Just got a protosound engine AA. Of course it makes static when placed on track and powered up. I know, I know, I know - shoulda known better. It was just too good looking and too good of a deal!
how can i make it work? Please help!!
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Just got a protosound engine AA. Of course it makes static when placed on track and powered up. I know, I know, I know - shoulda known better. It was just too good looking and too good of a deal!
how can i make it work? Please help!!
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Cruise Commander and rail sounds from Electric Railroad Company. Then it can run with the big dogs.
You could try a Protosound Reset Kit MTH #50-1023. Or, as ROYBOY suggested, install ERR components to make it operate with TMCC.
Whats the model number?
If it is a proto sound engine the reset kit could work. Also replacing the battery with a BCR would eliminate worrying about low battery and having to charge it first. You mentioned static. Would the engine run or was there just static. Maybe the speaker could be bad too......................Paul
Engine does not run, nothing works except the noise at any voltage. How bout those upgrades to tmcc - are they user friendly?
sure get tired of all the PS issues even with #2&3
It is a 1999 DAP Canadian pacific set with AA and passenger cars. Really just wanted the passenger cars. It would be nice if the AA ran too
For openers, you never told us what the engine is. Secondly, if you did not install a fully charger battery or BCR, you may have ruined it. If you have the old white battery, that is NG. No engine should have a white battery at this point in time. third-the reset kit is ONLY for the 3 clanks of death. Not to be used for this issue. The ERR products are good. The DCS is the way I go and many others. Big Dogs??????
The ERR is easy to put in. It may cost you more than you may have paid for the engine. Replacement boards and or chip can still be had from MTH. The hobby has many used board sets. I see you put in the CP. That was a DAP set. Sort of a shame the boards may be junk.
If you just want it to run and keep it simple, a basic reversing unit from Dallee electronics, or from an eBay seller will do it. No sound, but it goes. Me, I go the TMCC/ERR/RS replacement system route (I don't care for the term "upgrade", which implies to me that you are upgrading the electronics, when, in fact, you are replacing them and "upgrading" the loco). These kits for plastic-bodied diesels are very easy to install.
I have had good luck with used Protosound board sets, a used sound board would probably make it sound as good as new. If you run conventional that would be a nice set to have. The Protosounds F-3 boards have the best sounding diesel horn bar none.
I agree with Luke. Protosounds did sound good.
Someone may be able to help further if you give the product number? 30-####, 20-####
You MUST have a current fully charged battery or BCR installed to get it running. What transformer do you have? If a Z-4000 the reset is simple. You do not have to move the throttle up and down 18 times to do a reset. Simply READ the instructions that came with the transformer, or get it from the MTH web site and learn how to use the program function. The locomotive just may bet stuck in the reset mode.
good luck - bruce
I'm pretty sure he is referring to the 20-80001B Premier Canadian Pacific F-3 AA Diesel Passenger Set.
It is the 20-80001 dap canadian pacific. I have tried a zw and a zwL. No luck yet. Checked the battery and it is fully charged and was charged before i tried to operate. It is, however, the white batery. The engine is new and had never been run before. I am guessing the battery should be replaced. I am not sure though that its the root of the problem
Throw the white battery out. Would you run a battery this old in your car? Does it hold a charge under a load? My guess will be no. Your money, best wishes. It has always bothered me to see electronics get ruined when it did not have to be.
The voltage regulator used to mount the board is susceptible to damage from shipping and vibration. Cheap to replace from Mouser electronics.
Remove the PS-1 boards, they unplug and are held in by one screw under rectifier and a brass bracket on regulator Jon mentioned. Send it to me. Could be a simple reset, could be a burned trace, could be regulator. Either way the 2 boards and chip can be tested independently and go from there.
You can use a 9V alkaline battery for a basic test. Transformer needs to be a close to a Pure Sine wave type NOT Lionel CW-80, and you need to follow instructions. Voltage less than 10V when coming out of reset for first time. G
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