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For openers, you never told us what the engine is.  Secondly, if you did not install a fully charger battery or BCR, you may have ruined it.  If you have the old white battery, that is NG.  No engine should have a white battery at this point in time.    third-the reset kit is ONLY for the 3 clanks of death.  Not to be used for this issue.  The ERR products are good.   The DCS is the way I go and many others.  Big Dogs??????

The ERR is easy to put in.  It may cost you more than you may have paid for the engine.    Replacement boards and or chip can still be had from MTH.  The hobby has many used board sets.   I see you put in the CP.  That was a DAP set.  Sort of a shame the boards may be junk.

Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry

If you just want it to run and keep it simple, a basic reversing unit from Dallee electronics, or from an eBay seller will do it. No sound, but it goes. Me, I go the TMCC/ERR/RS replacement system route (I don't care for the term "upgrade", which implies to me that you are upgrading the electronics, when, in fact, you are replacing them and "upgrading" the loco). These kits for plastic-bodied diesels are very easy to install. 

Someone may be able to help further if you give the product number?  30-####, 20-####

You MUST have a current fully charged battery or BCR installed to get it running.  What transformer do you have?  If a Z-4000 the reset is simple.  You do not have to move the throttle up and down 18 times to do a reset.  Simply READ the instructions that came with the transformer, or get it from the MTH web site and learn how to use the program function.  The locomotive just may bet stuck in the reset mode.

good luck - bruce

It is the 20-80001 dap canadian pacific. I have tried a zw and a zwL. No luck yet. Checked the battery and it is fully charged and was charged before i tried to operate. It is, however, the white batery. The engine is new and had never been run before. I am guessing the battery should be replaced. I am not sure though that its the root of the problem

Remove the PS-1 boards, they unplug and are held in by one screw under rectifier and a brass bracket on regulator Jon mentioned.  Send it to me.  Could be a simple reset, could be a burned trace, could be regulator.  Either way the 2 boards and chip can be tested independently and go from there.  

You can use a 9V alkaline battery for a basic test.  Transformer needs to be a close to a Pure Sine wave type NOT Lionel CW-80, and you need to follow instructions.  Voltage less than 10V when coming out of reset for first time. G

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