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Ok so after much debate, I decided to try one of MTH cute little 19th century N&W 2-8-0's on my DCC 2 rail layout. I put the locomotive on the track after selecting the "2 rail and DCC" functions using the switches on the top of the tender.  I turned on the track power, got her to "start up" using the function 3 key, blew the whistle with the function 2 key and then.....kaputt!  Locomotive died and I cannot get anything out of it. Track and pack are fine as all of my other DCC locomotives function correctly, including my MTH CGW F3 (this one is AWESOME in DCC!).  I use the MRC Tech 6 with 6 amps of power on a small 3' x 11' switching pike so I know the power source is not the issue. 

So bottom line, is it possible to blow out the board by just placing the locomotive on a straight tangent of track and never even moving it an inch?  Yes the tender and locomotive were firmly attached via wireless tether. Any way to test this rascal without tracking down a guy with a DCS system and worst case scenario, if the board is smoked, are we talking an arm and leg to fix it? This may be a candidate for a TCS decoder installation, they have great products and a REAL warranty and I have never had any issues with locomotives after installation!  

Cheers,

Cadillac Mike

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One of the guys in our group who is very active in the NMRA said they rate things with two different terms.    These are "compliant" and "compatible".    He said compliant means that the board (decoder) is fully compliant with ALL NMRA standards for DCC.     He said compatible means that the board supports some DCC features but not all.      At the time, he said MTH DCC stuff was compatible, not compliant.     That may have changed by now or there could be a something that the MTH decoder interpreted differently than the DCC command station expected.      Generally this seemed to be that the compatible stuff would run the trains, but not support the fine tuning for speed curves and/or sound and light features.

Cadillac Mike posted:

Interesting, I have used the Tech 6 for years on DCC.  It is great for programming decoders, setting CV's etc.  I know it gives you the option for DC analog OR DCC, I have always used the latter.  

Mike, have you tried doing the DCC reset from the MRC?     SHIFT 9, 9

That will reset the DCC decoder in the loco and assign it #3.

The MRC Tech6 is a cool item, being able to run dc or dc/dcc, as you stated.

Update; the reset worked and the loco ran great for about 20 minutes until it derailed and the pony truck shorted on the steam chest.  Although the track circuit breaker tripped, I guess it was not fast enough because the DCS board is now officially fried. I get nothing at all out of the engine to indicate there is any life.  Oh well, that was the quickest $500 I have ever lost and I think I have made my mind up to stick with traditional DCC decoders I can install myself since I have not had this kind of problem in nearly 20 years. I have to say I am disappointed in this product since it was wiped out in less than two seconds on no more than 14 volts.  

I have a great running MTH Chicago Great Western F3 that seems to be fine.  I think the issue with the steamer was the metal wheels contacting the diecast loco shell. Luckily, I do not have a lot of derailments, the front truck on the 2-8-0 split a switch point which caused the catastrophe.  Unlike brass models, the MTH drive rods do not appear to be articulated so all the drive wheel geometry is not as forgiving.  I think I will stick with electrics,  diesels and 0-6-0's from now on and will probably put a conventional DCC decoder in the MTH steamer at some point when I feel like tinkering. 

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