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I have one of the RailKing dockside switchers from the late 1990s. Good little engine, but has an issue. As it runs at a constant voltage, it will eventually start to slow and come to a stop, unable to run at any voltage. Does this sound like a reversing board/rectifier issue, or the motor failing?

To go past that, because the electronic reversing board is quite old, and it doesn't play well in a command environment, I was giving thought to the idea of converting to DCS using the Proto3 board found in the 44-ton switchers. These require no tether, having come from a diesel, and are apparently significantly smaller than their regular PS3 board conterparts.

Has anyone here looked into this? Are there limitations with this board not found on other PS3 boards?

I'm thinking because these boards aren't sold as conversion kits that I may end up having to sacrifice a 44-ton to get a harness, etc., but that may still be worthwhile to me.

This would be my first conversion, so I'm biting off a tough cookie for my first, I guess. Not too worried about it should I run into difficulty, just want thoughts from those who've previously done command conversions if this would be the right route to get DCS on board. I'm not interested in doing TMCC, though I know @gunrunnerjohn apparently did get one converted in that fashion.

Looking forward to a lively discussion on this one.

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Flat out, I have access to all the official tech info and I would probably not attempt what you are doing- and I have experience and knowledge with PS2 and PS3 repairs and upgrades.

Can you load a steam file on a diesel board and make it chuff- yes- because chuff is based on the tachometer and so because you always have a tach with PS3 (steam, diesel, or electric).

So again, first, get a tach reader bracket on the motor and matching flywheel, but if you think the motor is damaged, then replace the motor.

Next, you need to have the harness and the room to properly install the board and not short it to anything.

I wish you best of luck but there is not enough room in that engine for what you intend to do IMO. Just seems like an awfully expensive experiment.

https://www.mthpartsandsales.c...lists/262?type=lists

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  • mceclip0

Hi Andrew, before you attempt to add any electronics, verify that the motor and gears are in good shape.  Disassemble the loco and look closely at the worm and worm wheel.  If the gears aren't stripped, put a drop of lube on the front and rear motor bearings (a needlepoint oiler will help to reach the bearing on the flywheel side.)

To verify that the motor is still good, disconnect it from whatever circuitry is presently in the loco.  Temporarily wire in a full-wave bridge rectifier and run it on straight DC to see whether it still slows down under continuous use.  That loco is geared low so the motor runs at fairly high RPM.  It might be time for a new motor, but I rate an equal chance that a component on the board is getting hot and failing.

What are your goals for the loco?  If you are JUST looking for independent control and you're not going to use it for switching, you could install the command decoder in a trailing car and connect it to the loco with a tether.  Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress!

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