no 384 Setup, Clean, etc. - Rookie Enthusiast

There are places that are well versed in Prewar Standard Gauge to replace the missing parts on the locomotive, it will probably need rewired as the rubber insulation on the wires was not vulcanized so it crumbles with age.  The bent platform on the caboose should be able to be straightened with some thumb pressure, then the roof(which is sitting on top of a gondola) can go back on.  Anything with lights will probably need rewired and maybe new bulbs.  Try calling Hennings Trains as they seem to have a great repair dept.  Best to let a pro bring the old set back up to snuff so it can run safely again.  Many times the wheels on the engine have swelled from zinc pest and will need replaced as well.     Looks like a great set to get redone mechanically, polish up the original paint and enjoy.      AD

Oil it. All axle bushings, gear posts, and a DOT on the armature shaft ends at the bearing /shaft. (oil wont kill the windings/armature/etc, but it is messy.

A little grease goes on the gear teeth.

Repeat this often/every few hours. Black oil= wear. Flush it away (wd-40/crc electrical cleaner/etc) re-oil.   (wd,-40 is not a "real" oil..Common .Mobil 1 etc will do)

  Look for threads on motor tune-ups for an in depth cleaning guide.  ( "universal" type threads/suggestions vs #specific etc.)

Looks like this baby got tossed a few times in it's life.

Missing handrails, lead truck (up front before the drivers), side and main rods, pilot broken off, bent cab roof. But because it's a BILD a LOCO, and because it LOOks like the drivers are Ok (try to turn by hand, if free, that's good). Does it fit on the track, if not the wheels are swelled. These can be replaced. Also agree on the oil and grease. Wiring may or may not be good, doesn't hurt to oil it up and see what happens. It will run without all those missing parts, will just look a little funny to those of us who know what is missing.

Jim

Thanks for all the replies! I wiped them all down today and they shined up decent (mostly got the dust off). I'll do a better polish tomorrow and try to get the wheels shinning again. Will also do the oiling tomorrow now that the dust/grime is off.

Got all of the bent parts you all noticed straightened out good and will call Hennigs. Now I'm starting to see some missing parts just don't know what they are . Thanks for the list Jim - I'll start poking around for those. 

My goal right now is to get it running and then I'll work to get it looking perfect! Everything turns free and feels good and smooth by hand. The wire to the light looks OK (I'm used to these wires from old tractors I work on). The wheels fit the track no problem and turn nice on the engine and all the cars. Hoping once my RW comes I can light it up and it works (fingers crossed). 

If you look at the engine from the side when oriented as it would be on the track, right between the two main wheels there is a lever that sticks out. Does that position matter? Not sure what that does but it also moves freely. 

The drive wheels being in good condition is a BIG plus! Unfortunately, the pilot, which was integrally cast with the frame, cannot be easily replaced unless it was specially fabricated (3-D molding?) and then epoxied to the chasis. Another option may be fastening a sheet metal pilot to the frame.

As mentioned above, all other parts: boiler handrails, stanchions, pilot truck/wheels, and side rods and valve gear available from Hennings or other usual vendors. GOOD LUCK!

The lever between the wheels is  the hand reverse unit on the 384.  .Slide forward to run forward and back to run reverse. Center down is neutral.  Harry 

A new frame may be in order as there is a crack at the front. 

I know you understand conductivity because of the 1 ohm resistance you got for the track connections.  That is great.  If you look at the picture you supplied us of the suspended track you can easily see crud on the top of the rails.  You said you already cleaned the wheels, now you need to clean that track up to complete the circuit.  Enjoy yourself and have fun.  I'm sure this will bring back fond memories from the past.   JP

Thanks everyone - excited to report that it is alive and well. I got the RW transformer and ran new wiring. I did clean off the whole track so the contact surfaces are nice and I have great voltage/resistance throughout. I also JB welded the crack in the cow catcher as it was very clean and from the outside you cannot see the gap or missing parts. For now I'm stoked it is back. I love the old smell, that I recall from being a kid in the basement with the setup! I'll slowly work to fix the engine and add the missing parts but already having fun and happy to work it. Thanks everyone for the help!

I just noticed your missing caboose roof is on your gondola. Makes a real "shorty" caboose. 

@Bill Sherry posted:

I know you understand conductivity because of the 1 ohm resistance you got for the track connections.  That is great.  If you look at the picture you supplied us of the suspended track you can easily see crud on the top of the rails.  You said you already cleaned the wheels, now you need to clean that track up to complete the circuit.  Enjoy yourself and have fun.  I'm sure this will bring back fond memories from the past.   JP

Just a reminder - when cleaning the track (or pretty much anything else related to the train) do NOT use steel wool.

That nice motor and wheels would certainly look good on an MTH replacement frame along with a proper pilot truck, both of which are available from Henning's along with the necessary mounting hardware. The frame is drilled and tapped but requires priming and painting. With a replacement frame, your engine will have a proper pilot, and with the replacement of boiler trim will look great. Just something to consider.

Jon: Please see my thread on replacement frames. It has much good information and availability of the 384 frame and also the pilot truck. GOOD LUCK whatever you decide! The 384 is one of my all time favorite Lionel SG locos and I have personally owned three over the years but never a family heirloom like yours!

Thanks for the intel Tinplate Art! I'll check hennings out. Painting/priming is no issue for me, I do that all the time on large equipment. I'd definitely like to get all the replacement parts I just wish I could find a diagram - I don't know what all the terms you all are using mean yet . I'll contact Hennings though. My family is pretty happy it is rolling around the track again, this one will hopefully stay for more generations!

The  frame for the 384 includes a cast pilot or "cowcatcher" which was broken off on your engine. Your loco is also missing the front pilot truck which has two wheels. Hennings has the frame and front truck assembly and all the mounting hardware you will need. They probably could also provide some guidance for changing out the frame and pilot truck. The frame is a high quality MTH part and is drilled and tapped but unpainted. It will also be easy to install the missing handrails and their mounting clips on the boiler shell with the old frame removed.

Your heirloom loco will look much better and be complete with the addition of those replacement parts! GOOD LUCK with your restoration project!

The frame I am referring to is the heavy zinc alloy diecasting upon which the boiler tube and cab is mounted. The pilot or front truck is a sheet metal frame with an axle and two wheels which pivots on the curves. The motor is also mounted to the diecast frame. Hope that helps with the terminology!

That is super helpful thank you for the definitions! I matched those on Hennings, now I feel like I get what you all are saying . Much appreciated, I'll start hunting the parts to rebuild!

Your restored 384 will look great traversing that nice elevated track you constructed. Looking forward to the video!