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just picked up a MTH Premier AS-616 off of the bay.... got it from TRAINZ... seemed like i got one **** of a deal on it... its the 20-2133-1 from 96.

 

although it hasnt arrived with it, ad said it was reset to factory spec's. i'm actually pretty excited about this. never had one with fan driven smoke before. Anyone have any thoughts on this Baldwin? if someones has pictures of there's that be great too. i know later MTH rereleased it under the railking line...

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I have the PRR Railking version with PS2 from 2005 (?). Detail is pretty sparse, even for a Railking piece. Performance wise, mine has been problematic, particularly with the motors and trucks. One big issue I had was with the seams in the "channel" to the smoke unit from the stack becoming undone, dumping smoke fluid all over the interior of the engine. It caused some serious paint damage (stains). I have since removed the smoke unit. 

 

Some folks I know that have the AS-616 have been very happy with theirs. 

 

Below is an older shot of mine. 

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I bought one (new old stock) and had Chuck at Mizell Trains convert it to PS-2.  It runs flawlessly, and like a real Baldwin AS-616, will pull everything I can couple to it.  Some of my other MTH engines can be difficult at times, but not the big Baldwin.  It and an F-M H10-44 that Chuck also converted to PS-2 have been my most dependable engines.

 

The details that could use upgrading are few -- add windshield wipers, replace toy-looking air horns, and, if really serious, new end handrails and associated end details such as m-u receptacles and hoses (Baldwins used the Wabco air throttle).

Originally Posted by Frank Mulligan:

Had the Railking version from 2005 also.  Ran, smoked, and pulled great.  The only issue was running it through the dreaded s-curve.  It would derail but pull itself back on the track.  My fault for having an s-curve.

 

I ended up selling it though as I needed the cash.  I wouldn't sell an engine I had problems with.  I'm not that type.

 

I would NEVER EVER sell a known problematic engine either! Unfortunately, this particular engine has been rather problematic for me over the years. It is actually on the layout now downstairs. My old layout had an 0-31 S-curve....my AS-616 glided through it without a lick of trouble. 

 

I AM however considering selling that Chessie switcher (MTH Railking SW1 with PS2) in the background of my previously posted photo. Runs great and sounds great. Only issue with it is the cab/backup light wire got pinched when I was lubricating the internals and I didn't have supplies at the moment to repair it so I just unplugged it from the board. Once the wire is replaced, it will work fine. Not selling because of a problem...just don't particularly care for model switchers...but I love them in the real world....go figure!)

 

 

Andrew: Good luck with the new engine. Report back once it arrives! Replacing the battery with a BCR is good advice. I second that recommendation. 

Last edited by SJC
Originally Posted by Andrew Lawrence:

they have batterys?

 

add said "This item has been quick bench tested. This engine has been reset to factory"

 

should get it next week... i have bought an item from Trainz before and was happy, not a locomotive though.. just jumped at a chance to be able to afford a premier unit.

OK, you need a quick primer on the original version of Protosound, commonly referred to as Proto-1. These systems incorporate a rechargeable 8.4 volt battery, which is essential for it to operate. If you try to run the engine with a discharged battery, it won't work right and could possibly suffer damage to the electronics. Some of these problems can be fixed by the end user; some require a trip to a service facility. 

 

In order to be sure you have a properly charged battery, you need to either remove the battery and charge it on an external charger (which involves removing the shell) or let it sit on the track for an hour or so with the voltage set at 10-12 or more. If you are charging the battery on the track, DO NOT try to run it until you've charged for at least an hour. The rechargeable batteries in these things are NiCd batteries and if it is the original battery from when the unit was built in the 90's, it's most likely well past its service life and won't hold a charge. 

 

There are 3 options to replace the battery. First is just to get another NiCd battery. If you do that, you need to be absolutely sure you have an 8.4 volt battery, not a 7.2. Unfortunately, rechargeables in the 9v package come in both 7.2 and 8.4 flavors. The smaller unit will not operate a Protosound unit. The best sources I know for batteries are Radio Shack, Harbor Freight, and various online battery sellers. The second option is a NiMH cell, again 8.4 volt. NiMH cells are slightly more expensive than NiCd cells, and superior in every way. The final option, and the best and most expensive, is a gadget called a BCR (Battery-Capacitor Replacement). This is a bank of capacitors inside a 9v battery shell. Every time you fire up the locomotive, you just wait a minute or so for the capacitors to charge, then you're good to go for your operating session. A BCR costs about 25 bucks. A guy in Pennsylvania makes them, I forget his name and company offhand but you can google something like "Protosound BCR" and you'll find him quick enough. 

 

The "quick bench test' at Trainz isn't a full operating test. I know that from experience; last engine I bought that had been "quick bench tested" took me 3 hours to get it working right. Nothing serious wrong with it, just a whole bunch of diddely-squat that added up to time spent fixing it. 

 

I can't over-emphasize how important it is to be sure any Proto-1 engine has a charged battery or BCR in it before trying to run it. Proto-1 works fine when it is treated right, but is utterly unforgiving of a dead battery. Here's another website with lots and lots of info on Proto-1 and other QSI systems. http://www.the-scaled-tin-rail.com/

Southwest Hiawatha, thanks for all the great infor on the batterys and proto-1 system... i didnt actually see your reply untill today... i would of been more careful had i read it...

 

got home from work today about 3, saw the box sitting one the livingroom floor... my wife had the day off, so she was out back on the swing... so i thought before i'd dig into the train i'd go out back and sit with here... so i'm sitting there, she's saying the grass is tickling my feet, you should mow it (hint, hint)... so had to mow the grass... THAN i though i'd get to open the box... nope not yet... had level some dirt from a new telophone pole that was put in... THAN, put all new brick edging in the garden... Finially after 3 hours of only thinking about the box i got to open it! had about 5 minutes to run it on the track before we had to go to dinner... so on the track it went!

 

put it on gave it power, cant get over how loud the smoke fan is! i thought it was something wrong with the sound at first. never having an engine with protosounds before i ran it around the ceiling loop acouple of times, pushed the horn/bell button didnt hear anything... ran it enough to get the smoke unit to blow really good! LOVE IT! so i was a bit disapointed that i didnt hear anything, so i looked on the bottom thinking there was a sound on/off switch, found the turny knob thing, it was turned down the whole way... so back on the track it went.. gave the engine alittle power, and engine fired up. bell would ding every couple seconds. neutral reverse forward it makes that gear clunk sound and rev's horn sounds great.. I will put my camera on a gronola tomarrow and film it, that way everyone can see it!  i'm pretty amazed by it, only ran it a couple minutes, i'll report more tomarrow when the wife's at work

2012-05-04_18-59-26_97

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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