Proper Display

I prefer to use the track to keep the pieces in line.  Routed grooves can perform the same function at less cost but increased work.  Another option is to use bead board shelves, but they need support.

Makes sense.  Thank you.

I definitely prefer to display them on track rails.  Keeps 'em nice and straight.

I'm finally tinkering around to get my floating shelf up on the backside over my bar.

Select milled 2x4 tap drilled with wells for 5" lag screws every 24 inches to align into the hvac ducting ceiling 2x6 crossbeam framing lumber. Doweled and glued at the butt joint. I'll cap the edge with a finish trim piece to hide the screw head holes and then paint.

I have a ton of 40" straight Atlas O 3r track.  I'll yank the center rail and fix to the shelf top.

@WITZ 41 posted:

I definitely prefer to display them on track rails.  Keeps 'em nice and straight.

I'm finally tinkering around to get my floating shelf up on the backside over my bar.

Select milled 2x4 tap drilled with wells for 5" lag screws every 24 inches to align into the hvac ducting ceiling 2x6 crossbeam framing lumber. Doweled and glued at the butt joint. I'll cap the edge with a finish trim piece to hide the screw head holes and then paint.

I have a ton of 40" straight Atlas O 3r track.  I'll yank the center rail and fix to the shelf top.

Nice woodworking skills there!

I was told once by an older modeler that your trains should be stored on tracks . If you don't seal a wood shelf (paint or varnish ) , moisture can migrate from the wood to the steel  wheels and rust them eventually. Don't know how true it is because all my trains are still in their boxes.

I use Diamond Plate Aluminum for my shelves.  I have a friend that has a shear and brake for cutting and bending.

I'm thinking about the same issues.  I am posting pictures of the amount of space that I have in the basement.  I would like to set up shelving so that I can both display them and have them available for use rather than stored in boxes (about 80 56 quart Sterilite boxes).  I have to say I like the look of the Diamond Plate aluminum shelves but don't know anyone who could make them.  The shelfs that P40Warhawk posted also look nice are reasonably doable.

I've included pictures of the wall in the train room.  It is about a total of 40 feet with a break for the doorway.  Height is about 8 feet and there is a shelf along that bottom that comes out about 18 inches and is about 8 inches high.  I'm open to any suggestions.  This wall is plaster on cinder block since it was the exterior wall of the basement at one time.

I have always used KV shelving.  The verticals have slots and the brackets lock into them.  I used 1x4s for shelves.  For the first 1000' I used Gargraves and then decided that could get expensive.  I now just run the 1x4s through my table saw to make slots.  Takes no time.

Hi Bill,

Your system looks solid, simple, and relatively inexpensive, especially cutting grooves into the 1x4s.  What is your distance between the vertical brackets side to side and how much height did you allow between the shelves.  It looks like you have plenty of clearance to put the trains in and take them out.

Thanks,

John

@third rail posted:

...I was told once by an older modeler that your trains should be stored on tracks . If you don't seal a wood shelf (paint or varnish ) , moisture can migrate from the wood to the steel  wheels and rust them eventually. Don't know how true it is because all my trains are still in their boxes.

Rust on the wheels due to moisture wicking from unfinished wood is a myth unless the shelves are made from wood that has not been kiln dried and allowed to acclimate to the indoors, or if there is a severe humidity problem in the building.  Once kiln-dried wood has been inside for a few weeks, the moisture content reaches equilibrium and it won't transfer to the wheels.  (Virtually all lumber that a consumer is likely to buy has been kiln dried.)

If you seal the wood, be sure that the finish is allowed to fully cure before resting trains on it.

And by all means, please take those trains out of their boxes!

@lionelflyer posted:

Hi Bill,

Your system looks solid, simple, and relatively inexpensive, especially cutting grooves into the 1x4s.  What is your distance between the vertical brackets side to side and how much height did you allow between the shelves.  It looks like you have plenty of clearance to put the trains in and take them out.

Thanks,

John

I use 24" centers on the verticals.  With $1,000 engines (at least when purchased new) I would rather be safe than sorry.  On the typical row I allow three slots between brackets on the verticals.  If you are storing taller items then just add a slot.  If memory serves the slots on the 1x4s are 1 3/16" apart.  You can set the guide on the table saw so that you can run the board one way then turn it around and run it the other way and be done.

The other day I bought three Hardware stores out of 6" brackets.

I like the top, more staggered shelves, but add track.  Trains displayed without being on track just looks weird to me.  Lol

Beautiful collection!!!!

Thanks Bill,  this is very helpful.  I'm sure I can order the verticals and brackets on line.  I'll use tracks for the time being.  It's a little too cold to pull the table saw out of the garage!  I'm in NJ and it is snowing again and supposed to be bruttly cold this week.

I want to get as much done on the layout and shelfing as possible.  I have another 3 weeks to go to get my second vaccination and then have to wait another month before I can head down to Florida.

Keep safe,

John

@lionelflyer posted:

Thanks Bill,  this is very helpful.  I'm sure I can order the verticals and brackets on line.  I'll use tracks for the time being.  It's a little too cold to pull the table saw out of the garage!  I'm in NJ and it is snowing again and supposed to be bruttly cold this week.

I want to get as much done on the layout and shelfing as possible.  I have another 3 weeks to go to get my second vaccination and then have to wait another month before I can head down to Florida.

Keep safe,

John

Well, here in deeeeeeep South Texas I think it got almost to 80 today.  When I went to Michigan to go to school I did not understand all the conversation about going to Florida in February until I experienced one.

Are there any concerns with open shelving and dust accumulation assuming reasonably long storage?  I know that many of my postwar purchases have evidence of lots of dust that takes a bit to clean up sometimes.

I display my engines only in an old display case.  Much smaller scale of course, but I have seen glassed in wall units on this forum I think?

I'm surprised no one has mentioned Glenn Snyder's shelves. I love the "mechanical" clean, simple look of them. I want to see trains, not shelves. They are compact and strong! Maybe not the cheapest things out there, but I figured I'm doing it once, and I can always add to them or relocate pretty easily. And, yes, the trains are dusty! Geoff

I like Glenn Snyder shelving as well.  They do have a crisp, sharp look to them.  Before I came across them though I constructed my own shelving out of oak 1x4's which I stained.  Actually, the difference in the two styles gives my train room an air of diversity.

@WITZ 41 posted:

I definitely prefer to display them on track rails.  Keeps 'em nice and straight.

I'm finally tinkering around to get my floating shelf up on the backside over my bar.

Select milled 2x4 tap drilled with wells for 5" lag screws every 24 inches to align into the hvac ducting ceiling 2x6 crossbeam framing lumber. Doweled and glued at the butt joint. I'll cap the edge with a finish trim piece to hide the screw head holes and then paint.

I have a ton of 40" straight Atlas O 3r track.  I'll yank the center rail and fix to the shelf top.

Finished construction and painting of my display shelf over the bar. Now I just need to anchor the track pieces for straight and true alignment. Then lay a strip of mini LED along the inside front lip. Once that's done it's just a matter of deciding which consist to display each month.......

Everyone has their own preference but displaying on pieces of track is definitely the way to go for me.  If I ever get my poker room finished I will install an around the room shelf layout in the same style, anchored into the studs for strength.