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I don't know if anyone reading this has or will ever buy this item, but buyer be educated.  Not warned, educated.  I have information to pass along that might be helpful.  This is in no way a post trying to warn you against buying it.  First of all, I really like it.  I had to have it the moment I saw it.  Finally, billboard advertising something that fits my theme.  However.  Not being a robust train man of knowledge, I have no idea what they put under it.  It looks like some sort of attaching point.  It's just a plastic hose or nozzle looking thing attached with a rivet of some sort to a metal hanger that runs almost the length of the under belly.  Not only do I not know what it is, it is danger close to the rails.  I tested it at a very low speed, intentionally running it across switch track after switch track and you guessed it, it hit one face on.  Caused the switch to activate and both it's rear end and the front end of the car behind it, headed for track 2.  That's why I test them at slow speeds.  Imagine what would have happened if I had been up to speed.

I removed the shell, four screws irritatingly close to the trucks.  The shelf mechanism was held on by bendable clips at each end.  Bent the clips, removed the shelf and thus the mystery detail piece.  As I said the screws were difficult to get too but not impossible as the trucks are attached on the inside of the shell via a shaft held in place by one of the C-shaped clips you need a special tool to remove.  Nice idea actually.  The trucks are using an old style magnetic system I saw only once on a Sunoco tanker that is being sold on Ebay by anyone and everyone who has one.  You don't have to clip piece on the finger side of the coupler to push down or push backward to release the coupler.  You have to reach under the car, impossible, grab the back of the truck piece and pull down.  Again, not possible without taking the car off the track.  So, we are left to hook up the car the analog way.  Using our 5 digit hand coupler you lift up and set the two coupler together fully closed.

Finally, the couplers, the front one (the one on the end where the brake wheel is installed), shuts hard but shuts.  The rear coupler, on mine, you have to slam it shut or to save buying a new one, use one of your 5 digits to shut it.

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Judging from what I saw from the downward facing up close and personal photo of two couplers connected....looks similar.  Nothing wrong with the couplers.  When you open one, a flat piece jets out.  Would really like to know what that piece under the belly is.  Go out to Menards train website and look at the picture.  You can't miss it.  Again, nothing wrong with details, but when those details obstruct smooth operation, time to remove. 

As I said the screws were difficult to get too but not impossible as the trucks are attached on the inside of the shell via a shaft held in place by one of the C-shaped clips you need a special tool to remove.  Nice idea actually.  The trucks are using an old style magnetic system I saw only once on a Sunoco tanker being sold on Ebay.  You don't have to clip piece on the finger side of the coupler to push down or push backward to release the coupler you have to reach under the car, impossible, grab the back of the truck piece and pull down. 

Finally, the couplers, the front one (the one on the end where the brake wheel is installed), shuts hard but shuts.  The rear coupler, on mine, you have to slam it shut or to save buying a new one, use one of your 5 digits to shut it.

Quite a lot of somewhat puzzling text to go thru.  Just a couple of comments:  1) the C-clips holding the trucks to the boxcar frame (not the shell) do not need special tools to be removed.  I can remove them by carefully pushing on them in a sideways motion with 2 small flathead screwdrivers.  2) The  shoe-based coupler mechanism is of high quality, although the absence of an easy-to-reach side tab can sometimes be a bit frustrating.  3) Firm-fitting couplers are really a good thing... better than ones that come open with the train moving.

Regarding the special tool, you're correct, I was thinking of the other clip ring that requires those special pliers that open backwards, when you squeeze they open out rather than push down.  You're right, the clip holding the trucks to the frame, which by the way is inside the shell where it can't be reached without removing the shell, that's what I was talking about, is one of those use a couple of flat head screwdrivers and push it off the pin.  My mistake.  Apologies and thanks for clarifying that.  As for the couplers, I like them.  I'm not knocking them.  My statements may elude to that, but.....no.  I like the couplers.  I wish all of them could be made like that.  Yes, coupler failure is quite rampant when you have old 1970's billboard advertising Lionel's, and even modern Lionel and MTH rolling stock.  Springs get weak, pins get old, bumps or lumps in track layout can cause a pin to drop just far enough and the coupler releases.  Then there is the whole "the car in front or car behind it was higher or lower set and the two couplers just let go".  I've seen it all.  Well, complete coupler blow out hasn't happened yet.

All I was trying to say, and failed at it again, if you buy this car, be aware that it has this style of truck and be prepared to have a problem releasing the coupler to hook it to a another car.  Or, pick the darn thing up and set it on the track while simultaneously connecting the two closed couplers.  I hadn't seen this style on newly manufactured rolling stock.  Anything I ever buy has the standard push this flap, or push this lever, and the coupler opens.  The only place I'd ever seen this style was on that Sunoco Tanker made in, what, 1977, heck I don't know.  I hope this style of coupler holds nice and tight.  Beats wiring the dern thing shut so it'll quit opening.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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