MTH PS-1 Engine won't run

Try the reset chip.

That reset chip only works for the 3 clangs of death. 

If you didn't let the BCR charge up, the engine may have deselected. Most likely can be reset with a different chip that a MTH tech has and knows how to use.

I always start PS1 engines up and let them charge at 12 volts for at least a minute or more and then shut off track power to see if the engine sounds play for at least 6 to 7 seconds. If not you should wait at least 30 seconds for the PS1 board to shut off before applying track power again.  The boards will deselect with 5 to 6 volt battery charge, if you apply power again before the PS1 board shuts off.

The reset chip is ONLY for the three clank issue, it will do nothing for this problem.  Techs have several other reset possibilities, and then it's time for a new processor board. 

The fact that it chuffs a bunch sounds like you "might" have a problem with the tether.  The chuffs are based on motor voltage, if the tether motor wire breaks, any drive to the motors will go way up as there's no load.  This results in a lot of chuffing.  Try wiggling the tether and at the same time hitting the direction button and see if you can get it to move.

If the problem is that the engine deselected, you can get a new replacement chip from MTH to keep this from happening again.

John may be right about the tether. I would check that first.

He's not getting the three clanks, so it's not the classic deselected engine issue.

If you are certain that the battery and/or BCR has sufficient charge, you might want to consider testing your existing PS1 chip by carefully swapping it with another PS1 chip from a different Proto-1 locomotive if available.  IIRC a diesel chip will serve the same testing purpose, only it will obviously sound like a diesel w/ ramping rpm's but no chuff.  This way you might be able to narrow the problem.

I'd go for the simple fixes first, check the tether.  There are times that swapping PS/1 chips will cause you issues you didn't have.  Don't ask me how I know this.   There are different versions of the PS/1 top boards, and all of them are NOT equal.

Dale K posted:

Any suggetions?  Or is this engine ready for the scrap yard?

Thanks,

Dale

 

Scrap yard - no. Replacing/upgrading electronics? If the suggested fixes do not work - yes. PS1 wasn't all that great, anyway. A simple new rev unit will get it operating, even if you would have no sounds.

Plus - there should be used PS1 "guts" available on eBay. 

The fast chuffing does make it sound like possibly the tether. Another thing to consider is that this engine is on the list of engines that had a software problem that caused the engine board to go into De-select mode. It will not cycle out of reset after startup. The only solution is to order a new EE Prom chip from MTH. I only ever had a few of these way back then and don't recall them allowing the chuffing sounds. An MTH Service Center should have a good chip that they can install to see if it corrects the issue. They were giving us an F3 sound chip for testing these. You need a chip puller and have to be careful not to bend any of the pins when removing and replacing these.

Good luck; Forest

D500 posted:

Scrap yard - no. Replacing/upgrading electronics? If the suggested fixes do not work - yes. PS1 wasn't all that great, anyway. A simple new rev unit will get it operating, even if you would have no sounds.

I always marvel that your "improvement" ends up removing functionality from the locomotive!  Do you have stock in someplace like Dallee?  Why would you eliminate the usually good PS/1 sound instead of just fixing the board?  I think most folks that have PS/1 locomotives actually like the sound feature.

GRJ, not everyone is a big fan of all that functionality. Especially when it causes issues. Yeah, you can replace the boards and get all of those features back, but sometimes you have to ask yourself if it's worth the price. Those boards can sometimes cost as much or more than the whole locomotive cost. When those original parts aren't available anymore then it will cost even more to fix it later. I personally just change out the PS boards and install conventional parts when they fail. The sounds are nice but I have been enjoying this hobby for four decades without them, so I really don't feel I am losing much by downgrading. I am not bashing you here. Just providing a different perspective. You have helped many folks here, myself included and your help is always very much appreciated.

I get that Mike, but I suspect a majority of folks that have such locomotives would be disappointed to lose the sounds.  As for the cost of PS/1 boards, many of us have them left over from command upgrades, so they're typically available for much less than the MSRP from MTH.  FWIW, last time I checked, you can still buy the PS/1 boards from MTH, though I have no idea how much longer that will last.

I get quite a few PS/1 locomotives in for repair, and very few people have decided that the sounds were "optional", many of the complaints are about sound issues.

I gotta stick with John again on this point. In this case, Dale K said nothing about gutting his PS1 engine of its functional elements.

I think people should keep their preferences out of it when discussing a repair of this nature.

Jim R. posted:

I gotta stick with John again on this point. In this case, Dale K said nothing about gutting his PS1 engine of its functional elements.

