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I'm repairing an MTH 30-11012 crossing gate with a VERY blown board. So far I found the 5 volt regulator U1 (7805) putting out 9.1v with an input of 11.6v. I also found an electrolytic cap (C1, 100uf 25v) that popped it's guts out. I'm also going to replace the 555 timer chip U2 just cuz it's probably blown as well (both LEDs are on steady, no flashing.) Schematic below, courtesy of @stan2004

Schematic 30-11012

These are pretty standard parts except they're not! They are much smaller than the average parts I'm accustomed to ordering/replacing. See the drawing below for exact physical dimensions. I normally go to Digikey for such hard to find parts, but after about 20 minutes of searching, I couldn't come up with replacements.

Anyone out there familiar with Digikey, Mouser, etc. who could lend a hand determining which of the many P/N's listed (at Digikey) would work? Sure would be appreciated! Thanks!

George

See the pic below for dimensions, plus a few pics of what each part looks like.

Cap and Regltr and 555

IMG_6056IMG_6054IMG_6057

Take a close look at the quality of soldering in the picture above. It would appear these were all hand-assembled!



IMG_6062

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  • IMG_6054
  • IMG_6057
  • IMG_6062
  • Cap and Regltr and 555
  • Schematic 30-11012
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@Vernon Barry, you are 100% correct! It does not make sense to spend $$ and time on a board repair when it can be bought new for such a small amount of money.

However, this situation is a bit different in that I bought the crossing gate for parts. It's physically intact except for the gate itself. So buying a whole new board doesn't really make sense in this case. Plus, this is my entertainment. While others work on cars or build model kits as hobbies, I enjoy small mechanical and electronic repairs that are just a bit beyond my knowledge or skill level. Being in my mid-70s and long retired, I find this type of repair to be mind-healthy and satisfying, to a point. My other pastimes are geocaching and beating my head against a brick wall!

All of that said, I will most likely end up buying several variations of each of the different components since they are all inexpensive - and DigiKey seems more than willing to pick and ship very small orders!! The prefixes and suffixes are the hardest part for me, e.g. what's the difference between an NE555D and an NE555DT? That's probably easy enough to look up, but when the list of candidate part numbers occupies a couple of pages @ 50 part numbers per page, that becomes a daunting task. While there may be some small benefit in learning the subtle differences, I was hoping someone would have that knowledge, and just point me in the right direction.

George

This is the size of the NE555 on the board.

@GeoPeg posted:
All of that said, I will most likely end up buying several variations of each of the different components since they are all inexpensive - and DigiKey seems more than willing to pick and ship very small orders!! The prefixes and suffixes are the hardest part for me, e.g. what's the difference between an NE555D and an NE555DT? That's probably easy enough to look up, but when the list of candidate part numbers occupies a couple of pages @ 50 part numbers per page, that becomes a daunting task. While there may be some small benefit in learning the subtle differences, I was hoping someone would have that knowledge, and just point me in the right direction.

Since you said that one of your hobbies is beating your head against the wall, component datasheets are the perfect place to exercise your hobby to the fullest!

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  • mceclip0

@gunrunnerjohn amen!!!

@Mellow Hudson Mike that info you supplied (plus John's affirmation) have narrowed that search quite a bit, i.e. SOIC package is what I'm after. As to the electrical specs, I'm guessing almost any of the variations will work, so I'll order a couple of several different types. Actually despite pages of 555 timer chips, it seems just a couple are actually available, Gee, that narrows things down a bit!

Next issue I will have is component removal - the timer chip is so small I don't think cutting his legs off may be an option. We'll see.

Now on to the electrolytic caps - those are the smallest I have seen.

And if you're still reading this, do either of you know what the package name is for the 7805 regulator? It is similar to a TO-220 case, but with the heat sink tab  cut very low. It is also only about 6.5mm wide, whereas every TO-220 case I can find is 10mm wide. Also the lead width is only 0.635mm wide - very narrow leads with matching tiny through holes on the pcb.

George

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