PETER WITT TROLLEYS

I'm sure they can, it's just the process of taking it apart and doing a little wiring.

Mr.gunrunnerjohn:

Western hobby craft trolleys have a jumper that you can remove locking them into the last

direction--not so with Williams Dewitt

I think I can do it by disconnecting the motor from the circut & with a bridge & cap

make it work---what I don't know is what will this do to the circut

I'm hoping someone has found another way to do it

Thanks

This thread might be relevant:

https://ogrforum.com/topic/williams-engines

If you post a photo/diagram of the circuit in question, I think one of use might be able to suggest what a modification would "do to the circuit".

I doubt you need more than a bridge rectifier to lock it in forward if you want to make a permanent change.

I HOPE THIS HELPS--BUT I DON'T THINK SO

Mr. gunrunnerjohn:

I think you are right a bridge is the only way-- but I'm still open to any other ways

thank

I guess semantics but I thought you meant to run in forward only while retaining all other functionality.  For example, if the "circuit" has speed control then you would lose that functionality if the circuit no longer "sees" the motor.  Or if the unit has directional lighting (?) there are some motor circuits where the fwd/rev lighting is tied to the motor voltage polarity and hence this would be lost if the circuit no longer "sees" the motor.

But if all you want to do is run in forward only, then mission accomplished with a bridge rectifier.

stan2004:

You are aware of what I have been worred about--if I do use the bridge will I loose the

other things reverse lighting, bell etc

thanks

John,

Why not go to the "Ask the Bach-Man" Forum on the Bachmann website?

Bill

There's likely a way to jumper the board to lock it in forward. There was a documented method for older Williams boards.

You could also leave the electronics package intact and connected to the track power.  Just run the motor of the bridge rectifier, that way you retain sounds.  Since it's locked in forward, direction lighting wouldn't seem to be an issue.

Bill:

I'm waiting for the forum also the tech for a reply

Mr. gunrunnerjohn:

I believe the bridge will be my only out ----also my brain did not think

far enough ahead about the lights

thanks to all of you

Interesting a reverse unit that complex doesn't have a lockout switch.  Does the instruction manual address it?

You would think a trolley would have a lock out.  G

G:

The only reference to the reverse unit in the instructions is F N R

No answer from the  Bach-man forum or their tech

I have two trolleys I finished one with the bridge & cap.--It works fine except for

the headlight (keeps reversing)--I'm rewiring that now

I agree having a reverse unit in a street car without a lock-out doesn't make sense

F Y I western hobby craft trolleys has one

How about showing us exactly what you did, what parts you used, so other guys can benefit.  I saw a similar, unresolved, thread on the Bach-man forum so it appears this is of general interest.

For example for the headlight, are you wiring the rear light circuit output into the head light so that either F or R lights up the existing bulb?  Or perhaps you found a signal that always has constant-brightness voltage irrespective of direction and are tapping into that?  Etc.

The circuit board could probably be modified to make your own lockout circuit.  But if all it takes to effect the desired behavior is a bridge-rectifier and a minor modification to the headlight wiring...

When I finish with this project I will do so but right now everything is temp.

& rather rough looking also placing the bridge cap. is a problem---I removed the 

rear light wires to the front light --didn't work--I'll post when i get it all together

If it's a single headlight, I think I'd just power it from track power, if you're always running in one direction, you will always have one headlight on.

Mr. gunrunnerjohn:

With a 2596 setup that would be no problem--however I'm having enough 

problems just trying to locate space for the bridge-cap that will look decent

with the wiring because the only space is in the passenger area & that is filled with seats.

Right now I need to get some 20 & 22 gauge stranded. Then I'm going to try tapping

in to the over head lights--Right now the bridge -cap. works fine--If the tap into the overhead lights works then all I have to do is clean up my temporaries.

Then when all is done I'll post the job

For lights you can use something a lot smaller than #22, I use #28 or #30 to wire LED lighting all the time.  For a single bulb, #30 will be plenty as well.  As far as track power a 1N4003 diode and a 470 ohm 1/4W resistor fit most anyplace.

Here is a circuit for an LED headlight powered off track power

LINK

Dale H