MTH tender swap

I have heard, never, ever do this... That said, I think it would be best to contact one of our resident techs to have them look at it for you. However, it's most important, since there's a wide range of proto versions developed over the years, to have a model number first, then folks can help diagnose what's going on.

You do not want to do that.  You really need to know the configuration of the boards and harnesses are the same to swap a tender for MTH.  3V versus 5V, Mux no mux, where battery is, where boards are.

What is your tender issues?  Typically it is the ebay seller that you deal with, unless they are uncooperative.  G

@GGG posted:

You do not want to do that.

What he said, you're asking for trouble!

I don't know why you're stuck with it, eBay is very "buyer-centric", it's very likely a complaint there will get you satisfaction.

Yes normally EBAY will stick up for the buyer but there’s an issue with the way I issued the request to return and now they’re telling me I’m stuck with it I’m still trying to wait for a supervisor but the issue with the tender is that the marker lights do not work the reverse light cycles on and off as it should but the LEDs for the markers are not working. Thank you guys for your comments and concern

If it's just the marker lights, that's probably not a huge repair, if you want to keep it, you may be able to revive it.

Thank you John it looks like I might be stuck with it it runs really smooth and it’s a shame that the tender has the issue with the lights and The wiring inside looks like it’s all been played with but the engine ran super super smooth. How can I test those lights individually to see if they’re working or not

Ewww! I wanted all Vanderbilt tenders (coal), as a distinction for my RR.  You have to convert everything to "conventional"?  And now all this undesired "tech" disappears with mfr. like street horse troughs, and was not even compatible with other same brand? Hope there is enough of a market for somebody to generate generic guts so all these once expensive engines can play nice.

@Michael bee posted:

Thank you John it looks like I might be stuck with it it runs really smooth and it’s a shame that the tender has the issue with the lights and The wiring inside looks like it’s all been played with but the engine ran super super smooth. How can I test those lights individually to see if they’re working or not

For a quick test, just take a 1k (or higher value, up to around 5k) resistor.  Place it in series with your transformer output and connect to the marker LED's.  If they light, they're good.  If they don't, then they're bad.

Since you mention the wiring looks "played with", maybe a few pictures of the connection to the board would help us here.

Thanks John I’m assuming performing the test with the tender light harness removed just to be clear. EBAY made it official last night that I am the owner of this item whether I like it or not solely for the reason that I clicked the wrong button during the return process which gave the seller the ability to decline The return which according to EBAY is not reversible. So moving on from this point I will try to get better pictures but I’ll send the ones that I have now

Except for those big hunks of electric tape, the wiring looks original.  I have never seen MTH use tape in any locomotive and it might be hiding the problem.  In any event, I would pull out the tape to see and clean up.  Go with John’s solution to check the lights and, yes disconnect the harness.  John and George (GGG) are the experts, so follow their advice.

Thanks will do

Hi all , I ordered up some resistors but I’m curious why do I need the resistors to test the tender marker light harness. I would just imagine that they should be made to handle the same wattage that the train would run on.

The ONLY connection for track power is the input power to the PS/2 board, EVERYTHING ELSE runs on regulated power of some sort.  In the case of the incandescent bulbs, they are 6V bulbs.  In the case of the LED's, they have a special current limited output designed to power the LED's.

Connecting track power to any of the lighting will result in blown bulbs in a heartbeat.

Are you sure you don't want to take this to someone for service?

If you have another MTH PS-2 engine.  5V or 3 V with tender marker that works, take your tender shell and plug the marker into the working tender marker plug.  Power up the engine and see if they come on.  If not LED are bad, or polarity reversed.  PS-3 markers are different then ps-2.  Red/black wires swapped in the plug. So maybe someone swapped in the wrong part.

Conversely, you can plug your known good marker LED from the tender shell into your new tender plug and see if they come on.  If they do the board is good in the engine you just bought.  G

I don’t have a good reliable repair person or shop near me in NJ. I’ll fiddle a bit more with it. In any advent if I cannot get the markers to light could I run my own light harness bypassing the factory harness?

GGG I followed your advice and swapped the marker light harness from a different tender. The donor harness lit up . So with that introduction I’ve knowledge leads me to believe that possibly just the LEDs are burnt out, I’ve never had an issue with marker lights before on any train but I guess I’m happy that it’s just that and not a board issue. I’m in the middle of contacting Midge at MTH waiting for her response on a harness. If a harness is unavailable what do you guys suggest

I have the LEDs and harness in stock.  So did you look at the wire color at the 2 pin plug of the LEDs  does it match the set that worked?  If so you just need a new LED set.  If they are swapped in position, that probably is a PS-3 or other manufacture set.

Just to be clear you do not need the harness, just the LED set.   The harness is the 8 pin plug that attaches to the board, and has the wires with 2 pin connector.  G

Correct the 8 pin harness is not needed , just the two pin plug  with black and red wires with two red leds is what I need. I talked to Midge and she was helpful but needed some extra time locating the exact part.