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i have a williams brass up challenger cab. no.2950-i had to have the number boards on the smokebox front reppaced with a set from mth no.3976.to have the no.boards match cab. no. i need to replace the last 2 digits on the front no.boards from 3976 to 3950.

i know they are a lot of forum members with a lot of know how-i do not really want to repainbt the cab no. to 3976.cause i would have to repaint back of tender also.easiest solution is to replace the last 2 no.s on the small no. boards on front-thanks joe

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I removed the numberboard numbers from my RailKing imperial 0-6-0 with a Q-tip and alcohol, I then cut out some numbers from a decal set I had:

 

 

The numbers on the smokebox are from a rub-on lettering set.

 

I would remove the entire number, unless you have steadier hands than I do, and do the whole number over.

 

The hardest thing was getting them out of the headlight housing.

Joseph,

 

I was going to say look into the Microscale line, but it looks like they're getting out of the O-scale decal business as they only have a handful of O-scale decals listed.

 

I don't know what the UP numberboard numbers looked like so I can't help, but you could probably contact a couple of places to see about getting some custom decals made if none are commercially available.

 

ELS makes some nice decals:

 

http://home.mindspring.com/~elstrains/index.html

 

Also, ProtoCraft, I have some of their Seaboard decals and like them fine:

 

http://www.protocraft.com/category.cfm?Categoryid=20

 

Another place is Jerry Glow Decals:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals.html

 

You may have to send these places some artwork or they may have exactly what you need.  I'd email them and see.

 

You could look for some rub-on type lettering at art type places, take a photo of the numbers (or the engine) and compare to what they have.

 

I honestly think the days of scratch-building are almost over, not much point in it if you can't get the decals to finish the model.

 

One more thought, you could try making some yourself.  Getting the correct FONT is the biggest hurdle, but most home printers these days give you pretty good results.  I've made a couple of decals for some of my Seaboard cars, I have an Epson Workforce 500 printer that makes excellent decals and photos.  All you need is the correct FONT, some decal paper, and some Testors Glosscoat to seal the paper after you print.  The problem with making your own has always been printing decals that have white in them, not too many printers that are available these days can print white.

 

This place sells white and clear decal paper:

 

http://www.beldecal.com/inkjet_decals.cfm

 

Hope this helps!

 

BOB-THANKS FOR YOUR references onb custom decal making-i did try microscale decals-nothing for o gauge steamers-i sat back and thought about guys who custom paint trains.i checked out jeffs custom trains paint web site and sent him a email

describing what i need-i will not send engine out-williams brass articulates are the worst to ship without damage-i was t5hing of cutting a template out of thin cardboard and sending that out-you said you used alcohol tp clear od no. out-you must have masked off the no. board holders so paint would not come off right-when you said you had left over dcals to do the fine job you did on your steamer-i said you have luck and skill.how any guys would have a couple scrap decals that tiny to do the job you did.

i know a place in nevada that does custom work-fantastic-all kinds-trainemporium.com.i know they make custom decals-not cheap-who ever said they hobby was cheap-frustrating-thank god for this forum and people like you.joe

Joe,

 

I was able to pop out the clear numberboards while I had my engine apart, something I might not do to a big engine like the Challenger, but it would depend on how much stuff had to be taken apart.  Does the smokebox front come off?  If so you may be able to remove it and take the boards out easily.

 

Honestly, putting the small numbers on the boards was tricky, but doable.  I think I positioned them one at a time using a toothpick.

 

I wonder if you could scrape the old numbers off with a sharp Xacto blade (or even with the Q-tip, then put new numbers on a piece of very thin, clear plastic and lay it over the existing boards?  That way you could get them positioned right and not have to fool with them while on the engine.  But removing the old numbers and applying new, with the boards in place, would be the best way to go (just don't mar up the engines finish).

 

Ed Reutling had some decals made by ELS for the both of us when we built our Whalebelly Hopper cars:

 

 

and I made my own for my 2 OK Engines passenger cras:

 

 

and for this Weaver 2-Bay Covered Hopper I repainted for Seaboard:

 

 

Solid colored decals are easy (especially black) if you have the correct FONT.

 

Good luck!

Any Office Max store can make a 8.5" x 11" transparency sheet from your original on a  piece of paper. Enlarge or reduce your numbers to the correct size on a black background on your original sheet of paper, do the transparency sheet and then cut them out with an x-acto to fit your numberboards or headlight housing. Way easier than messing with decals. Here's an example for you. Font style is Franklin Gothic Medium (bold face selected).

   

Numberboard

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BOB-THERE WAS  a source list i beleive fot this forum topic-i beleive when they changed this whole set up they left it out

good news-i found a person who has decals -rare for the challenger -i need-20.00 a set-right now a bargain-problem-since i do not have the skill you have-and it is only 1 set of no's -how do i get rid of old no's safely and easily-and place new ones on-i was thing stupid-blacking out old no with sharpie fine point-no way i will disasemble front of engine aND TAKE the no. boards out-it is the correct way but not the joe way-i do have the dexterity and patience and steadiness i use to.i can tell bob you have skill and know how-joe

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
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