O.K. guys I need some information on highway flashers.

For a test, I would take the IR out of the equation and wire directly to track/accessory.  It may be your IR which should be simple to replace. 

Steims posted:

For a test, I would take the IR out of the equation and wire directly to track/accessory.  It may be your IR which should be simple to replace. 

Thanks that is what I was thinking.I think I will give it a shot.Plan b will be to replace it with the z -stuff.But thanks again for your input here.

Steims posted:

For a test, I would take the IR out of the equation and wire directly to track/accessory.  It may be your IR which should be simple to replace. 

You are right its the ir.The flashers and bell work.

A digital camera could tell you if the IR-led is bad. (cameras can see the light)

If nothing else, it might tell you what to keep, repair, or sell for parts.

There is basically an emmitter (light) , a receiver (electric eye), and a "transistor" or two (relay/ic) throwing electrical points open or closed.  The emitter & receiver are the easy parts... on for the light, and pass power or not for the eye (heavy draw by transistor action, like a mini version of a toggle & heavy machine contactor relay. A toggle does the little work the relay does the heavy connection)

seaboardm2 posted:

....It now just makes clicking sounds now.

Were the clicking sounds coming from the IR device?  Does the clicking correspond to placing/removing a target in front of the IR window?  If so, then that would be the IR relay which is the only "moving part" in that device.   

If you're inclined to DIY troubleshooting I can find the OGR thread with under-the-hood photos of the Lionel 153IR assuming that's what you have. Otherwise if not under warranty, given the replacement cost it's hard to imagine a repair shop taking it on?

Since the 153IR has 2 potentiometers (pots), one for sensitivity and one for time go ahead and adjust them back and forth then return to original location and see if problem is gone.  We call this “wiping” since pots can develop a bad spot.  

stan2004 posted:

seaboardm2 posted:

....It now just makes clicking sounds now.

Were the clicking sounds coming from the IR device?  Does the clicking correspond to placing/removing a target in front of the IR window?  If so, then that would be the IR relay which is the only "moving part" in that device.   

If you're inclined to DIY troubleshooting I can find the OGR thread with under-the-hood photos of the Lionel 153IR assuming that's what you have. Otherwise if not under warranty, given the replacement cost it's hard to imagine a repair shop taking it on?

I have tested by moving my hand across it.I think I will wind up getting a new one.As far as a warranty given I had it for about 2 to maybe 3 years.I find warranty to be tricky nowadays.

Steims posted:

Since the 153IR has 2 potentiometers (pots), one for sensitivity and one for time go ahead and adjust them back and forth then return to original location and see if problem is gone.  We call this “wiping” since pots can develop a bad spot.  

Thanks but I am looking to a new one.I just glad the bell and flashers are alright.

Adriatic posted:

A digital camera could tell you if the IR-led is bad. (cameras can see the light)

If nothing else, it might tell you what to keep, repair, or sell for parts.

There is basically an emmitter (light) , a receiver (electric eye), and a "transistor" or two (relay/ic) throwing electrical points open or closed.  The emitter & receiver are the easy parts... on for the light, and pass power or not for the eye (heavy draw by transistor action, like a mini version of a toggle & heavy machine contactor relay. A toggle does the little work the relay does the heavy connection)

You are right as a matter of fact I have a video showing one of my locomotives smoking.It shows up as a flicking light in the video.

IR circuits like this are usually pretty tolerant of less than exact parts swaps; emmit, recieve to trigger transitor, transistor maybe triggers an IC, one of those two to actually trigger a relay. Everything else is to tweak a charge to suit. If you don't see an light in the camera, your likely only 1 LED or rectifying diode away from a repair. The other side of the light beam is only slightly harder; "mini relays"(photo-resistor or transistor)working an electromechanical relay.

seaboardm2 posted:

Steims posted:

Since the 153IR has 2 potentiometers (pots), one for sensitivity and one for time go ahead and adjust them back and forth then return to original location and see if problem is gone.  We call this “wiping” since pots can develop a bad spot.  

Thanks but I am looking to a new one.I just glad the bell and flashers are alright.

I would still try rotating each of the pots back and forth and then returning them to the middle position and see if that helps. I would also try re-seating the electrical connections to the IR. Those connectors can be a little tricky and a wire may have worked itself loose. Can't hurt.

Reseat things. Funnier things can happen. I give electronics a week unpowered rest before I hang them up. I've had more than a few items come back to life and work for years more after a "rest". It is possible for electronics to "forget" thier jobs temporarily. It's kinda rare, but not a joke.... think computer re-boot. Sometimes they remember, sometimes they don't..... ask the designers why and how.... I was always just glad to move on. I had a TMCC lock up and emit static noise. No difference for days straight. After about a week of resting it fired up and never had an issue again. Techs call this "electrcal magic" and thank the appropriate diety (dirrectly related to the magic smoke) And it conveniently follows the genraly lazy yet wise rule of thumb that "if it ain't broke (or breaking often, seeing how finicky electric can be); don't fix it"....unless you're bored.