All:
Can someone tell me the part number (or where I might find them) for the female connectors to these SPST switches?
Many thanks,
George
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AFAIK, they don't exist. They're solder terminals with a hole in them. They're meant to solder wires to.
I agree that soldering is best. However, I think 187 series Faston connectors could be used by opening up the end of the contact area a bit with a screw driver to fit over these terminals. If opened up a little too much, they can be closed back up to snug with gentle application of pliers.
Link here to 187 series Faston Connectors>>> 187 Faston
I find a lot of those little 3A switches to be pretty flimsy internally and easy to fry when soldering.
But I solder them anyway.
John
@Craftech posted:I find a lot of those little 3A switches to be pretty flimsy internally and easy to fry when soldering.
But I solder them anyway.
John
Don’t solder them with a blow torch,…….☺️….
You need the right temperature, and the right solder to keep from melting or overcooking components like this…..
tin the tips on the switch, ….this should be fast, and cool quickly. Tin your wire, let it cool, then attach the wire to the pin, and a quick touch of the iron makes a perfect joint……
trying to wrap wire that isn’t pre-tinned around a device like this then soldering everything makes a lot more heat then necessary……if you’re cooking components, you need to look at your practices, …..I only say this out of experience, as I’ve cooked my fair share before I figured it out,……😉
Pat
Thanks all. Problem solved.
George
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@G3750 posted:Thanks all. Problem solved.
George
I will point out it's easy to develop poor connections with stuff like this as opposed to soldering. Those connectors aren't really designed specifically for the switch connections, so you're shooting the dice. 
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I will point out it's easy to develop poor connections with stuff like this as opposed to soldering. Those connectors aren't really designed specifically for the switch connections, so you're shooting the dice.
Not to mention, it’s way cheaper, quicker, & as you eluded to, a better connection than connectors like this…..
Pat
Thank you John and Pat. I will definitely consider that. Unfortunately, my soldering skills are way out of date.
So for now, I will twist the wire around the hole in switch spades and wrap with electrical tape.
George
@G3750 posted:So for now, I will twist the wire around the hole in switch spades and wrap with electrical tape.
George, PLEASE don't do that! That is probably the most unreliable connection I can imagine! The crimp connectors would be better, but not nearly as reliable as soldering. I believe there's a special place down below for people that wrap connections in black electrical tape, that stuff creates a huge mess after a few months in place! 
Soldering really isn't that hard with a decent soldering iron, I'd recommend a little practice and have at it. You'll get better with a little practice, and it's a skill that's pretty essential for a model railroad.
OK, thank you for the advice. Might be time to re-learn how to solder.
George
@G3750 posted:OK, thank you for the advice. Might be time to re-learn how to solder.
You'll thank me later.
@G3750 posted:All:
Can someone tell me the part number (or where I might find them) for the female connectors to these SPST switches?
Many thanks,
George
I've soldered hundreds of these and never overheated one. One thing I do in general is use a hot iron...generally 650 F. That way I'm off it before the whole switch heats up.
With a plastic bodied switches, I make a heat sink by placing a needle nose pliers next to the switch body and putting a rubber band on the pliers handle to hold it before soldering. This is how I soldered over a hundred cheap Radio Shack mini push button switches, with plastic bodies, used on my control panels.
A small 30 to 40 watt pencil soldering iron, the ones that look like a 50s kids old wood burning irons, would do the job with less heat.
Charlie
The best soldering iron for almost any soldering is a temperature controlled iron, the afore mentioned Hakko fx-888d or a Weller WLSKD701A are good choices. The exception is doing heavy work, then I pull out the Weller soldering gun.
John
For heavy soldering I get out the propane blow torch with a push button igniter that heats a copper soldering tip.
Charlie
@Choo Choo Charlie posted:John
For heavy soldering I get out the propane blow torch with a push button igniter that heats a copper soldering tip.
Charlie
😳😮
Pat
@Choo Choo Charlie posted:John
For heavy soldering I get out the propane blow torch with a push button igniter that heats a copper soldering tip.
Charlie
I haven't had occasion with the model trains to use anything like that. I do have a propane "turbo" torch that I use for plumbing, works great for that.
