Skip to main content

Thank you, Mike!

Yes, the 'corners' made on the inside of the curved street and the layout edge make for difficult spots to put in buildings.  Of course I could scratch build or kit bash triangular buildings or half buildings, but I don't like the idea.  I think the playground and flagpole look better on the left across from the church than on the right.  I tried them on the right, but didn't like it.  Since I don't have room to have on street parking, a place for parking a few of my excess of cars and trucks seem a good idea.

You are right about there not being much room for houses in the last photograph.  Here is an overhead shot to prove your point. 

20250208_002352168_iOS

I have not known what I would do with that area and just left it while concentrating on other things.  Up until now, I have been parking cars and trucks in the cubby holes under the upper level.  Reconfiguring the track from a twice around over and under to the upper and lower loops shows how I don't need the upper level roadbed to be as wide as I did before.  I could gain about 2 inches in depth by removing a few supports and narrowing the roadbed.  Time will tell if I think it is worth it.  I'm not particularly attached to any of the houses or the Plasticville church, so I may do something totally different.  In the meantime, it is a place to store buildings instead of automobiles. 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 20250208_002352168_iOS

Thank you, Jeff!  Yes, the sawsall certainly could come into play.  I do like your idea of building the area up a couple of inches from track level.  Certainly fitting for here in Western Pennsylvania and West Virginia!  The brick embossed roller just came in the mail today, so I have everything I need to start paving brick streets.    I'm thinking of trying some clay on a scrap board first to get the feel for it and see how my painting of the bricks works out.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Jeff!  Yes, the sawsall certainly could come into play.  I do like your idea of building the area up a couple of inches from track level.  Certainly fitting for here in Western Pennsylvania and West Virginia!  The brick embossed roller just came in the mail today, so I have everything I need to start paving brick streets.    I'm thinking of trying some clay on a scrap board first to get the feel for it and see how my painting of the bricks works out.

Mark, just remember roll to about 2mm thickness. If you want to remove it roll it out on a plastic cutting mat and let dry for 12 to 24 hours. Slower drying yields less stress  which makes for a flatter casting. You may need to wet your roller to prevent / minimuze sticking. You can also moisten the surface as it dries to even out the drying stress. If you put it on plywood, it will want to really stick down. Bonus is it will reduce the tendency to surface cup.

Add Reply

Post
The Track Planning and Layout Design Forum is sponsored by

AN OGR FORUM CHARTER SPONSOR
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×