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 OK, how do I proceed without bashing?

 I got a set for the grandkids for Christmas and it has had some troubles. First the switch for DCS was not covered in the book. Then, the tether was not shown for people on how to attach so that the ground wire stays in contact. the engine would stop and loose communications. Now the very next day, they tell me that the track is so rough, that the front wheels of the engine keep jumping off??

 I'm considering buying wider real trax curves to lesson the tough time the engine and cars are having going around. When I looked at the track joints, they seemed so rough that the wheels jumping made sense. So, do I add a tougher spring to the wheels to make them track??

 or...........should I jump brands and try "fast track" or which appears smoother??

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Hi Joe,

 

Quick fix... get some gargraves track pins and insert them in the RealTrax.  Two pins in each rail makes an OK fit.  It's not perfect, but it will make a bad joint a lot closer.

 

Long term fix...  Find the offending pieces that don't match well with others and send them to MTH for replacement.  They shouldn't mate that poorly and most of the newer "hollow" rail RealTrax has been pretty good on alignment.

 

If you decide to change track brands it's always easier to do sooner rather than later.  Once you invest in switches it gets harder to change coarse.

 

Sorry to hear you're having trouble.

Hey Joe,

Seems I'm mimicking some of your grandkids experiences with the MTH starter set   When setting up some of my new realtrax sections, I noticed that they were "floating" in several places, with the plastic road bed not laying flat.  Not thinking much about it I tried to push the track down in spots...some it helped some not as much.

 

What I noticed later was that I believe the rails extend a hair too much on several sections of the newest realtrax causing the rail tips to bind and not let the road bed rest flat.  Pushing down in spots caused the hollow rail ends from one section to the next to 'mushroom' a bit, letting the track lay flatter in some sections but making for rough transitions at the mushrooming tips.  I'm hoping some needle nose pliers and a light filing will make it better, but it's still a bummer QC issue I suspect.

 

I have an oval of older solid rail realtrax that seems to have less overhang on the railtips, not alot but enough to keep them from binding, and for whatever reason my O42 curve pieces did not seem to have this issue as much as the 10" straights.

Robert

 

 

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