I think people should keep their preferences out of it when discussing a repair of this nature.

Dale K did not mention one way or another about what was important to him with regards to the features of this locomotive or if he wanted to put that kind of money into repairing it. Perhaps if he is willing to scrap it, then he is open to finding an alternative to repairing it. Since he didn't follow up with any feedback to anyone's replies, how are we to know he isn't considering the other options presented? Who are you to tell anyone on this forum what information is acceptable or not acceptable when replying to a query? There are other options available, whether you or anyone else likes them or not. I will continue to offer my input on these posts as long as I feel they may be of help.

Try powering the locomotive up, again, setting 10-12 volts on the transformer.  Have this locomotive ONLY on the track.  A test track, or isolated siding, would be best.  Do the sounds come up?  After sitting about 30 or more seconds, push the direction button and listen carefully.  Do you hear a 'click'?  If you hear a click, that is one of the two direction relays on the processor board.  Let us know what you get.

Bruce

First, thanks to everyone that replied to my post - my apologies for not replying sooner, but the Holidays sort of got in the way.  I appreciate all suggestions - even about making a repair that eliminates some or all of the original sound features.  While that is not something I want to do, at least I know that is an option.   Here's what else I've gleaned from all the replies:

1. The MTH Reset chip probably won't work for my problem, so I won't get one and that saved me $30 - thanks!

2. Swapping chips with one of my other 2 PS1 engines is a good idea but it sounds like it might cause more problems than fixing anything (GUNRUNNERJOHN - can you be more specific about what might happen if I try that?)

3. I've checked the tether and it seems to be fine.  BTW - the "chuffing" that I hear after about 15 minutes on 10V is a SLOW chuff - maybe one every other second.  I called MTH about that and the tech said he never heard of that and to call back when a more experienced tech was on duty (which I hope to do tomorrow).

4. I've looked on eBay for replacement PS1 boards and wasn't able to find any - so if anyone has one to sell or knows or where I can get one for my specific K4 Steam Engine (30-1115-1), please let me know.

5. I've tried setting it on the track (by itself) with about 10 volts on it for 15 minutes, and the startup sounds do not come on.  When i hit the direction button, i do hear relays clicking in the tender.

6. I've considered an upgrade to PS3, but from what I've been told, that will run about $300.  I really don't want to spend more than $100 on this engine (there are other issues with it, like the cowcatcher that broke off when it slammed into an old Lionel switch and I had to reattach with JB Weld).   So at this point, if the MTH Tech can't help me, I might put my repair money to a new PS3 K-4.

Thanks again to everyone for the help and suggestions.

Dale K

Use a Williams reverse unit, you'll lose the sounds and remote couplers but still be able to operate your loco.  People sell them here for less than that Auction site.

I'd spend the money on a new K-4.

Dale K posted:

First, thanks to everyone that replied to my post - my apologies for not replying sooner, but the Holidays sort of got in the way.  I appreciate all suggestions - even about making a repair that eliminates some or all of the original sound features.  While that is not something I want to do, at least I know that is an option.   Here's what else I've gleaned from all the replies:

1. The MTH Reset chip probably won't work for my problem, so I won't get one and that saved me $30 - thanks!

My bet is still on replacing the EE PROM chip. This is a know documented issue. This is not a reset chip. It is the original software but with the deselect feature that causes this problem removed. Order part # AI-0000037 then Part# AE-3011151. It is $30.00 plus shipping. The first part # is the chip and the second part # is the Sound set (K-4) which MTH will load into it. You must always order the sound set to go with it. Since you seem to be reluctant to do this it would probably be best if you find a Technician that can. He can also test the tender harness while he has it in.

If you get a used board and it is from the same time era as the one you are replacing the same problem can occur if you use the chip that is causing the problem from your existing board .

Forest.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'd go for the simple fixes first, check the tether.  There are times that swapping PS/1 chips will cause you issues you didn't have.  Don't ask me how I know this.   There are different versions of the PS/1 top boards, and all of them are NOT equal.

I have to ask. I can see a problem if you put a 4 meg chip in a board set up for 2 meg. Never did this so not sure what it would do. Could you be more specific into what issues you had.  If he replaces the chip with one from MTH for this engine their shouldn't be any issues.

Thank you, Forest

Being that the cow catcher has already been broken and repaired and the engine is not in perfect condition maybe do as John said above and Just buy a new one. Ps-3 if possible. If you get a ps-2 stay away from anything made from years 2000-2004.