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Hi every one, after 20 years I decided to get back into trains as I was getting burnt out on farm toys, so my question is what's your openion on track cleaners my layout is very meak at 30sq ft. But I'd like to have something to clean the track. I'm useing mth realtrax. Thanks in advance Matt M.
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Aside from advice to use the search function...NEW dialog on track cleaners would be a benifit to many.  I too am interested in peoples opinions on them and value their input to base decisions on.   I'm sure that most subjects have been covered before but often new dialog reveals new opinions and ideas.  Besides without dialog the forum will die into a information depository. 

 

So lets hear about the track cleaners 'cause I need one too.

 

-rog

Originally Posted by RogerC:

Aside from advice to use the search function...NEW dialog on track cleaners would be a benifit to many.  I too am interested in peoples opinions on them and value their input to base decisions on.   I'm sure that most subjects have been covered before but often new dialog reveals new opinions and ideas.  Besides without dialog the forum will die into a information depository. 

 

So lets hear about the track cleaners 'cause I need one too.

 

-rog

Sorry but, I recommend using the SEARCH function, as there have been EXTREMELY informative discussions related to track cleaning, within just the last few WEEKS. I mean, how difficult can it be, anyway?

I own an assortment of track cleaning cars including a couple of hand made ones.  They all work - some better than others.  But in reality, as Spence mentioned, nothing beats cleaning the tracks with a rag and some denatured alcohol.  Still, I enjoy creating a MOW train filled with various track cleaners. There is something fun about using toys to maintain toys.

 

My favorite track cleaners are my pair of centerlines. I recently saw a thread where DTI989 (https://ogrforum.com/t...aning---need-to-know) had a pair of these cars that he painted and detailed to look like actual MOW cars - very cool and on my to to do list.

Last edited by abbrail

I will post pics and my opinions on ones I have (track cleaning cars).  A separate post to be done 'later'.

 

I would start with denatured alcohol and some old (clean) wash clothes.  Fluid can be purchased at Home Depot.

 

Use some elbow grease.  Wipe, wipe, wipe.  May not take very long to do.  If permanent grime on track, something abrasive - e.g. Scotch Brite works - in addition to the denatured alcohol.

 

Once the track is clean, then use a track cleaning car to keep it clean.  Track cleaning cars will be hard-pressed to clean an already dirty and grimy surface.  They will keep a clean surface fairly clean if used regularly.

 

 

Originally Posted by Feedman:
Thank you to every one for the info!!! And to (HotWater) sorry if it up set you but I felt as though this was the best way to introduce myself, if you don't like the way I ask something then ignore my post!!!

Maybe you should go back and reread my initial post. What made you think that I was upset? I said "Welcome" and suggested the use of the SEARCH function, since there have been literally dozens of threads pertaining to track cleaning, over the last year alone.

Feedman,

I've never been a big fan of the so called,"track-cleaning cars". Up to five-years ago these cars were almost unheard of and or too expensive for Standard Gauge.

 

I've been using LifeLike Track Cleaner for more than forty-years. It lasts a long time and is fairly inexpensive. You can purchase it much cheaper by the case. It's supposed to be non-toxic which is nice for households with pets.

 

God Bless,

"Pappy"

I spent a few hours last weekend mopping up the remains of previous "wet" track cleanings out of the ends of my tube track. Had to pull all the pins, clean them off, & then use a swab to get all the old goo out of the ends of the tubes. Like I said, any wet solution will cut the dirt/oil/whatever that's on your track & as you wipe it, it runs down into every track connection, flows inside the tubes, & coats the pins resulting in poor contact over time. The pins came out dirty & the inside ends of the track tubes were coated in black film.

Railroaded makes a good point....I have noticed the same thing about wet processes for track cleaning.  A scotch bright type of pad and then a good wiping down with electrical contact cleaner will last for a LONG time.  In may experience using this technique lasted over 2 years....  I know, it seems too good to be true but ask others that have used contact cleaner...bet they didn't have to clean their track for a long time!

