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I still have a couple of PS-1 engines on one of my tracks. With the DCS remote, to start I select the track and hit PS-1, it gives a few seconds at high voltage then drops to a low voltage and then the PS-1  train is started and ready to run.

I was looking at installing LED 12 volt light strips in the passenger cars to replace the bulbs that draw high amps.

The lights should be fine when the train is running as the train does not run at much more then about 10 volts or it is really flying along. 12 volts would be too fast.

 

 I do not have an accurate meter handy; what is the high voltage that the DCS starts at when you hit the PS-1 button?? Did not see it listed in Barry's book or the MTH book on DCS??

What is the minimum voltage required to start a PS-1 engine?? and if in the Track set up mode I set the the max volts does the PS-1 button not exceed this start up voltage??

 

I was hoping I could get away with wiring up the passenger cars with the 12 volt LED light strips through a bridge rectifier to keep it simple at about 10 volts the train runs fine and lights look good!

But I do not want to blow the LED light strips if I hit PS-1 and it jumps to too high a voltage.

 

I should note that many many years back I wired one long set of passenger cars with Silhouette windows

that I run with a PS-1 engine with LED christmas lights, just 4 bulbs cut from the string, bridge rectifier and 300 ohm resistor and they still work fine when I hit the PS-1 button. Has worked many years very well.

 

The other train I have I have the clear windows with passengers so the long roll of LED light strips with peel and stick backing works very well for a neat good looking installation, but max volts is 12 and if I wire it to handle a really high starting voltage of say 20 volts and then lower volts to running power of about 10 volts they get too dim!

Last edited by kj356
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Install a CV circuit in the passenger cars. Either use a voltage regulator or the CL2 n3 chip circuit. For DCS install also a choke. See "caboose lighting" and other appropriate posts here if interested.

 

 http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/Bl...tegoryMain?catId=426

 

You can also wire the lighting strip groups (They are grouped 3 in series) in series of 2,that would cut voltage in half. 

 

A Ps1 engines starts around 6 volts depending on the model. 

 

A PS2 starts in conventional around 8 volts.

 

Dale H

LED's are not light bulbs. They are diodes that emmit light in response to the current that flows through them, the more current the more light. Since they are not light bulbs they do not respond like light bulbs, that is they do not dim significantly when the voltage drops and they do not blow at a slight over voltage. The brightness will vary with voltage but not to the extent that light bulbs do. I have found that an LED with a 1000 ohm resister in series will give adequate operation over a 5 to 18 volt operating range without objectional dimming. If you buy your LED's in a setup that has a specified voltage they usually have a resistor that is set to put the max amount of current, or close to it, through the LED at the specified voltage. If the voltage is 12 volts and the current is assumed to be about 20ma then the supplied resistance is about 600 ohms. I would simply add a 600 ohm resistor in series with the strip and see what it does at track voltage. Will it dim as you turn down the track voltage? Sure, but so do blubs. Yes you can add all manner of regulators to minimise this dimming but is it really that objectional. These are toy trains.

 

Al

Originally Posted by HOSO&NZ:

Will it dim as you turn down the track voltage? Sure, but so do blubs. Yes you can add all manner of regulators to minimise this dimming but is it really that objectional. These are toy trains.

 

Al

No offense, but some like to have constant intensity lighting without flickering and dimming.  That's why they make chocolate and vanilla flavors.

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