cab lights, but since PS3 platform (the boards) are the same, well, I'd just swap boiler boards. In other words, put this possibly damaged board with a dead light output not used in that wiring harness into an engine it didn't matter in. Then I'd swap in what I believed to be a good working board into the engine that needed the output. Obviously only do this if you can confirm board versions (EMI vs non EMI, and in some cases the new steaming whistle enabled boiler board) I'm just saying, if you happen to have such an engine in your fleet, an absolute zero cost way.

Edit- also, you probably want to reflash the chain files because that does program the boiler board and tender board as a "set".

I'm not saying the changing wiring and pinning to a different output is not another way to skin the cat, but it might not get the function right and that's what we are running into.

Yes, fully realize my approach is not for everyone. Put another way, this is where having a mixed fleet of high end PS3 steam, and a couple of starter engines- possibly purchased used or on the cheap when they come up for sale,  parts or "spares" can pay off in the long run.

Otherwise it's expensive, but boards are in stock at this exact moment.

I do have a starter ps3 /2-8-0 and I believe a ps3 /2-8-2 in the ' BONE YARD '  Vernon.   

With the aformentioned Challenger and the bone yard locos , I'm not sure how to id the EMI and non EMI versions.    [ reference my "   MASTER ELECTRONIC ENGINEER " ].

This is really very interesting .  I'll have to open the ' bone yard ' 

This topic covers some of that about the boiler boards.

https://ogrforum.com/topic/question-about-ps3-boards

Edit- this is why I slipped in that comment about wanting to program the board chain files- before using it- just to make sure on the compatibility.

I have in the past seen first hand the incompatible state, where the boiler board shorts both directions of the H-bridge (happened on a repair to a MTH Tinplate steam engine that happened to be a mismatch of boards). So, I am extra careful and use a low current power supply when programming (which really is good practice anyway- a pinched wire or all kinds of problems, you don't want to kill an engine under repair on the bench. Again I made the mistake, found out the hard way, and now have rules etched into memory to not make that mistake again- or at least kick myself when I do it again.

You do not need to reflash the chainfile if already compliant.  The boiler board is flash by the tender board at power up.  G

Challenger boiler board and connecter.  ( known good except for interior cab pin. )

BONEYARD  FIND  2-8-2  boiler board and connecter  ( NOT sure if good .)

Yellow ( #27 )  interior cab pin on the Challenger did not work.

An additional third connecter with blue and grey wires was in the 2-8-2 boiler ......not   present in the Challlenger.

Does the 2-8-2 board look compatible when dropped in the big C  ?

Thanks

@GGG posted:

You do not need to reflash the chainfile if already compliant.  The boiler board is flash by the tender board at power up.  G

Does that 2-8-2 board look OK to try in the Challenger George ?

Yes they are both EMI boiler boards.  G