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MTH RK Scale F-3 ABA Question

T thestumperOGR Forum Member
Hi all,

I have an MTH RK Scale F-3 ABA set on order and I was hoping to run it with just A-B on my layout. It would appear that there is a connection between the units near the coupler that I am assuming controls lights and such to the unpowered A unit at the rear of the consist. Am I going to have issues removing the unpowered A? What becomes of the dangling cable? Maybe my eyes are playing tricks and there is no "cable" but the pics in the catalog seem pretty clear. I'm just wondering how others have dealt with this if it is indeed a problem.

Thanks in advance!!!

-Eric

PS: I have NO idea when they will arrive; I might not even care by that point Smile
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S SJCOGR Forum Member
Eric: I purchased a Western Maryland F3 ABA (Railking Scale) over the summer, while I haven't run it much, it is one of my favorite engines.

You are correct in regards to the function of the tether. There are directional lights and operating coupler on the front of the dummy A unit. Be advised only the A units have operating couplers on the front. All other couplers are non-operating. You should not have any problems removing the dummy A. Off hand and without looking at mine, there is a socket on the back of the dummy B unit. The Dummy A unit tether plugs in there. In English: no loose tether to worry about as the loose tether on the other end of the B unit is plugged into the powered A.

Actually, this is my second powered A unit. My original one wouldn't light up the dummy A unit nor would the coupler on the dummy work - it was an issue I didn't realize until I got home from my LHS as I only tested the powered unit prior to purchase. While you shouldn't have the issue I did, it wouldn't hurt to test the entire ABA prior to leaving your LHS if possible. If I did, it would have saved me a day and about 2 hours driving time! Regardless, when I arrived back at my LHS (Catoctin Mountain Trains), the owner Paul, had a brand new powered A unit sitting on the counter waiting for me. After testing to make sure all was OK, back home I went.

As mentioned, I enjoy the engine greatly. Only other thing is my particular set has a lot of drag in the dummy units (which are very well lubricated) causing pulling power to be quite weak. A buddy has the same set and doesn't have any issues. Perhaps mine is a fluke but it is fine with me since I only use it to pull a 4-5 car train and nothing more which is about its limit in power and size on my layout.

Enjoy it.
M MUEagleOGR Forum Member
No kidding!!! 3 cars?!? Razz

I'd be screwed Matt...!!!



quote:
Originally posted by SJC:
Eric: I purchased a Western Maryland F3 ABA (Railking Scale) over the summer, while I haven't run it much, it is one of my favorite engines.

You are correct in regards to the function of the tether. There are directional lights and operating coupler on the front of the dummy A unit. Be advised only the A units have operating couplers on the front. All other couplers are non-operating. You should not have any problems removing the dummy A. Off hand and without looking at mine, there is a socket on the back of the dummy B unit. The Dummy A unit tether plugs in there. In English: no loose tether to worry about as the loose tether on the other end of the B unit is plugged into the powered A.

Actually, this is my second powered A unit. My original one wouldn't light up the dummy A unit nor would the coupler on the dummy work - it was an issue I didn't realize until I got home from my LHS as I only tested the powered unit prior to purchase. While you shouldn't have the issue I did, it wouldn't hurt to test the entire ABA prior to leaving your LHS if possible. If I did, it would have saved me a day and about 2 hours driving time! Regardless, when I arrived back at my LHS (Catoctin Mountain Trains), the owner Paul, had a brand new powered A unit sitting on the counter waiting for me. After testing to make sure all was OK, back home I went.

As mentioned, I enjoy the engine greatly. Only other thing is my particular set has a lot of drag in the dummy units (which are very well lubricated) causing pulling power to be quite weak. A buddy has the same set and doesn't have any issues. Perhaps mine is a fluke but it is fine with me since I only use it to pull a 4-5 car train and nothing more which is about its limit in power and size on my layout.

Enjoy it.
Mark V. SpadaroMark V. SpadaroOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBERMEMORIAL SUPPORTER
quote:
As mentioned, I enjoy the engine greatly. Only other thing is my particular set has a lot of drag in the dummy units (which are very well lubricated) causing pulling power to be quite weak. A buddy has the same set and doesn't have any issues.


Have you coupled the dummies to a different engine to verify that the unpowered units are the source of the drag, or alternatively, have you used the power unit alone to verify it has appropriate pulling power?
scott.smithscott.smithOGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
I checked my RK Chessie ABA. The Powered A has a female end. The B unit has the male cord and the female receptacle at the other end. The unpowered A unit has a male cord.So it will be like this:
A UNIT with receptacle ______cord from B unit-receptacle ______cord from unpowered A unit

So if you are running AB you will only have the receptacle and of course a standard coupler. If you are running only a powered A you would just a receptacle and a normal coupler at the end.

The bottom line is that you have nothing to worry about. I have two RK Scale F3's (Chessie, NYC Lightening Stripe) and several Premier F's. Your going to
love your new engine.



Scott Smith
MA Michigan & Ohio Valley LinesOGR Forum Member
Your going to love your RK F3 set. Great solid runner and can pull a lot of cars. Very good sounds...mine has PS2 passenger station sounds. I've run it as intended and as both an AB and just an A. If leaving the dummy A out of the consist, you loose the ability to fire the rear electro coupler for switching.

If you are always going to run it as an AB set, you may want to tackle the job of putting the the non-powered A unit's guts into your B unit...if you want to be able to use the electro coupler.
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