 

Alan

I like the masonite I described earlier because anything even slightly abrasive like a pad will only scratch the surface of the metal, giving dirt, oil, dust something to adhere to. Those pads deteriorate & leave little bits behind when you run them over the sharp edges where the tracks come together or on a switch & it drops a light dust around the area. Any sort of abrasive dust, or little flecks will find their way into the mechanical parts of the trains or switches. The problem with the masonite I use is that it gets dirty after a few runs around the track & constantly needs to be cleaned until the tracks are good so you have to hang around & keep after it while the cleaner car is on the layout. Kinda boring because I will only run that car with one loco & it gets a little monotonous having to constantly check it & clean it off, but the amount of dirt that the masonite sucks up is amazing. 

Originally Posted by leavingtracks:

Railroaded makes a good point....I have noticed the same thing about wet processes for track cleaning.  A scotch bright type of pad and then a good wiping down with electrical contact cleaner will last for a LONG time.  In may experience using this technique lasted over 2 years....  I know, it seems too good to be true but ask others that have used contact cleaner...bet they didn't have to clean their track for a long time!

 

Alan

If you are not running with DCS, that contact cleaner works pretty well. However, in my experience of using that stuff, it really destroyed the DCS signal strength on the track section I tried it on. Finally cleaned it off with lacquer thinner, then went over everything with denatured alcohol , and DCS was back to normal.

I also use denatured alcohol with a clean white piece of an old tee shirt.  Track cleaning cars are good for areas you can't easily reach if they have at least been cleaned well to start with by hand.  The best track cleaning car, in my opinion, is my design you make yourself because it is cheap.  I can send you photos, instructions, and a drawing if you like.

.....

Dennis

The G&O garden railroad has many feet of track that is difficult to reach and it is always very dirty.  This is what happens with garden railroads.

 

We use the basic track cleaning cars from Northeast Trains.  We have found that these do an excellent job.  We clean the entire layout before every running session.  The only downside is that you need to clean the pads by hand washing or putting them in with wash. 

 

We soak the pads with 91% isopropyl alcohol or CRC 2-26 electrical lubricant.  Both of these products work well.  The electrical lubricant is especially good after a rain when the track is wet.  This isn't a problem on indoor layouts.  The only problem with the lubricant is that it is slippery.  Only put it on the middle rail or spray it on the center of the pad.  

 

I use this track cleaner on my home layout about once every six months with excellent results.  I recommend the basic unit for track cleaning.  

 

Here is a link the NE trains website:  

 

http://02aedf8.netsolstores.co...cleaningcarbase.aspx 

 

Joe

Originally Posted by leavingtracks:

Jack...been using it for close to 20 years and have not had a problem such as you described.  In fact, the signal getting to the locomotive seems better!  Of course, I only use a certain brand.  Works really well on 2-rail DCC system track too!!

 

Alan

Hmmmm.  Is your layout all Atlas O track, i.e. solid nickel silver?  Maybe I should try it again, if I can still find that little spray can.

Hi Jack....

Yes, all of my track is Atlas.  What I would suggest, just for your peace of mind, only do a portion of the layout that is up front where you can periodically look at the track and if you are not satisfied, you can clean it easily.  However; I found that not only did I get better signals, the track didn't seem to get as dirty.  Perhaps this is why the product didn't degrade the signal going between the track and the locomotives...??

 

Alan

Clutchguy....it is plus it prevents dirt and grime from building up as fast.  My neighbor, who is a 2-rail scale guy, was having all kinds of trouble with running his locomotives lately....so I applied the CRC to his track and everything ran perfectly.  Did this weeks ago and all is still fine!

 

CRC is available at Home Depot and at Lowes...at least here locally.

 

Alan

Originally Posted by leavingtracks:

Hi Jack....

Yes, all of my track is Atlas.  What I would suggest, just for your peace of mind, only do a portion of the layout that is up front where you can periodically look at the track and if you are not satisfied, you can clean it easily.  However; I found that not only did I get better signals, the track didn't seem to get as dirty.  Perhaps this is why the product didn't degrade the signal going between the track and the locomotives...??

 

Alan

Thanks Alan. One last question; do you just apply it to the center/powered rail?

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