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I had hooked my 145 Gateman up to 14 Volts AC power with an insulated track section.  When the train passes through the insulated section the Gateman comes out as he should but the coil buzzes and the gateman shakes like he is having a seizure.  I am running DCS would this effect how an insulated section operates with a PW Gateman.  I racked my brain but I couldn't figure it out. When I tested the Gateman it works perfectly but not with the insulated of track.  If anyone out there has had this same issue please let me know.

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I run all accessories off of AC Power so I am drawing no track power.
Originally Posted by Charly:
Originally Posted by Jim 1939:

Dirty track and or wheels. Probably not enough voltage if you are taking power from the track.

Ditto, I run my accessories off a separate power source.  Some shaking is inevitable, it's in the nature of the accessory.

 

Originally Posted by Dale H:

You can take the "shaking" out if you run it on DC, ,even filtered DC,but you have to use caution and reduce the voltage until the accessory just operates,then add a volt. Too much DC voltage will cook it..

 

Dale H

Good to know. I don't have a Gateman, but have been experimenting with using DC for powering things. One item I tried was an old '70s-'80s vintage Lionel crossing gate that was almost louder than the trains running on AC. Powering it with DC, it was absolutely silent, made no noise at all.

Originally Posted by johnstrains:
Originally Posted by Jim 1939:

Another is expand the insulated track to 2 sections.

Actually, that's great advice. I've got a number of track-activated accessories on my PW-style layout and use multiple track sections for some of them.

Agreed as well. It isn't that a single track isn't capable, but two tracks together do give that extra bit of wheelbase so there's always more than one truck providing the connection

You are really better off with a relay. The PW type gateman causes an inrush of current when the coil inside in energized and pulls a bit of current. The large loads is carried by the train wheels and can cause a lot of sparking. In contrast the relay coil only pulls about a half watt and it's operation is steadied by the capacitor. The contact can switch one or more separate circuits. In addition timers can be added to shut off the accessory so it does not overheat.

 

If you elongate the track sections, there is still the duration when the train enters and leaves. In the beginning and the end only 2 wheels are on the section. Lots of chatter and sparking and voltage spikes. Not that it dont work,it is just a crude way of doing it, simple but crude. None of this is a problem with an inexpensive relay setup.

 

Dale H

Last edited by Dale H
 
 

Actually he has a girlfriend in there who keeps him quite busy and exhausted. He is a handsome devil. 

 

Dale H

That's what my Gramps used to say about him

The guy on the 445 switch tower steps is quite sure he smells the cologne of the guy on the balcony too 

 

 

Originally Posted by RRaddict2:

This is great to know thanks to everyone who helped out. I am going to give DC a try and will post the results. A relay was way to hard for me to comprehend.

A relay is just a switch with a very low draw linear motor to throw it.
 It will supply a steadier path as it absorbs all the "track chatter" described,  while delivering clean power from the steady contacts.
 
 
Originally Posted by KOOLjock1:

Before all of those suggestions, I'd seriously try a lower voltage.  Some of these shacks, and especially the newer ones use way less voltage than the earlier ones.

 

Jon

The man has a point . You didn't mention if it was new, or was the PW type, did you?.

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