Primer for bare plastic

Dupli-color #1699 sealer primer is great. No issues after 20+ years on all kinds of plastic. 

second that DP #1699

Maybe one of these days you guys will learn to use a true hobby paint instead of that Krylon krap!

Thanks for the info guys...minus Jim's remark!!!

I've used acrylic railroad (water based) paint for years with no problems. Krylon's clear acrylic states its for use with plastic on the label.

I use a basic hardware/discount store flat gray spray primer, various brands. Has never caused a problem in 25+ years and lots of models. 

Always use a primer, even if already flat (gloss paint is awful in general; never paint over it without priming). Primer, uh, primes the surface... Flat. Toothy. 

Testors is good stuff. Made with the modeler in mind. Hardware store paint is fine, but beware of compatibility issues, especially in the "flat-ish" clear coat that they offer. Testors can eliminate that.  

I was just using the last of a 1995 can of Krylon today.  It was wonderful back then.  I will not buy it today; the spray pattern is horrible and it clogs after two uses or three months, whichever comes first.

I am having excellent results with Dupli-Color.  As good as Krylon used to be!

I have an airbrush, and use it a lot.  Nothing like good old Scale Coat on a GG1 or a bunch of Walthers coaches.  But rattle can is good enough for the Challengers that keep rolling out of here.  I am going to bead-blast a new SP Mike Wednesday, and rattle-can it.  Just finished it this evening, except for cab handrails.

RockyRoad:

Is what you are getting orange-peel or a milky white residue? If the residue I can't remember whether you seal again with the Krylon or wipe with ?alcohol?  ( a youtube video - Luke Towen I think) but there is a simple technique to get rid of the residue.

If orange peel then the base may have been an enamel that the acrylic did not like. If orange peel the only remedy I know is sand and re-paint.

It is always a good idea to seal the paint first (whether Testors Dull/gloss cote or Krylon Satin or Gloss - not their flat) before applying decals. The sealer helps avoid 'silvering' - a condition where you see dark spots under the decal after it dries due to a rough surface. When I make decals I seal with Krylon Satin. I usually prime the structure with Testors Dullcote, apply the decal and then over spray with Dullcote. I don't have compatibility issues with dullcote over the Krylon.

Joe

I've painted dozens of real vehicles and dozens of model train loco's and rolling stock.  When painting plastic of any kind, on a real car or model, I ALWAYS use an "adhesion promoter".  Those paints that say "safe for plastic" usually have an adhesion promoter built in.  It's the only way to paint plastic with any dependable success, since there are so many different types of plastic.

If you use a rattle can version of adhesion promoter you only need the lightest of coats.  Don't glob it on.  It works fine with a light coat.   Here is a link to one brand of adhesion promoter; but there are dozens to choose from.

BTW; some paints have a flex agent already mixed in, while others need it added.  I also mix in a little flex agent if I think the part might encounter any twisting motion, like a plastic car bumper cover.  Some of the rattle can paints already have a little flex agent mixed in.

Link for adhesion promoter;   https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-C...Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ

Rockyroad posted:

Thanks for the info guys...minus Jim's remark!!!

I've used acrylic railroad (water based) paint for years with no problems. Krylon's clear acrylic states its for use with plastic on the label.

"Proper tool for the proper job!"
I just don't understand why you guys want to use an industrial strength material not intended for your models instead of what has been specifically developed for them!

It has also been noted on here that hobby shops, ones that restock, have vanished, while Wallyworlds abound.  Duplicolor was found in auto parts stores, but whole chains of those l once used, are now hiding with the hobby shops. As for hobby paints, haven't some of those, stocked by vanished hobby shops, when available, been discontinued? I am left with what l can find.

Dupli-color #1699 is almost 100% exactly like Tamiya gray primer. It looks, acts and even smells the same. I have to drive 3 hours for Tamiya, Dupli-color is stocked at NAPA up the street. Add to it I can get Dupli-color for $4 for a 12 oz. can vs Tamiya at $9 for 6 oz.  Cheap cans of no name paint.....skip those.....but I have used the entire line of Dupli-color and good paint is good paint no matter the original 'purpose'. 

BTW their oxide red is a great box car color!!! 

Many of the plastics used in our models are the same plastics used in the "commercial" sector...same base plastic. The term "industrial strength vs. model strength" isn't really valid anymore.  Many of the finishing/decaling/painting products we used to use have been discontinued by the manufactures because of the decline in "model making" within our hobby. We now depend upon what's available at our box-stores and other outlets...most work very well!

Thanks for all the replies and advice...I just went out and bought a can of Dupli-color 1699 primer and a can of Dupli-adhesion primer cp- 199. I'll take another "shot" at it.

Best Regards