Other Switch Machines then z-stuff and Atlas for Ross and Atlas Switches

Circuitron Tortoise machines are the gold standard.  I can't recommend them highly enough.

You can also use Lionel switch motors(022) mounted under the table. The nice thing about this, it is fast, you can hear the distinctive snap and hooking up a signal (see picture)  is very easy. 

I love my Tortoises, all 124 of them. It was one of the best decisions I ever made.

I've never liked twin coil switch machines. It is so easy to fry them if you lean on the button too long, especially the small low profile models that you are having trouble with.

When I install the Tortoises, I do it differently from the way they suggest. They use a direct drive method, where you install the machine when you are putting your switches in place. My track is already in place when I install them. I use a system of cranks and linkages (where necessary) to transfer the motion to the throw bar. This allows for total flexibility when positioning the Tortoise.

If you look on eBay, you can get them for around $13.50 per in a 12 pack.

Thanks for the information but I'm looking for AC powered units that I can easily substitute for the existing switch motors. CIRCUITRON TORTOISE SLOW MOTION SWITCH MACHINE  require DC and I would have to do a lot of rewiring to incorporate them into the existing layout.

As for using the 022 switch machines can you provide a picture or diagram.

If you need AC power (16 volts or so) then twin-coil machines such as those from Kemtron, Tenshodo and NJ International will be more reliable than the Atlas or DZ machines.  These are no longer manufactured but have been used on thousands of layouts and so are readily available on the secondary market.  You should be able to find them at train shows for $5 each or so.  They are also available all the time on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KEMTRO...5:g:cJwAAOSwFGNWSmcR

I use Tortoise with AC just need a pair of steering diodes. Instructions come with machines.

"I use Tortoise with AC just need a pair of steering diodes." What does a steering diode look like and where can I find one?

Thank you.

i've used Tortoise machines on layouts for more than three decades.  some were used on layouts that ran 7 days a week for 5-6 hours per day and i have NEVER had a problem with any of them failing.  i also typically ran them off accessory voltage (AC) and as was explained already, there's no problem with that.  as a bonus, they are completely underboard mounted so there is no clunky mechanism visible.  i cannot think of a "con".

I bought mine at Radio Shack, I guess you have to use a mail-order house. Maybe Gunrunner John can help? 

They are standard diodes that select which phase of the AC gets half rectified to power the Tortoise.  See the Tortoise instructions below.

www.circuitron.com/index_files/ins/800-6000ins.pdf

Bob posted:

They are standard diodes that select which phase of the AC gets half rectified to power the Tortoise.  See the Tortoise instructions below.

www.circuitron.com/index_files/ins/800-6000ins.pdf

pick up a handful of 1N4001 diodes.
no electronics toolbox should be without some.

cheers...gary

Is there a "how to" video  on the internet I can view? So far, everything I find is for HO and not OGauge.

Charlesp34 posted:

Is there a "how to" video  on the internet I can view? So far, everything I find is for HO and not OGauge.

Switch machines know no scale, however throw distance is slightly further for O than HO. This is simply a matter of adjustment. Those videos are just as relevant, though as I stated earlier I do it differently.

Tortoise machines work great, but can sometimes be tricky to install since you're working upside down under the layout. Litchfield Station sells a card edge connector for the machines which allows you to screw the wires on rather than soldering to the machine. You'll find them here. As for wiring, that's a simple process. Run a lead from your 14V accessory tap and use a pair of diodes to send a +7 or -7 signal to your spdt toggle switch. Run the common lead on the switch to terminal 1 on the machine and connect terminal 8 of the machine to layout common. When you throw the switch the machine moves. See the illustrations below. The Tortoise also has two SPDT switches built in for controlling dwarf signals or energizing the closure rails of Ross turnouts for better performance.

I second the use of Tortoise. I power mine  with a 12VDC wall wart  backed up by a HO power pak.  I have a small dormant 17 switch layout currently but have dismantled one with 32 Tortoise operated turnouts.

Fourth photo of underneath shows proper alignment with switch throwbar up top. Nails are inserted in the holes at each end of the extended throwbar to achieve correct alignment.

Note orientation in photo of spring-wire throw wires, one is perfectly vertical the other leaning, the latter reflecting the need for adjustment of the motor. I initially place the motor with  a very small piece of double stik tape enabling easy adjustment before permanent fastening. 

Two problems/questions with this circuit:

1.  No current limiting resistor for the Red-Green LED.  Is the Tortoise motor sufficient to limit current?

2.  How much current does the Tortoise draw?  If it is more than the 20ma that the LEDs can handle, won't it burn them out?

Electrical gurus, please chime in.

Bob

RRDOC,

The motor limits the current to a safe value below the LED max.

RRDOC posted:

 

Two problems/questions with this circuit:

1.  No current limiting resistor for the Red-Green LED.  Is the Tortoise motor sufficient to limit current?

2.  How much current does the Tortoise draw?  If it is more than the 20ma that the LEDs can handle, won't it burn them out?

Electrical gurus, please chime in.

Bob

Ah, but you forget the internal resistance of the tortoise motors themselves.